New M35A3 Questions

[Skycop]

Hey guys, I just wanted to tell you that you have a great website. I work for the City of New Braunfels here in Texas. We have had an M35A2 for quite some time that we got from DRMO. The old Deuce was a 66 model, and I have gotten it running and working again, although I recently was able to acquire a M35A3 from DRMO. Our older Deuce will be given to a local Fire Dept to turn into a brush fire truck. The new truck, however, I have some questions and wanted to tap into the vast knowledge of the forums here. So here it goes:

#1 The starter solenoid is sticking on the new truck. Does anyone know what brand of starter this is and where I can find a rebuilt one, or a place to rebuild the current one that we have?

#2 The CTIS is not working. From what I hear, this is a good thing, however, due to the conditions that we have, I would like to see about getting it operable. Does anyone have any experience with these systems? There is no power to the control panel above the steering wheel and I would like to start simple and move to more complex solutions.

#3 Air pressure gauge indication. When the truck starts up, the air compressor kicks on and the air pressure builds without any issue. However, when I was driving it around a bit, I noticed the air pressure gauge would fluctuate wildly sometimes from the normal operating pressure, down to 60psi (to make the light and buzzer indicate briefly) and then right back up to 120 psi almost instantly. Any thoughts or solutions?

Overall the truck is in GREAT shape, but these are the known minor defficiencies. We will soon be converting the soft top cab to a hard top (got to love the local Nat Guard guys). Does anyone know if the A2 hard top will fit the A3? I think it will.

Anyway, thanks for your time. We will be using the truck for swiftwater rescue as we are a flood prone area. Thanks again.

 

[Floridianson]

Top is a go and the CTIS. Under the truck see if air line is hooked up. If done right it is there waiting to be pluged in. In board tank top side, take out plug and push in hose. Power look on top of the unit that is under the truck there should be two lines the need to be pluged in. One has two lines one has one.
You can check the battery box to see if the power line is hooked up.
Doube check your rubber boots when in high water. After high water use at least check to see if you have water in your boots. There are four bolts that hold the bottom cap on knuckle, take out the forward inside bolt and if there is water it will come out as these bolts are taped all the way through.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Welcome Skycop! I have a couple of ideas about the A3. First of all,lets talk compensation.If any of these ideas are correct,you must load up that A3 with a bed full of sunshine and bring it up here.I can send you back with plenty of beer cooling material.

What exactly is the starter doing. Does it stick when it is engaged or before it engages? Mine occasionally doesn't engage.I haven't investigated that yet.

The air pressure could be fluctuating from the air assist power steering.The air cylinders have a tendency to corrode and leak air.With the trucks air system charged up,shut the truck off and turn the wheel.You shouldn't hear any air bypassing.You should only hear air being exhausted when you steer the opposite direction.

You say that the CTIS panel does not work. First thing to check is the plug just behind it.When the gov disables it,they sometimes unplug the power to it.Someone else here had a problem with no power.Maybe they will know more.

Hope that helps a little.

 

[Skycop]

Thanks for the prompt responses...I expected nothing less

As far as the starter, all I know is the battery/master switch is turned on, my low air horn and light start going off like crazy. When I turn the start switch = nothing happens. I looked on the starter and found hammer marks on the solenoid. Guess whomever had been working on it figured it was a stuck one. The shipper told me the DRMO rep had some trouble getting it started due to the problem mentioned above, but a couple of good whacks and it cranked right over.

I know when I first started it after it arrived it did the same thing, but after about 2-3 tries (turns of the switch) it fired right up. Today = nothing. I even tried banging on the starter. The **** buzzer is to loud for me to hear if the solenoid is clicking or not, but I will try and get some help tomorrow to see.

As far as the CTIS, I looked on the back of the control panel and all of the plugs appear to be in correctly. I will crawl underneath and check everything else out as mentioned in Floridianson's post (if I deciphered it correctly).

When the vehicle is sole/xferred at DRMO do they intentionally disable the CTIS? Is it worth the upkeep on it? I have read alot of posts on here about disabling the CTIS, but it seems like a nice feature to have if the vehicle sits for any amount of time. If I don't disable the lines, would I be able to inflate from the air check and glad hand connection hose that I found with our old -A2? Just weighing the options.

As far as the power/air steering, I will take a look at it once I am able to start the old girl! Thanks and keep things coming! I would love to hear about pros and cons regarding the CTIS....from people who have worked with them or own them.

 

[m16ty]

I honestly can't think of a reason your City would need the CTIS. It's more likely to have flats from sitting for long periods with the CTIS operating.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

CTIS was disabled on my truck when I got it.I am slowly gathering parts to try getting it going again.Yes you can fill the tires from the valve stem on the regulator.In fact,if your tire goes flat,you must manually fill the tire to at least 10? psi before the CTIS will take over.Does your truck have all of the CTIS stuff on the wheels still?

 

[DUECE-COUPE]

as for the starter, it is a standard military starter just like the deuce and the 5 ton 800 and 900 trucks. the 900 starter has an insert in the bolt holes where it meets the bell housing. drive em out and put it in

 

[DUECE-COUPE]

as fro the CTIS, the OMS shops disable them if they star to fail to keep them from recovering trucks with flats

 

[colin455]

The banging on the starter is an old trick. Generally means the Bendex is sticking or worn out. Usually only works a couple of times. Generally reserved for getting you home or to the shop for a new starter. In the past I've replaced the solenoid only to have it fail again in a couple of weeks.

 

[Skycop]

M16ty: Now that I am in charge of the ole' girl she won't sit for a long time...that for sure. The old M35A2 we drive once a week and long enough to get operating temps up. I found out the hard way with aircraft (and any other piece of mechanical equipment) that if you let them sit, they will rot and not be reliable.

Monkeyboy: Yup, it looks like all of the guts for the CTIS are still there AND associated plumbing etc.

DEUCE-COUPE: Is it worth getting the CTIS up and running again, or is it worth the hassle? As far as the starter goes, where can I get a new/rebuilt one from? You will have to excuse me, as I don't know all of the lingo yet with the trucks and forums here, but the 800-900 series are the starter series, correct? So theoretically, if know some guys at the armory I would be able to go down and swap out my current starter on the CAT engine with the old Kaiser series dueces they have rotting out back?

colin455: I had an old 64 Ford Falcon that this trick worked on a couple of times when I was stranded as well. I know I will have to replace it, just trying to find out where. I will advise about the clicking noise when I try to start today.

 

[Floridianson]

I am in the middle of trying to replace the front bearing as I went mudding and trashed the right front. There I found the O rings trashed. I am going to put the old style bearings back in and do away with the CTIS system. When I get done and the parts are on the ground they will be up for grabs.

 

[Skycop]

No need to even ask....... YES!

 

[saddamsnightmare]

February 12th, 2010.

Skycop:

The air brake buzzer may be going off at low speeds if you have an Air-o-Matic steering (Air assisted steering) unit as it can outrun the air supply at low RPMs and set the buzzer off. CTIS, you're on your own, as I have no experience whatsoever with it, but other members do. Starter Solenoid: Frequent Problem, either remove or have your machanic remove the starter assembly complete to get the starter model and makers numbers, then contact White Owl Parts, Memphis Equipment or possibly Desert Deuce. The first two can provide you just the solenoid, which is starter maker/model specific, or a complete new starter. White Owl will charge about $325.00 plus shipping, no return on the old starter (but you can have it rebuilt loacally as a spare, check industrial/truck starter/alternaor shops). When the ambient temperature gets below freezing, there are two contacts that must close on the starter solenoid to energize and throw the starter bendix into mesh, due to mechanical wear on the contacts these are not closing and your truck is not cranking.
My M35A2 has the same problem and is awaiting me getting the money to do the replacement, last three days have been consistently below freezing in the morning and I have gotten 3 out of 3 starts....Unheard of! I wonder what's gotten into here as she would never start before then under those conditions.....?????
Good luck on you truck, and the repairs...

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[Skycop]

Ok, we we took a look at the truck and this is what we discovered:

Starter: Starter works fine if you use a screwdriver to connect the poles. Starts like a champ. The mechanic believes that it may be in the wiring from the switch to the starter as the switch in the cab tested ok. Anything else? Do the A3's have a neutral only starting switch or brake switch that might be out/bad? Again, just trying to find simple solutions or is it in the solenoid? BTW, when you try and engage the starter from the cab....nada. No sound, clicking noise (at the starter) or anything else.

Air leak: I think what Kyle has said in the previous post is probably going to be the case with the AAS. It was the fuel gauge that was bouncing around, the air just went low when idling around like that in the back parking lot of the PD. I will keep you posted.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

There is a neutral safety switch.Two sets of wires go down to the trans.Neutral safety and back up lights.back up lights use a pressure switch on the side of the trans.The neutral safety is on the control lever.Just unplug the two wires and jumper them together to see if it will start.

 

[M813A1]

one thing to check is the glad hand valves on the back of your truck make sure they are closed ,because if they are open and your gladhand covers are off iot will exhaust your air supply very quickly when you apply the brakes !! you can do this with the engine off and the air supply full then hit the brakes and listen for the air escaping !!

 

[rwoods]

Air leak: Unfortunately, these trucks are so noisy it is hard to listen for an air leak but to some extent you can do this by builting the pressure up and shutting off the engine. If you hear a hissing around the driver's side fender, it is probably the air regulator for the steering. My A3 leaked there probably as a result of little use. A little lubrication of the seal was all mine needed.

 

[Skycop]

There is a neutral safety switch.Two sets of wires go down to the trans.Neutral safety and back up lights.back up lights use a pressure switch on the side of the trans.The neutral safety is on the control lever.Just unplug the two wires and jumper them together to see if it will start.

I don't mean to sound ignorant on this, but the wires...where do they run from and to and how can I find them? I know the back up lights work just fine as I used them when we unloaded the truck (so much nicer than the A2!). I would like to explore the neutral switch a bit more in depth, however. Thanks again.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

February 13th, 2010.

Skycop:

If the A3 has AAS, that would probably be part of the problem in regards to air usage, but it could be air pack seals and even drain valves and glad hand valves not set right (closed fully). My truck when it came from its last owner would not hold a charge on the air system more then 2 or 3 hours, but as she got used more, apparently seals settled down and now she'll go 6-8-10 hours on an air charge, not dropping below 60PSI shut down in that span of time.
You can get the starter solenoids for about $65.00 + shipping from White Owl (NOS), or Memphis Equipment, or even Boyce Equipment up in Utah. Again, mines been giving me 100% starts in the cold and snow we've had lately, when she normally won't start below 32-33*F. I think the gremlin went to Cancun for the cold weather....! I was not familar with the safety switches and backup light circuits as the M35A2 has none of that. Good luck on the repairs, drive safely...and put a set of blue lights in the grill with a siren, you'll tick of the hopped up PU guys when you pullthem over with a deuce..... It would ruin their rep with their friends!


Cheers,
Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[Skycop]

Oh it will have lights when we are finished......mechanical first, cosmetics second