New M211 Member

[SturmTyger380]

The flexible pipe that carries the air from the filter to the carburetor air horn. It cracked in two parts.

I took the carburetor off today. I found another good reason to not try and start old stuff before you look into stuff. The air line fitting for the compressor was totally clogged with dirt from dirt dobber bees. If I had tried to start it all that dirt might have gotten sucked into the compressor. Dirt and rings don't go well together.

Oh also the water drain plug to the transmission is stuck. So i guess I will be fixing that next.

 

[Gunfreak25]

YES! I know some folks like to jump right in and turn the key on something that's been sitting for so many years. I had my 6.2 motor a year and come start up day I decided to pull the intake and check for obstructions. Found hardware sitting ontop of the intake valves ready to be sucked into the engine.

 

[YkDave]

Mmmmmm yummy hardware for it to chew on! LOL

yes, its always a good idea to take at least a quick look over things before you just jump in and flash it up, you never know whats been living in the engine bay over the years...

 

[SturmTyger380]

Ok I lost the second battle of the transmisson drain plug.

The 1/2 inch driver did not work so today I went by Sears and bought the largest hex wrench they had. I took it home and used the grinder on it to make it fit really snug on the square female plug. No luck. Just bent the pipe I was using and made the plug hole a little less square.

I guess the next step is to weld a bolt into the hole of the drain plug. Anyone have any pointers on this?

Thanks, Alan

 

[YkDave]

weld whatever you want to the plug, let it cool completely, warm up the surrounding case with a torch, hit your plug/contraption with ice and give it a try.

The heat cycle from the welding may loosen it up, if not, expanding the case around the plug is surely going to help the situation

But, whatever you do, dont try and break the plug loose when the plug is hot(ie just after welding), its only going to make matters worse!

 

[SturmTyger380]

Things I have got done so far:

Drained the transmission oil and water.
Drained the Taurus, cleaned the rust off of the flywheel teeth and added a light coating of grease.
Drained all the coolant from the engine and radiator.
Drained the engine oil.
Took the carburetor off to rebuilt it.
Removed the transmission cooler cover and found tons of sludge.

The list of things to do keeps growing.

This is why I love this hobby.

Oh and I went to look at an M35A1 today that runs. Crap!

Alan

 

[SturmTyger380]

I was working on the M211 on Sat and was checking out the coolant line that runs from the water pump to the transmission oil cooler. Up near the water pump it was paper thin! So I went to try and get it off and the pipe could not be saved.

Anyone ever get this pipe with the big flair fittings and the one lower down that goes to the cooler remade?

Any source for these?

Thanks, Alan

 

[topo]

I had bought Aeroquip ends and hose when replacing the coolant lines on my truck .

 

[hendersond]

Check Alfa Heaven in Aniwa, WI.
I unthreaded the fitting from the waterpump, added an elbow and a short piece of pipe. Then cut the steeline and connected them with a short heater hose and hose clamps. Works so far.

 

[SturmTyger380]

I like the idea of flexible hose. Getting the old one off was a pain in the *** and I ended up cutting it off of the lower hose. Since I was replacing the top one I figure to replace the bottom one too. Going back in with a flexible one would be easier. I am not going for a show points winner here.

 

[SturmTyger380]

Well I went by the local hydraulic line company after work. They claim to have every hose. But they did not have a flexible line that had the flair type ends and could not make one. They could make the same as the original metal hard lines. So unless I change my fittings I might have to go back with hard metal lines. So Topo did you change your fittings?

Got home and had to do something to the truck. I got the air cleaner bottom off and it had oil in it, that is good. But it had tons of these small seeds everywhere. So I had to take the whole assembly off of the firewall to clean it out good.

I still have not been able to get the air horn off of the old Zenith carburetor. I have the four main screws out and have been prying on the seam some but don't want to break anything. Anyone have any tips for separating the air horn from the main body?

 

[Gunfreak25]

Mine was full of seeds too, the pan had dead bugs in it as well. Vortox makes new oil bath cleaners for farm tractors and I would love to put one on the GMC to work with the 6.2's flow requirements.

 

[topo]

I did change the ends . It's been almost ten years .

 

[SturmTyger380]

Anyone ever see a pre-cleaner mounted on the intake of the air cleaner? Other MVs I have seen have one. All I see is the flange for I guess attaching the fording pipe to the air cleaner. If it had has a pre-cleaner it would have kept the sycamore balls out of the air cleaner that some mouse must have dragged up there.

On the muffler I have it taken all apart now and will measure and post the pictures. I was thinking of getting United Muffler to make a custom version as they say they will make mufflers. They seem to limit the sizes of their custom work. But I might see what they say. Otherwise I will have to make one.

 

[butch atkins]

Hendersond did it same way I did.just make sure the ends of the steel lines are supported really well so they don't vibrate the rubber spliced places .my repair like this was still working untill water pump failure.the brass fitting in the water pump is a specialty item,I killed it by over tightening it.

 

[SturmTyger380]

Dang am I having a stupid stretch. I was still trying to get the carburetor apart and my Father in-law had one he bought somewhere that does not fit anything he has. He brought it over and I took one look at the top and dumb, I missed the 5th center screw that holds the air horn on. It was covered with paint an junk.

 

[hendersond]

Pre-cleaner? I never thought of that. Good Idea!

 

[SturmTyger380]

I wanted to get the truck started before winter and I still might be able to get that done. Other things keep getting in the way.

But I did get her under cover for winter. She barely fits inside!!!

Oh and you can see the pile of junk that I scooped up out of the bed.

 

[SturmTyger380]

Ok, I am rebuilding the carburetor on my M211. I have an NOS rebuilding kit. I cleaned the carb up and doing the reassemble. The new idle screws are a brass where the old ones where steel. I put the new ones in just to see how they fit and I guess trying to seat them and back them out, I over tightened one and one of the tips of the screws broke off in the hole.

I took the smallest drill bit I have which is really small cause I used to do model trains. I tested it on the side of the carb where the hole was open and it fit through the hole easy. So I knew it was less that the diameter of the hole with the stuck tip. So I carefully drilled out the tip. I got it all out but it looks like the hole on that side is a tiny bit larger.

I put both idle screws in and blew some air down the idle circuit hole and it might be my imagination that there is a little more air coming out of the hole I had to drill out.

My question is if the hole is a tiny bit out of round will that affect the idle or will it not make a difference?

 

[m1010plowboy]

Idle Screw OVER-TIGHTEN No-No

I don't care how much a guy reads, there are still daily lessons happening that re-open my eyes.

So our lesson for the day Sturm is DO NOT tighten idle screws EVER? I remember my big mitted Irish Dad teaching that lesson while I was working on a go-cart. He'd say it once then hover while I was doing the work and ensure his voice was heard when I failed. Not sure if it's the best way to teach but I only messed up one carb and never forgot the lesson.

It's worth the reassembly to try it. With low fuel pressure your by-pass might not be noticeable. BUTT, from the RC, Ski-doo and odd Rochester or Holley I've repaired........It doesn't take much for things to not work correctly. No worries man, we can find a carb if it's bad.

Where did you get the carb kit? Part number and sources will help us greatly.

Let us know how it go.