New MEP-003A owner & Genset newbie

[dogkiller]

what I learned

I have an 802a I have learned all kinds of lessons
#1 steel soldiers is great, lots of help for people (me) who know little or nothing
#2 read,read,read get all tm's possible, liberatedmanuals.com is great & free
#3 listen these guys ( I didn't check my fuel lines as well as I could have )
#4 check all elec connections ( stripped lug, found after installed in the field)
#5 thank all the guy's on ss that have helped....

 

[treeguy]

I still have the new IP that I talked about previously. It is without the button, and it needs a delievery valve spring. I'm hoping someone here can help with finding the rights spring. The IP's for MEP2's and 3's are the same. Then you will need to figure out what to do about shims. If your fuel tank is full of gunk, you may want to start de-gunking that and then continue down the line to the pumps and the filters. I'd also pull the oil filter and drain plug and let drain for a couple days. Send me a PM if I can help you with the pump. From you picture it does look in good shape in that area!

 

[joesco]

Former Newbee here, so all the advice given is very sound. My fuel tank sounded much like yours. Lots of carb cleaner, gas, plenty of marbles or a length of chain and swish until your arms ache. Then remove / replace all the filters, clean the pump screens and remove and blow out all the fuel lines. When and when all that is completed, you will need an IP and I purchase my rebuilt unit from:
JT Pitcher
DW Diesel
315-253-2324 x125

Plan on $500.00 plus the cost of the button, around $60.00. The shims might require a call to Ambac. Then make sure you time everything properly!!! That's is where I messed up big time!!!!!

Still waiting for my fuel lines on my unit, so I am at a stand still. Good luck and welcome aboard.

 

[treeguy]

Joe, did you find a source for the high pressure fuel lines (those are the ones your talking about right?) Please share!

 

[joesco]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but the SS member that I purchase the 002A promised me an IP and two fuel lines. Still waiting!

Joe, did you find a source for the high pressure fuel lines (those are the ones your talking about right?) Please share!

 

[coyote62ny]

give tom badgett at gulf coast trucks a call he has mep002 and mep003 gen sets for parts i asked him about the ip pumps and he told me that he has used ones that are tested on a gen set and ones that he rebuilds and tests for sale office number is 1-281-422-3200 cell 1-832-323-1445 he may have the shims you need also hope this helps you get your set running

 

[Speddmon]

Guys...the problem isn't getting the shims. The problem is the thickness of the shims. The shim thickness is part of what sets the port closing dimension of the original hydraulic head that came with the generator. That's why the shims stay with the block and you need to recalculate the button thickness when you change the IP...new hydraulic head, means new port closing dimension, means new button. The thickness can be calculated from scratch, but it's a pain in the butt. Both the TM and the AMBAC service manual cover it.

 

[SuperSecretSquirrel]

Gent's,

Lot's of excellent information. I thank you all, and please keep it coming. I've gto the TM printed out and am starting to look through it, though as previously admitted, I am totally new to this, so you'll all no doubt get a few laughs at my expense as I keep you posted on the process of returning this generator to life.

Alas, it will be a slow process, as I've only a few hours here and there to work on it.

So, getting an IP doesn't seem to be my biggest problem, but rather getting the right size shims and ensuring they are properly installed.

So, next dumb question, what are the consequences of the wrong size shim (both too large and too small)?

Have any of you actually had to do this? (replace the IP AND the Shims)?

As always, thank you all for your generous advice.

 

[Hasbeen]

SSS,

If you still need TM`s I can e-mail you a set.

We Rebuilt 140 units for Uncle Sam a coupla years ago, and I have the manuals in PDF. format.
We still have a few pieces and parts laying around as well if you run into anything I can help you with.

Enjoy the project....I always liked those units


Hasbeen

 

[SuperSecretSquirrel]

SSS,

If you still need TM`s I can e-mail you a set.

We Rebuilt 140 units for Uncle Sam a coupla years ago, and I have the manuals in PDF. format.
We still have a few pieces and parts laying around as well if you run into anything I can help you with.

Enjoy the project....I always liked those units

Hasbeen,

I have the basic TM printed out from pdf, but going thru the back (newby, remember) I found all the reference codes for the Injector pump replacement, but they appear to reference the TM for procedure. I cannot find the procedure in the TM though (however, I've also not read every word, to be honest)

Is there a seperate TM for these subordinate component maintenance?

I'd be happy to take any and all pdf's you have which might be useful...

Does SS permit listing of e-mail addresses within the body of the post, or should I PM it to you?

And obviously on parts, I need an IP, but no doubt may discover other issues. One of the guages - the " % rated current meter", has the needle NOT resting on zero - I'm concerned this may indicate a bad guage which will require replacing later once other issues are corrected and I actually get it fired up.

I hope I like it as much as you do when I'm done but it will bea good learning experience if it doesn't leave CINC-Home wanting to kill me. That, and I sorta need it running once we sell the house and start building, so i don't have forever.....

 

[treeguy]

SHIMS - ya see the hole on your block, just imagine a one piece gasket that would go around the hole to seal a unit bolted here. Very basic, just clean the surfaces and put them over the studs. You just need to calculate the correct thickness. I don't know how, but we are only talking around the thickness of paper. I wouldn't worry about gauges on the box yet. The main concern is to find shims, and order an IP while you clean out the fuel system. Your dead in the water without these three steps, the rest of the electronics can be diagnosed once she is running. Good luck!

 

[Hasbeen]

Did you receive the e-mail / literature that I sent today?

I apologize (just read your last post about needing IP)

We will have most of the items that you are missing....
they are on "core" engines but i`m sure they are in servicable
condition. I can steer you to the guys that built / tested our
fuel injection components (I used to work for him when I was in that business as a "young" man) If I recall they cleaned/ recalibrated the pump, and cleaned / installed new tips in the nozzles for less than $200.00 a set.

But keep in mind that was 4 years ago, and we got the 140 engine bulk rate deal.
If I can help let me know.

Hasbeen

 

[SuperSecretSquirrel]

Hasbeen,

Yes, I did receive them. Thank you very much! Got swamped towards the end of the day and didn't have time to send you a proper thank you before I left for the day.

I'll absolutely take all the good advice and or direction / suggestion you can provide regarding the IP and related components.

As Treeguy stated above, the rest of the set is pretty much pointless until / unless I get that IP replaced. I'm more than happy to consider refurbished gear. I'm pulling the fuel tank this weekend and will start cleaning the heck out of it.

Question for the room, in cleaning the fuel tank, I plan on using some aggregate and a good cleaner. I happen to have a 5 gallon jug of purple power engine degreaser. Anyone here know if that will work well for this purpose?

 

[treeguy]

I would give anything a shot, blasting garden hose, break fluid, degreaser, dish detergent, gas, carb spray.....just dry out when done and rinse with diesel till it pours out clean, like swabbing the bore of a fire arm. I got a piece of 3/8 copper tubing and adapted it to a garden hose to clean out 55 gal drums, it would probably blast nicely into the gunk you have.

 

[SuperSecretSquirrel]

All,

Apologies for disappearing. I had to teach a class at another agency last week, and required 14 hour days with commute, then we went to PGH for Easter with the in-laws.

I'm sad to report the only progress I have made so far is to read the AMBAC manual on the timing button, and to read through Joesco's experiences with his IP.

I'll be honest, I've not been getting more motivated, but CINCHome is being very supportive, and once I do spring cleaning on the garage, the shop table belongs to the genset and parts.

So, step one, a few of you mentioned good sources for new or rebuilt IP's. I called Surplusman, and he wants 650, plus another 150 for button and shim kit. That's a little rich for my blood right now.

Anyone care to offer best sources at this time? Have one lying around, ordered an extra for gits and shiggles and don't need the paperweight anymore?

Also, while I will clean **** out of all the lines, I would also prefer to replace as many as I can with new ones, just to be sure. What are the best sources for new lines, both high and low pressure?

Any other critical parts I might want to count on needing or wanting to replace, just to be on the safe side?

Also, I know this is early in the process as I still don't even have my IP, but has anyone tried running these generators on biodiesel?

I have a friend who ran his m35a2 on pure waste veggie oil (heavily filtered) and says you can do same with minor setup mods for these generators.

My ultimate goal is to have generator and my m35a2 (scheduled acquisition later this summer) running off primary tank diesel and alt high capacity tank with waste veggie oil. alt tank will have heating coil for pre-heat of veggie oil, and engines will be operated first and last 5 minutes on diesel to clear the lines and core.

Any thoughts? would this impact my needed IP in any way?

Thanks again all.

Ben

 

[pmramsey]

The stuff gells at 40 F and one must watch how well seals and the like hold up in different applications. The Onan runs a bit "quieter" on the waste veggie oil when I tested the stuff on it. I've not had the chance to run our 10Kws on straight veggie oil as we mostly use them in the dead of winter. Anything we run from now until October has roughly a 50-50 blend. M1028 starting is difficult at times but its hard to say whether its the oil blend or the unit.

 

[SuperSecretSquirrel]

Progress update

Glory be! The shim was still there! I just never saw it. I finally got around to having some time to pull the beasty out in the garage and an start tooling around, cleaning it up. low and behold, the shim was just stuck tight against the block.


So, that saves me some really icky computations. Of course, I have no way of knowing it was the right shim, but someone took the time to leave it there, along with a single bolt/washer from the IP, so I'm guessing it's right.

Speaking of IP's, I have one en-route. SS member HASBEEN has proven himself to be one helluva' guy. He is supplying me an IP off an old motor he happened to have.

So once it arrives, I get to start figuring out the timing button equation.

In the meantime, I am slowly taking apart and cleaning/de-rusting individual parts.

I've had purple power sitting in the fuel tank for a week, and have now taken the tank loose, and letting it sit on the sides and ends so the cleaner can work on all edges.

Today I took off the air filter housing and cleaned out some rust, re-attached the gasket to the filter (which looks clean), de-rusted the intake and exhaust ports, and got the cold/normal plate adjust un-seized and working again. It was frozen solid.


I'll post some pics, and then some more with some questions below.

Ahh, and pics of the wheels I mounted just to be able to move the thing around in the garage.

Also, my 5 yr old twins wanted to join in the fun. Their younger brother (3) and sister (<2) were napping at the time, which about the only chance I get to play with this thing on weekends.

Thanks all for the encouragement.

Ben

 

[SuperSecretSquirrel]

Couple more questions

OK, so we've established I'm missing an IP, and one is en-route.

I have a shim (praying the right one).

I took a look around the beasty and snapped some pics of a few other issue areas I'd love all your help with / advice.

2 of the pics below show my missing and/or damaged air hoses to the air intake. Are these a standard type of hose I can get at an auto parts store, or something special?


Another pic looking at the top of the engine area shows a corroded and snapped electrical lead. (between my fingers - seems to be leading to the injectors?)

Question one, what is this piece, and is it easily repaired?

Two, should I plan on also replacing all it's un-broken but corroded siblings?

Three, is this indicative of any warning signs, should I anticipate any major problems with the generator due to that level of corrosion in that location?



Another picture shows the solenoid (I know this because the thing says "solenoid" on it). In front of the "solenoid" is a 2 pronged fork rod. This looks like it is supposed to be attached to something. What?


Lastly, a shot of the control panel showing some of the TLC this thing received while in service. Should those dents concern me?


All for now. Slowly learning. Thanks to all who offered assistance or advice, and even those who've just read.

Ben

 

[Speddmon]

2 of the pics below show my missing and/or damaged air hoses to the air intake. Are these a standard type of hose I can get at an auto parts store, or something special?

The piece of hose in picture #1 for the air intake is actually a heavy piece of rubber hose kind of like a sandblasting hose. Obviously it doesn't need to be that heavy duty, but it does have to be re-enforced so it does not collapse from the air suction.

The piece of hose in picture #2 is just a peice of "Duck Hose" like on a heater duct in a car. Nothing special about that, really it is not even necessary (more on this later). That hose goes into the side of the air cleaner for the "cold weather" slide bar you mentioned cleaning and freeing up.

The reason I say that the second hose is not necessary is this. Think about what that hose and the slider on the side of the air cleaner housing do. In cold weather, it supposed to draw warm air from around the heads inside of the shutter box to aid in starting and running. But if you think about it, if the set has not been run in a few hours or so (most likely it will be dead cold) the air temperature inside of the shutter box is going to be the same temperature as the air outside of it. Therefore there is no advantage to drawing air from the box for starting. And by the time the heads start to produce heat to draw into the intake, the engine will have been running long enough that it will not need it any more and can run just fine on the outside air. So why have it or use it at all???

Another pic looking at the top of the engine area shows a corroded and snapped electrical lead. (between my fingers - seems to be leading to the injectors?)

Question one, what is this piece, and is it easily repaired?

Two, should I plan on also replacing all it's un-broken but corroded siblings?

Three, is this indicative of any warning signs, should I anticipate any major problems with the generator due to that level of corrosion in that location?

That broken piece is the spade that is silver soldered to the end of the glow plug. The glow plug is the hex head you can see in the picture about mid way between your fingers and the high pressure Injection line. Yes, that one will need replaced. The others may be fine, but a good cleaning will not hurt them. You'll need to check them one at a time with an Ohm meter to see if they are good. From that spade on the end to the engine block you should get a resistance reading with an ohm meter. If you get no resistance then the glow plug is burned open and needs replaced. When you check them, pull the wires off of each one so you are not reading through another plug.

Another picture shows the solenoid (I know this because the thing says "solenoid" on it). In front of the "solenoid" is a 2 pronged fork rod. This looks like it is supposed to be attached to something. What?

That fork rod you have pictured connects to the throttle rod on the side of the IP. If the gentleman you are getting the IP from is sending it complete, the rods should be attached to the IP. One rod should go to the fuel shut-off solenoid and the other rod will go to the governor control rod (forked rod).

Lastly, a shot of the control panel showing some of the TLC this thing received while in service. Should those dents concern me?

I wouldn't worry too much about the dents as long as the components inside are intact. You should be able to lower the face plate and see if anything looks amiss inside.

 

[Hasbeen]

SSS,

The "math" for IP install / correct shims...is not as complicated as it at first seems...(and if I remember correctly) the engine block will be "stamped" (where you removed the shim you found)....maybe steel wool, scotch bright will reveal it...with a number that is representative of the shim / shims required to get you close ( .006....010...005 etc)

The linkage for the connection of the "forked" rod, and solenoid solenoid adjustment are a little "delicate"....but (per your pics of those "youngsters") you`re bound to have the patience for it

Good looking crew, and great project !

See ya,

Hasbeen