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New Member with M211

USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
That is my understanding as well. The master cylinder I am replacing on my truck had a check valve in it. One off of a parts truck did not have one.

The airpak does have a check valve and it was the seal in front of that, that was bad on mine. Not sure if it is because of doubled up check valves or not. Everything else looked near new.

I am going to go back with no check valve in the master.
 
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hambone

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Finally back working my truck, the question I have is, should I adjust my brake shoes before I put the axle back in? If not, how many wheels will I have to jack up to get them to turn freely? I went ahead and stuck the axle back before thinking I couldn't turn the hubs with it in.
IMG_0436.jpg
 

Section8

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Little Fort, B.C., Canada
Good thing the check valve issue was addressed. I was told by an old codger here a while ago that the M35 master cylinder has an internal check valve and would not work with my M135. Said it would cause the system to preasurize and not release. If a person continued to pump the brakes to get them to release or figure out what was going on it could cause the brake shoe cylinders to blow.
If it were my rebuild I would back the brakes off to free wheel before axle reinstallation. Then you only have to crawl under the truck just to set the shoes for braking and. Not back them off and then set them.
Of course if you have a younger soldier at the house helping you out that's always a bonus!! LoL!
 

USMC 00-08

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Location
Skiatook, OK
Finally back working my truck, the question I have is, should I adjust my brake shoes before I put the axle back in? If not, how many wheels will I have to jack up to get them to turn freely? I went ahead and stuck the axle back before thinking I couldn't turn the hubs with it in.
I adjusted mine with the wheels on after I had assembled everything. Just jacked up one axle at a time and both wheels turned freely. Worked well for me.

Good thing the check valve issue was addressed. I was told by an old codger here a while ago that the M35 master cylinder has an internal check valve and would not work with my M135. Said it would cause the system to preasurize and not release. If a person continued to pump the brakes to get them to release or figure out what was going on it could cause the brake shoe cylinders to blow.
I am pretty sure this was the issue with my new wheel cylinder leaking problem a while back. The master cylinder that was on the truck had the check valve too. I bought a new master cylinder, removed the check valve, rebuilt the airpak and it has been working great with no leaks. It appears that the M35 and M135 master are the same except for the check valve which is easily added/removed.
 

hambone

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El Dorado, Ar
Thanks guys, is it possible to get the master cyl. brake line bolt at the parts house? the one in my airpak has been crossed threaded in the past, I ran a 1/2-20 tap in the airpak, it cleaned up, now I just need a new bolt, it's the same one as in the master cyl.
IMG_0437.jpg
 

USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
Found one. PM sent.

100_2809.jpg

It would be neat to find out if this is something commonly available at the part store so we could add it to our parts list.
 

hambone

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El Dorado, Ar
I thought at one point I could repair my muffler but it is beyond repair, is there a muffler out there that would be a good starting point for modification? Thanks, Hambone
 

USMC 00-08

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Skiatook, OK
You might visit with m1010plowboy. I think he was working on having some new mufflers made. Not sure where he is at on that right now.
 

m1010plowboy

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Talk is cheap so I wanted to have it in my hands with pictures before I send any hope out there. The first one is big doe so getting the problems out of the way, properly tuned and sounding correct without the big bang noise is first. Drilling a hole in a muffler to vent 302 gas seems to be a ridiculous requirement but the old GMC can leak gas into the muffler and go booom. Hands up from those who poofed a muffler already!!

Setting a production cost in the manufacturers heart, not knowing exactly what the 'market' will bear, has been a challenge. I've got 3 guys up here helping finance the first 3 prototypes. The whole point is to make it feasible for the G749 teams. We found a max. $300.00 is what folks would tolerate spending. It doesn't leave any real 'profit' on the table for my Cole man unless we produce hundreds of mufflers. ........"cupid, not stupid" is the term he's using. We're in it for the love of MV's and just need to break-even...hopefully. It's a hobby, not a business so love takes time I'm finding.

That cheap talk out of the way, the muffler man is getting me the 'silence box' by mid May. pics at 11.
 

USMC 00-08

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Location
Skiatook, OK
. Drilling a hole in a muffler to vent 302 gas seems to be a ridiculous requirement but the old GMC can leak gas into the muffler and go booom. Hands up from those who poofed a muffler already!!
I have done that and it is why my current muffler is hollow. I had to have the end welded back on.

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Where is the hole supposed to be to vent the gas?
 

m1010plowboy

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hambone

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El Dorado, Ar
Went to pick up a couple of 1942 Ford GPW bodies I found at a steal, I was telling him I had a M211, he said he had something to give me, he said it was a distributor for a GMC, I haven't been to the shop to verify against mine, never know what will pop up.:grin:
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IMG_0484.jpg
 

hambone

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Location
El Dorado, Ar
Is that the old wheel assembly that you're replacing. or is that the "new" assembly?
AA, this is what they all looked like when I removed the drums, been bead blasting the parts, freeing up the brake adjusters, checking bearing and seals, replacing wheel cyls. and anti-seizing all the bolts and nuts. Maybe they will last as long as I will need them.:lol:
 
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