New M1009 Owner Needs help with Manual Push Button for GP, Electric Fuel Pump, Filter

[slik50]

I was looking for some guidance on how to best wire up a push button for my glow plugs so that i can start this thing in the northern IL cold this winter. I've heard its not too hard and that I need to run 1 wire from switch to battery and the other from switch to solenoid so that I can hold it in longer to generate heat. I was also told I simply just need to remove the GP controller card located on the steering column in order to turn that function off. Also, I was told there was something else I needed to do in order to prevent use of 24v should the 12v not be available. Does this sound right? I was told the 24v would cause the GPs to potentially swell but that with just the 12v it would not happen.

If anyone knows of steps they used with a video and or pictures, a link would be great!

Thanks for the help! Just trying to get this thing ready for winter and new to the diesel world as well.

I was also told to change out the manual fuel pump with an electric one. Any help there would be great as well! mounting, location, wiring.

I was also told the fuel filters on these things are issues. Is there a mounting kit/fuel filter replacement that most people out there are using?


Thanks!

Justin (slik50)

 

[tgtaylor64]

Welcome to the CUCV world Justin. You will find a wealth of information on this site and all of your questions answered. Much of this has been covered before. Just learn to use the search function and get either e or paper copies of the Technical Manuals (TMs).

You can certainly do everything your buddy told you to do. The only one I see some real benefit with is also one of the fastest (15 m), cheapest (ziltch), and actually improves on the CUCV electrical design. By-pass the resistor bank on the firewall to help prevent cascade failure of the GP system.

A properly operating CUCV will not have issues with starting in the cold. That GP controller board logic was quite advanced for the mid 80s and still works today. It knows precisely how long to heat the GPs based on several inputs prior to starting and during the after glow period.

Learn the system. You will be hard pressed to find a more robust or simple system. However, you will find people trying to make them work like a Honda or other modern vehicle. You will spend money, bust knuckles, and never get ahead of the curve.

Again, welcome and enjoy Private!

 

[gungearz]

Welcome to steel soldiers.... We would like to invite you to come down and join our convoy out to the Steel Soldiers Haspin Rally on October 19th. We might have a few soldiers coming from your direction (naperville and aurora) that you can team up with on your way to join in on the convoy. You can find the information on the haspin rally thread posted in the forum section under upcoming rallies. It will be a blast for everyone...

 

[slik50]

I hear there are a few different ways to help cold starting w an m1009. How do I by-pass this relay? -pi was told that you can also by-pass the gp controller in order to allow them to get hotter. wfew guys tell me they are junk. Some way to allow 12v but not over charge them w the 24v??
Thanks! Any recommended pics or diagram directions would also be helpful. I'm told I could find this under technical diagrams?

 

[forest522]

Welcome to SS! In response to you question I'll echo tgtaylor that the GP Controller/card is a very robust design when it is functioning properly. I strongly encourage you to consider getting a new GP card (CUCV electric or other) and follow the troubleshooting guide instructions. Not only will the system operate as designed without much worry, it will also give you a much better understanding of your rig. The CUCV electric guide to the GP system is worth every penny!!

I removed my push button, installed by previous owner, and repaired the wiring and reinstalled a new GP controller card. Runs like a champ!

Good luck and enjoy, Cheers!.

 

[Skinny]

Not sure why people feel the urge to slap an electric pump on or a manual GP button. Unless you are modding something, there is no need for it. It works great in stock form. I will be adding a manual GP button in addition to my GP controller in case it fails.

Congrats on your purchase!

 

[slik50]

So, stay with this GP Controller? Where do I buy a new one at? Not sure if this is a NAPA thing and how much they cost. Is there an upgraded version from the originals? What do I do with the relay? Bypass, replace? I hear to also replace that as well. Thoughts?

Just trying to get some direction as I've heard some different things and I really don't want to get stuck in a Chicago cold winter.

thx everyone!

Justin

 

[slik50]

Skinny, how would I do that? is that just installing a push button and wiring up to the relay and leaving the gp controller card installed?

 

[Glockamolie]

So, stay with this GP Controller? Where do I buy a new one at? Not sure if this is a NAPA thing and how much they cost. Is there an upgraded version from the originals?
Justin

As stated, CUCVelectric is one good source for these. I see that their website is under (re)construction right now.

As for an electic pump, I used the Airtex E3158 from a 1993 K3500 truck 6.2 diesel (about $50 from rockauto.com). More Information for AIRTEX E3158 I used a Fram G3 filter before it. I was planning on wiring up a switch, but after I used it the first time (my truck arrived with no filter and fluids drained) to prime the system, I haven't used it since. I put the ground wire on the frame where I mounted the pump, and ran an external wire directly to the battery temporarily to prime the system. I didn't remove the stock mechanical pump. I much preferred using the electric pump to prime from dead, as I would have heavily used 2 new batteries and put some serious strain on the starter trying to prime the system. I may eventually wire a switch.

 

[85CUCVtom]

As for your fuel filter, I would do the spin on conversion. There are a bunch of threads on here with information on how to do it. All this can be found using the search function. This thread is pretty good: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/36435-my-cucv-spin-fuel-filter-mod.html

 

[slik50]

Thanks guys for the info around the push button start, gp controller and relay info. I'm trying to browse more via the search around the different options around this. Any one else have an opinion or additional details around it or how to heat these glow plugs more or push fuel quicker to the cylinders? What worked for you? Do I rid the gp controller under the dash? Local guy in area i ran into about a month back though I can't seem to find now removed it and says he doesn't have any problems in cold chicago winters. He removed this gp controller card and wired up a push button switch, added an electric fuel pump and updated the fuel filter.

My truck will be sitting for probably 3-5 days between starts possibly and I've noticed it is pretty hard to start in 50 degrees or below. It starts ok in 70s and above when sitting for 3-5 days. It currently even has a garage but I plan to or would like to leave it outside during some cold chicago winter nights.

Thanks for the help guys! I'm just trying to gather as much info before I choose a direction and its already starting to get cold here...thus she's getting harder to start.

 

[slik50]

Thanks 85CUCVtom and Glockamolie for the spin on fuel filter mod and electric fuel pump info. I have a few more questions around that. I've seen an electric fuel pump installed back by the fuel tank to PUSH fuel and help with the mechanical which I hear has problems on the M1009s especially if the truck will be sitting for 3-5 days or more at a time. Would it make sense to install one back by the fuel tank along with a fuel filter before it by relocating it? I know the following post I see someone did this but wasn't sure if it makes sense for a M1009 being its not in the tank? Electric fuel pump plumbing question

 

[slik50]

Sorry guys. postings duplicated.

 

[tgtaylor64]

Hard starting? Invest in a decent multimeter and some alligator clips. Make sure your batteries are good, i.e., have the local auto shop LOAD test them. Then, clip the negative lead to ground and the positive lead to the output side (lower) of the GP relay. Place your meter on the wipers so you can see it from inside the truck. Turn the key and monitor the DC voltage while the WAIT light is on. You should see between 10 to 12.5 VDC. If so, then your GP system is operating correctly. If it is higher than this, your GP resistor is starting to fail and you should by-pass it. Simply cut or take off the output side wire (drivers side) as close to the resistor as possible. Then, crimp on a connector and connect it to the diamond plastic 12VDC block directly above the GP relay. Now, the relay will only feed ~12 VDC to your GP. Any voltage above 13 or so will cause them to fail. A new set will cost you about $80 and take 30 m to an hour to install. You can test your GPs by disconnecting the green wires and turning your multimeter to ohms (resistance). Touch the negative wire to the metal base (or silver body) and the positive lead to the silver connector. If the resistance is <0.9 ohms, then they need replacing. New GPs and a properly functioning GP system will start a 6.2 within a second regardless of ambient temperature!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

slik, a GP bypass switch will get you running if your GP card fails. Because of that, it will also cover up problems with your GP card. For some people, covering up a problem is as good as solving it. Some of us prefer to solve problems.

That may be why some people say to remove your GP card and go with a switch, and others say to fix the GP card properly, and some say to fix the card but install a switch just in case the card suddenly fails.

One mod that just about everyone agrees on is the doghead starter relay mod. You can find info on it at the top of the forum. It's one of the stickies.

 

[Glockamolie]

Thanks 85CUCVtom and Glockamolie for the spin on fuel filter mod and electric fuel pump info. I have a few more questions around that. I've seen an electric fuel pump installed back by the fuel tank to PUSH fuel and help with the mechanical which I hear has problems on the M1009s especially if the truck will be sitting for 3-5 days or more at a time. Would it make sense to install one back by the fuel tank along with a fuel filter before it by relocating it? I know the following post I see someone did this but wasn't sure if it makes sense for a M1009 being its not in the tank? Electric fuel pump plumbing question

My electric pump is mounted towards the rear (near the rear of the passenger door area, inside the fram where there's already a section of rubber line), with the Fram G3 filter before it. I wouldn't use just that filter for the whole system. I'd either maintain the original system under the hood as well, or convert it to the spin-on style. I don't think the single G3 is adequate for the whole system. And you need a way to drain water from the fuel as well.

 

[slik50]

Thanks tgtaylor and marcus. Sounds like everyone is in agreement with the starter relay replacement by doghead that stickies posted. ill plan on that upgrade change. Tgtaylor where is this resistor your talking about? also as a backup think installing a push button to bypass gp card sounds like a good option. I wire switch to? This sounds like quick add or more insurance she will start. anymore input or thoughts around installing am electric fuel pump and filter back by fuel tank or just upgrade up front w spin on fuel filter? load tests on batteries showed good forever I'm skeptical on 1 as it looks old so still might replace that. Cranking though seems fine with truck and I eventually smell fuel...just dont think I'm getting the heat necessary. I did also put in all new ac delco glow plugs. Thanks

 

[slik50]

Also I didn't see any part numbers for a fuel filter conversion plate if there is one?

 

[Skinny]

Search for my threads if you want a Stanadyne FM100 filter setup. If you want a Napa base, someone has a thread on that as well.

You are looking for the blue wire going into the GP controller. Wire this to ground through a momentary contact switch. This will override the controller for glow plug operation.

As with most of these rigs, new owners should really just pony up for two new batteries and alternator rebuilds just for good measure.

 

[slik50]

Thanks Skinny. I'll run a wire to the terminal with the blue wire on the gp controller. That Stanadyne FM100 filter seems like a nice way to go though a bit more pricey.