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New to me MEP 802a

csmitty

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Hey guys! Joined to read up some GenSets as I was researching for this last GL auction. Decided I'd take a chance on this guy. A 94 with 2500 hours on the clock. The 0X' something I was watching with 97hrs got to high. In the pics I could see it had coolant, fuel filters, oil filter and a new starter. No batteries.

Didn't take long to get into the garage and get it checked out. The 2nd fuel filter had 1/13 written on it. So that was cool. And the air filter looked brand new.

nda38GZl.jpg

I was a bit bummed to see water in the exhaust outlet but with taking the muffler off it seemed contained to just the muffler. Guess its all the baffling inside?

Pulling the exhaust manifold I got this.

59itTLll.jpg

Moving onto the valve covers the valve train looks great.

dZOeKhel.jpg

This seems like it was a very well maintained unit.

Next I went ahead and decided to see what the crank case oil looked like. Pulled the plug and opened the valve. Brand new oil, and no hints of any water. Then checked the fuel drain. Got a little water at first and then got clean fuel. Not sure what it was though. Could have been JP. Or stale diesel.

U0wTmvYl.jpg

Opened up the panels and all the wiring and components look intact and unmolested.

U252INvl.jpg

LW3WQBFl.jpg

KwTRYzQl.jpg

Gauges are a little rough and don't read 0 on some like oil pressure. Seems like it was used in a sandy place.

qnntf9Jl.jpg

with all that I decided to give turning it over by hand a try and see if I felt anything. Other than some compression it seemed to rotate pretty smooth. I'm thinking about pulling the injectors and bore scoping to see if can get into the cylinder and see how it looks vs pulling the head.

Honestly I bet if I put some batteries to it and fresh fuel it'd fire right up. Thinking I got pretty darn lucky on this one. Especially give the price.

I checked some others on the lot that I was considering bidding on and glad I didn't. One looked like the gen overheated. Yikes.

Looking forward to getting this guy hooked up and learning more about them!
 

kloppk

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Sounds like you may have scored a pretty good one.
The Oil Pressure, Temp and Fuel gauges tend to stay where they were when the unit was last shutdown.
They'll jump into position when you turn S1 to the Prime/Run position before starting.

Looks like yours is missing the "Fuse Mod". Might want to consider getting that installed.
See TB 11-6115-741-24 section 5.1 for details.

Be gentle with S1 the Master Switch. It has a plastic shaft and they are prone to breaking off.
 
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csmitty

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Location
Atlanta, GA
Sounds like you may have scored a pretty good one.
The Oil Pressure, Temp and Fuel gauges tend to stay where they were when the unit was last shutdown.
They'll jump into position when you turn S1 to the Prime/Run position before starting.

Looks like yours is missing the "Fuse Mod". Might want to consider getting that installed.
See TB 11-6115-741-24 section 5.1 for details.

Be gentle with S1 the Master Switch. It has a plastic shaft and they are prone to breaking off.
Thanks, doing a quick search it seems 5.1 is related to the trailers?

I think I did find the repair procedure though. 6.1.
http://generators.tpub.com/TB-11-6115-741-24/TB-11-6115-741-240037.htm

And from searching pics it looks like its attached to the side of the A1 voltage regulator. Just trying to figure out how to cross reference or order parts by NSN number. Rookie.
 

TNriverjet

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Welcome aboard csmitty. I recovered my unit from Warner Robins. It sounds like yours will start up pretty easily. Glad to hear you got one in decent shape. Mine was a tier 2 reset with only 134 hours. It was as simple as batteries, fuel, an oil change and new coolant. They are really interesting machines.
 

csmitty

Member
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Location
Atlanta, GA
Sounds like you may have scored a pretty good one.
The Oil Pressure, Temp and Fuel gauges tend to stay where they were when the unit was last shutdown.
They'll jump into position when you turn S1 to the Prime/Run position before starting.

Looks like yours is missing the "Fuse Mod". Might want to consider getting that installed.
See TB 11-6115-741-24 section 5.1 for details.

Be gentle with S1 the Master Switch. It has a plastic shaft and they are prone to breaking off.
I found the TB but looks like it was section 6.1. Mine doesn't have the fuse mod then. Also is there a way to search and order parts by the NSN number?
 

csmitty

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Location
Atlanta, GA
Welcome aboard csmitty. I recovered my unit from Warner Robins. It sounds like yours will start up pretty easily. Glad to hear you got one in decent shape. Mine was a tier 2 reset with only 134 hours. It was as simple as batteries, fuel, an oil change and new coolant. They are really interesting machines.
Thanks! Warner Robins is probably about the same distance. For tier 2 resets is there a tag not the unit that shows its been done? I've only seen them on the 803A's i've looked at.

This one is looking the same way. Looks good to go. I pulled the injectors and stuck cheap bore scope down there to look and see. Looks pretty clean to me. The exhaust valve stems were a little carbon'd up but maybe some seafoam would help that out.

Cylinder 1
Cylinder 1.jpg

Cylinder 2
Cylinder 2.jpg

Gonna get some fresh filters, diesel and batteries and gonna give it a go.
 

kloppk

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I found the TB but looks like it was section 6.1. Mine doesn't have the fuse mod then. Also is there a way to search and order parts by the NSN number?
Odd... In my copy of the TB the fuse mod is in 5.1. it's dated 15 May 2009

Here is the parts list from the TB with NSN numbers.

Fuse Mod Parts.JPG
 

csmitty

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Location
Atlanta, GA
Odd... In my copy of the TB the fuse mod is in 5.1. it's dated 15 May 2009

Here is the parts list from the TB with NSN numbers.

View attachment 621754
So I figured out why a moderator needed to approve my posts. I was linking to another site. It was generators.tpub.com. So maybe thats why there was a discrepancy. I just put the TB number in google and picked the first few. Is there a better spot to view the TB's and TM's? Thanks for posting those though, that will help get a kit together so I can get this guy hooked up.
 

JRM

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Location
Brightwood, Oregon
Your genset looks like a turn key runner! I had to start mine at the IP yard to power my compressor as the tires were flat. I changed the fluids and called it a day.
 

Guyfang

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Gents,

The TB was written several times. Or better said, written once, then updated several times. So sometimes the headings get changed, when a line gets added or subtracted. The TB, showed different numbers then the instructions that came with the Mod Kit. And sometimes the Mod Kit came with material from different companies then the original suppliers. And sometimes the mod would be applied at reset, or (very rarely) by some young soldier/contractor who used what was at hand to do the Mod. So this Mod tends to look very different between sets. The main thing was that it was installed, and it worked.

Also, the NSN's could be wrong, on the TB. According to my info, from a senior CECOM Tech Rep, the NSN's for the fuse and fuse holder were transposed, on the TB. I don't know, never looked, as I had a parts list from the CECOM Rep.
 
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TNriverjet

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Thanks! Warner Robins is probably about the same distance. For tier 2 resets is there a tag not the unit that shows its been done? I've only seen them on the 803A's i've looked at. (snip)
Yes, the tier 2 reset tags should be the same for an 803A or an 802A. Here is a shot of the tag on my 802A.
image.jpg
 

csmitty

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Location
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Gents,

The TB was written several times. Or better said, written once, then updated several times. So sometimes the headings get changed, when a line gets added or subtracted. The TB, showed different numbers then the instructions that came with the Mod Kit. And sometimes the Mod Kit came with material from different companies then the original suppliers. And sometimes the mod would be applied at reset, or (very rarely) by some young soldier/contractor who used what was at hand to do the Mod. So this Mod tends to look very different between sets. The main thing was that it was installed, and it worked.

Also, the NSN's could be wrong, on the TB. According to my info, from a senior CECOM Tech Rep, the NSN's for the fuse and fuse holder were transposed, on the TB. I don't know, never looked, as I had a parts list from the CECOM Rep.
Thanks. I got the basics coming. The fuse holder and fuse. Those lined up with what was on the TB and parts list. I tried tracking down the wire but couldn't find anything with those part numbers.


Yes, the tier 2 reset tags should be the same for an 803A or an 802A. Here is a shot of the tag on my 802A.
View attachment 621856
Cool. Mine def. doesn't have those tags. One of the injectors had a 5-94 stamp on it, so assuming the engine is original. The other injector looked to have been replaced.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,

A typical generator in the field is repaired as needed. Small things are done and accomplished. If the generator has a catastrophic failure, it will be sent to a higher level repair facility.

Letterkenny Army Depot is just one of many repair facilities. A tier 2 reset is a break down of unit. Update, repair, replace, whatever, to make unit refurbished working like new unit. Test run unit to ensure it makes the grade, send it back out to the field. That is when it gets a Tier 2 reset tag. Not all units need a full tier 2 reset. There are many units maintained in the field working just fine. Or, they might have a little issue, like fuel line leak, they leave it alone and use another unit. Maybe that unit sits around 5 years and then gets auctioned off. If you look through the TM's. You will see a list of what meets battle ready condition, and what does not.

Here is my 2007 unit with the TB applied
 

Attachments

Guyfang

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Morning!
As I have said before, a picture is worth a thousand words. This picture shows a letter perfect of the quad circuit Modification. This is how the CECOM wanted it done. Some of you folks out there may have something very different.

Tier 2 work required the automatic replacement of a number of parts. No questions asked. Even if they were new, the parts went into the dumpster.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy Guy,
It's kinda like saying you never did anything on a generator in the field. :)

Like a only correctly running generator needs a tier 2 reset. As some know, even those were not 100%. :burn:
 

Guyfang

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I tried tracking down the wire but couldn't find anything with those part numbers.

CSMITTY,

What part numbers do you want to cross over to NSN's?
Here is the NSN for 20Ga wire, (part number M5086/2-20-9) 6145-00-851-8505
NSN for 16Ga wire, (part number M5086/2-16-9) 6145-00-578-6605
NSN for 12Ga wire, (part number M5086/2-12-9) 6145-00-578-7514

These numbers are listed in the parts manual. Any time you want to find a BULK item, like hose, wire, hinge material and so on, look in the BULK section of the TM. To find the wire, I looked into the parts manual, in the Control box assembly. Found the part number for 20, 16 and 12 Gage wire. Then you go to Bulk Items section. Look in the listing for the wire you need. Then go to CROSS REFERENCE INDEXES, look until the part numbers are listed, (it toward the last part) and look up the part number. The NSN is listed right next to it.

When I could not find the part number listed in the TB in the TM, I then looked at the description. Wire, 20 Ga. As that is listed in the TM, it was simple to cross. The number given in the TB was a provisional number. There is always another way to skin a cat!

The milatary always uses aircraft rated wire in gen sets. Its a better quality, lasts for ever. But for your purposes, any wire of the right gage would do. I just love the aircraft wire! NOTHING better.
 
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