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New MEP-003A owner & Genset newbie

SuperSecretSquirrel

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Location
Northern VA
Greetings all, first post here to the SS, but been reading for a while.

I just got a MEP-003A off of GL (Libby - 1,900 hrs) and am just getting into the generator world. I'm DIY smart on electrical repair, but not schooled, so this is a big leap.

I'm wondering, to start with, if any of you old hands can recommend a starting list of what I need to read to "get smart" on my new tool.

It will ultimately be used to power the work site for my new home build, and on completion, I'm going to build it a little home (sound insulated) where it will serve as the backup/battery charger for said new home.

A good starting point would be a simple question. Where do I get batteries for this thing, and what type? IS there a good / better / best approach on the battery subject?

What other "duhh" things should I be looking for / at when I pick this up next week. (I still need to get the trailer it's gonna ride, will be aiming for a 101A this week.)

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!

Ben
 

Isaac-1

Well-known member
1,970
50
48
Location
SW, Louisiana
I don't have a MEP-003, (I have a MEP-701a along with other generators) I think most people on here are using common group 59 batteries wired in series to get 24V, in reality just about any pair of 12V automotive batteries wired in series to get 24 volt will work. (you always want matched pairs of the same age/lot #, otherwise during charging they will get out of balance and one will overcharge/overheat). We really need a sticky here with the common things to check when buying generators, etc. Many of these units have sat around for a long time often exposed to the weather. Here is a quick run down on some of the things you will want to check before trying to start:

Check the fuel tank, fuel lines / fuel filters (may be missing) it is better to catch the gunk before it gets it to the diesel injection pump/injectors, once started make sure your getting a trickle of return from the return fuel line (if you don't get fuel flow to the injection pump or the return line, check any elbow fittings they like to clog up with gunk while engines sit around).

Of course check and fill the oil (I think most people are using Rotella 15W40 HD diesel oil or similar), make sure hoses are good, drains closed, no water in the oil pan, etc.

Make sure there are no loose wires in the control box or output wiring before trying to start.

If you don't know how to bleed a diesel engine, read up online since it will be drained and likely need bleeding to start the first time.

I know you will be in a hurry to start it, but take the time to connect the generator frame to a ground rod first (there will be a grounding point on the frame probably marked "ground" to attach a ground lead), this could save your life if a live wire is grounding to the frame.

Never idle one of these generators (I know you have always been told to idle engines until they get warm, this i an exception), they are built start up and go right to 1800 rpms, running at slower speeds will kill the voltage regulator. If you want to be nice to it let it run at 1800 rpms for a couple of minutes to warm up before hitting it with heavy loads.

You have to hold the start switch in the crank position until the oil pressure comes up on these units, also if you don't get electricity once it is running you may need to flash the field, do this by turning the start switch back to the start position momentarily, there is a safety to keep the starter from trying to re-engage. If power comes up for just a moment then goes away you likely a problem with your voltage regulator (see above about not running at idle)

Ike

p.s. also never switch the voltage reconnection switch with the engine running, it would be BAD.
 
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pmramsey

Active member
463
190
43
Location
VA
Greetings all, first post here to the SS, but been reading for a while.

I just got a MEP-003A off of GL (Libby - 1,900 hrs) and am just getting into the generator world. I'm DIY smart on electrical repair, but not schooled, so this is a big leap.

I'm wondering, to start with, if any of you old hands can recommend a starting list of what I need to read to "get smart" on my new tool.

It will ultimately be used to power the work site for my new home build, and on completion, I'm going to build it a little home (sound insulated) where it will serve as the backup/battery charger for said new home.

A good starting point would be a simple question. Where do I get batteries for this thing, and what type? IS there a good / better / best approach on the battery subject?

What other "duhh" things should I be looking for / at when I pick this up next week. (I still need to get the trailer it's gonna ride, will be aiming for a 101A this week.)

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!

Ben
You are welcome to come visit me as I have several and we are in the middle of servicing them after the winter weather. I am located in Warrenton.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Welcome to Steel Soldiers, and Ditto on everything Isaac said, specially on never idleing the engine. The MEP-003A gensets are very reliable and work great for powering a home or shop and give you the option of single and three-phase power. I have mine connected to the house through an NOS Square-D 4-pole 400-amp manual transfer switch I got on E-bay for a cheap price. My genset is trailer mounted and I wanted to keep it that way so I ran cable through conduit to where I keep the trailer in the garage and have a pin and sleeve 100-amp connector to connect the genset to the house. It powers my house, including my geothermal heat pump, ovens, lights, etc. with no difficulty. Make sure you pay attention to the generator grounding. If you are connecting to the house, do not ground the generator separately. Run the generator ground to the house ground. The generator is supposed to take two 6TL batteries, but this is not necessary. Any two 12-volt batteries that will fit will work. I'm using two Exide Orbital batteries on mine. Check all electrical connections closely for loose connections. The heavy vibration will loosen connections.

The first thing to do concerning your MEP-003A is to read every post on Steel Soldiers regarding this genset. There is a significant wealth of information available on SS. Others have made mistakes, me included, and there is no reason for you to do the same. Enjoy your new genset.
 

LuckyDog

Member
394
11
18
Location
Freedom, NH
...We really need a sticky here with the common things to check when buying generators, etc. Many of these units have sat around for a long time often exposed to the weather. ...
Hey Ike,

I started a WIKI for the MEP002A & 003A (MEP 002A and 003A - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite)

Your suggestion of "common things to check when buying" (or starting for first time after you bought it) is a weak point in the wiki.

Can you write up some more along the lines of your prior post? I can put into the wiki and format it.
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Cambridge, Ohio
Welcome aboard. I have to agree with everything the guys above hae stated. With special emphasis on DO NOT be in a hurry to start it. Inspect the fuel lines and tank closely. Change the fuel filters...the WIKI article linked above has links to places selling the OEM filters. Make sure nothing has built a nest inside the fan shrouds or the air intake...that would be bad.

And as I have been telling all the generator newbies...I have spin-on oil filter adapters for sale in the classifieds of you would want to go that route.
 

Isaac-1

Well-known member
1,970
50
48
Location
SW, Louisiana
LuckyDog, I will give it a shot, the rest of this week is going to be a bit crazy for me, but I will try to find time before too long.

Ike
 

Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
Ditto on what everyone else has said. I purchased a mep 003a on GL at Fort Riley and did some checks when I got it home just a few weeks ago. . The fuel guage said empty, but there was still a few gallons of diesel in the tank, but it didnt look like diesel anymore, it was real yellow, slimy looking. Played it safe, pulled the tank, power washed with a steam cleaner and dried the inside with a hair dryer. The fuel strainer looked good, but can not say that about the two fuel filters. They were really rusted up. Ended getting the right fram fuel filters from Amazon. This was some of the experience that I had when I got the gen set home. Still thinking about speddmons spin on oil filter, maybe later as the wife says that ive been spending too much money lately.
 

SuperSecretSquirrel

New member
16
0
0
Location
Northern VA
Gentlemen,

Thank you all for the excellent advice. As fortune would have it, I am planning for the genny to sit for a month or so before firing up, so I will have plenty of time to do a detailed inspection of all the areas you have described. A friend also admonished me on the ground earlier today, but I again appreciate the advice and will take it all.

I hope to be able to report back to you in a few weeks time with a story of a finely humming genset.


And PMRAMSEY - I may just do that. A little swamped at the moment with current house on the market, but don't be surprised if I drop you a PM in a few weekends time.

Thanks all.

Ben
 

pmramsey

Active member
463
190
43
Location
VA
Gentlemen,

Thank you all for the excellent advice. As fortune would have it, I am planning for the genny to sit for a month or so before firing up, so I will have plenty of time to do a detailed inspection of all the areas you have described. A friend also admonished me on the ground earlier today, but I again appreciate the advice and will take it all.

I hope to be able to report back to you in a few weeks time with a story of a finely humming genset.


And PMRAMSEY - I may just do that. A little swamped at the moment with current house on the market, but don't be surprised if I drop you a PM in a few weekends time.

Thanks all.

Ben
You are welcome most any day.
 

pmramsey

Active member
463
190
43
Location
VA
Ditto on what everyone else has said. I purchased a mep 003a on GL at Fort Riley and did some checks when I got it home just a few weeks ago. . The fuel guage said empty, but there was still a few gallons of diesel in the tank, but it didnt look like diesel anymore, it was real yellow, slimy looking. Played it safe, pulled the tank, power washed with a steam cleaner and dried the inside with a hair dryer. The fuel strainer looked good, but can not say that about the two fuel filters. They were really rusted up. Ended getting the right fram fuel filters from Amazon. This was some of the experience that I had when I got the gen set home. Still thinking about speddmons spin on oil filter, maybe later as the wife says that ive been spending too much money lately.
Good thinking...The yellow, slimy looking stuff is a crude form of varnish which is what petrol-diesel becomes when it gets real sick from age and abuse. The filters MUST be changed. You have several options but you will be rewarded by being patient and getting the Fram filters as they are less work to install.
 

treeguy

New member
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Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Congradulations on the genny score! Mine is a mep02, I'm glad to hear that you are not in a hurry to fire her up. It has come to be found that old diesel in the high pressure injection pumps turns to glue. The internal workings all bind up if these units sit for a long period. Search around in here for MEP002 or 3 starting or not running or the like. Recently fellow members have been having trouble getting theirs to run. It is usually improper timing of the Injection Pump to the cam timing in the engine or stuck internal parts in the IP. Before you start anything make sure your fuel source is good and clean. The MEP002's have 3 low pressure fuel pumps, 2 primary and 1 aux. to pump out of a drum or bucket. These all have screens, pop/twist off the bottoms and clean. They also have a couple of filters - change them or make sure they are not junk. If I were to do it all over again, I would disconnect the fuel line going into the IP and crank or prime the unit making sure there is nice clean fuel up to this point. There is also a check valve right before the IP after the last filter, you can remove it and clean it out. If your brave you can try to start it (according to the instructions), but if the IP is gummed up, you will probably damage an internal part in the IP. Check some of the other threads to see what I mean, way to long to type here, but not rocket science. Good luck and keep us up to date with your progress, this site is a great wealth of knowlede for the tricky stuff you couldn't find anywhere else!

"My first MEP-003 start"
"HELP!! installing the rebuilt IP-MEP-002A Refurb Update"
"MEP 002A not starting"

Check the above threads.[thumbzup]
 

pmramsey

Active member
463
190
43
Location
VA
When doing an "autopsy" on a newly purchased MEP-002 or 003, I change the filters and fill the filter closest to the engine with Marvel Oil. I prime for 10-seconds, DO NOT glow the plugs, and immediately go to start and hold it for 5-seconds but I do not want it to actually run. I let everything set overnight. THEN, I attempt a normal start the next day.
 

treeguy

New member
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Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Do you know how long the jenny sat without running? I'd be nervous to even turn the crank the slightest bit at all for not knowing if the internal parts of the IP are siezed. If they are, the cam shaft will force the pump to spin but if the internal plunger doesn't you'll break the infamous drive washer. See the pic in thread "MEP oo2A not starting". You'll be pulling your hair out for a very long time trying to chase down fuel flows here and there and questioning if the timing is right for the pump, or if the injectors are stuck. All because of the shattered drive washer. I had even bought a new IP before I could figure that out, and then the new pump did not come with a timing button (which I didn't know) so when that pump was installed and she didn't run, I was hopping mad. I figured I had nothing to loose, so I disassembled my IP and found the problem. So dumb........that little washer........the whole problem!

Good luck, you may be fine, but just sos ya know what to keep in mind.
 

Isaac-1

Well-known member
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Location
SW, Louisiana
Treeguy I can see your point on this one, but I also suspect the average non professional diesel mechanic is likely to do as much harm as good pulling off the injection pump to check the drive washer. If there is a problem it is a fairly good chance the injection pump should be rebuilt and the injectors flow tested anyway. So it comes down to playing the odds.

Ike
 

SuperSecretSquirrel

New member
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0
Location
Northern VA
Well, I picked up the generator from Mechanicsburg today. trip went smooth and got back easy in one piece.

Overall looks OK, but it's going to need some work, to be sure. Fuel tank has lots of gunk and rust. something missing from the side of the motor where some lines connect, can see right into the engine housing (doesn't bode well, but hey, what's a project for, anyway). I stuck on a picture of the missing part.

I did mention I'm a total newb at this stuff right? :-? My skill is in construction building and in taking things apart - the fast way (high velocity way).

But, I'm going to need to learn small motor repair some day, might as well be now. Gotta have some marketable skills once TEOTWAWKI comes....
 

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Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Cambridge, Ohio
Oops...sorry to be the one to break this to you, but that missing part is your injection pump!!!

The sad thing about that is, I don't see any shims around the opening either. The shims behind the pump are supposed to stay with the block for the port closing settings of the pump. Once you buy a new pump, you're going to need to calculate the shim thickness and button thickness's for timing, and then just prey your calculations are correct so you don't put your geartrane in a bind and posibly break something.
 
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