New to me MEP-002

[Keith_J]

Heat is your friend on stuck fittings. Don't round off nuts. Now, on the no fuel issue, track the governor linkage to where it enters the injection pump, that lever must move freely. If it doesn't, it can be fixed without pulling the pump. But it takes a ton of patience and knowledge of how the injection pump works. Plus a small dental mirror to assure the control collar pawl is properly engaged. If not done right, you can have a run away engine.

 

[Alphabavo]

Thanks for the reminder to use heat.

With a minimal amount of fuss and an alarming amount of smoke, the pump is off.

Whats the next step?

 

[Keith_J]

Take off the fuel control lever, two small screws with locking tabs. With that removed, you can use some B12 Chemtool carb cleaner on the insides to help loosen up the mess. Also clean the lever shaft so it rotates freely. If that was the problem, it should be fine now. If not, you need to download TM 5-6115-584-34 to do a full tear down, it it in the TM section here. Page 7-30. You also need the TM to properly time the pump when installing it. Leaving the B12 Chemtool in will help soften the varnish but always flush with clean diesel before turning since it lubricates the pump.

 

[Alphabavo]

Ok, the pump is soaking in chemtool and the control lever rotates much more freely. Anything else I need to look for?

Im not noticing any timing marks on the flywheel, is tdc going to have to be determined with a dial indicator through and injector port, or is it easier on these?

 

[Jimc]

the flywheel will have an "A", "B" and a "PC" mark on it. sometimes they are rusty but you'll be able to see it. this is on the flywheel NOT the blower wheel. you dont need to know tdc unless you are doing a rebuild and want to double check that the factory pointer is set right.

 

[Alphabavo]

Ok, say I wanted to procure a known good fuel pump, who would have one at a decent price?

It would be even better if I could trade them my questionable pump +cash. Work has been crazy, so I have been short on time, so I haven't been able to pull apart the one I have, and I just want to get this thing running.

 

[storeman]

I don't see that anyone has suggested that you have a helper crank while you hold the fuel linkage all the way up to see if it fires. Could be simply a throttle adjustment issue. If it fires but won't run do a full throttle adjustment procedure. If it runs but won't carry a load, injectors are more likely to be your problem than the IP. Injectors can be rebuilt/adjusted.

BTW: Haven't been here in a while. Been learning a bit about welding.
Jerry

 

[Alphabavo]

the flywheel will have an "A", "B" and a "PC" mark on it. sometimes they are rusty but you'll be able to see it. this is on the flywheel NOT the blower wheel. you dont need to know tdc unless you are doing a rebuild and want to double check that the factory pointer is set right.

I take it that the pointer is the hole on the side of the flywheel shroud with the little metal arm in it?

Which should it point to for timing the injector?

 

[Alphabavo]

Ok, so I pulled the cap off the injector pump, and the button that rides on top of the plunger just fell out. It was not retained in any way with the exception of the cap that floats over it. The button has a "1" stamped on the side of it.

i imagine is may have been contributing to my issues. Any input on this?

injector pump has "1.080" scribed on the side of the flange.

 

[Alphabavo]

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have been trying to help him but his button not having a retainer kinda threw me for a loop. Shouldn't there be a wire circle to hold it in place? Will that not being there cause issues(like not starting)? I can send him just a clip to make sure that- that isn't his only problem.

I will locate a good IP for you this weekend and contact you Monday.

 

[Keith_J]

The circlip holding the button in place is only to keep it together until the pump is installed. But if the plunger sticks, it could cause the button to fall out and get intimate with the tappet and plunger spring. So having it installed is a must. The M35A2 hydraulic head is of the same type, only the button keeper is an external sheet metal affair and they have Ben known to go flying off when running if the plunger sticks.

Oddly enough, it looks like the two systems share Oldham drive keys. Well, they do look identical, I need to do a side by side comparison when I reassemble a friends 003a, once the new key comes in

 

[gimpyrobb]

Keith, they are not compatible, I tried it already!
I sent him a good pump with a retaining clip to hold his button on. Waiting to hear that he got it running. Were are not sure he has the right button since it didn't have the retainer clip.