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New toy I just got

Warthog

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I've got three 6.2L Hummer engines in the can. Might be easier than a 350 swap.
 

rnd-motorsports

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The 350 swap is really easy do the switch back to 12 volt , one wire to hook up to ignition side of dist. biggest thing guy miss is the Governor in the trans needs to be swapped for a gas unit or at least the springs in the gov. and change the torque converter to a gas unit really simple good luck!
 

JUNKYARDJOHN

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I bought a M1009 in the fall & just bought a M1031. I also bought a couple of 6.2 HMMV takeout in the cans. This is my first foray into diesels, but I'm commiting myself to em. It may take awhile.. but I'll learn. :idea: John
 

ssgtcampbell77

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My last Blazer I had I run the 24v glow plugs and they worked great I just bypassed the res. pack run 24v straight to the relay. It all worked great. I had a ton of them too that is why I ran them.
Did you have to change the relay out? Right now I have a 12V relay but I also have a 24V relay lying around....not sure if its good but Im willing to try. I also have about 50 glow plugs all 24V. trying to figure out how I can put this puzzle together!! :beer:
 

67_C-30

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You know what I always wondered about the Blazers - both the military and the civvy ones : what is going on with the busted rear windows on them? Almost every one I have seen in person either had a missing rear window, or it wouldn't roll up/down. I have a hard time believing that out of all the problems a car could have, the back window is the lynchpin on Blazers....
No, it really is the biggest PITA on these trucks. Although it is a nice looking, clean design, it is a poor design. The cranks and regulators are very flimsy, and that is an ass heavy piece of glass. GM lightened the windshield and side windows in 1981 from the heavy design used from '73 - '80, but the Blazer rear window remained the same from '73 - '91.

I've learned over years if you keep them clean and greased, and easily roll the window up and down fairly often, they OK. I usually only keep about 4 or 6 screws in the access panel on the gate, and try to check everything fairly regulator. If it ever gets "sticky" I grease it right then, before rolling it back up. If you don't roll down the window for a couple months and let it get kinda stuck and then just try to bulldog it down real quick, you can pop the crank or regulator on the spot.
 

NCBloodhound

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No, it really is the biggest PITA on these trucks. Although it is a nice looking, clean design, it is a poor design. The cranks and regulators are very flimsy, and that is an ass heavy piece of glass. GM lightened the windshield and side windows in 1981 from the heavy design used from '73 - '80, but the Blazer rear window remained the same from '73 - '91.

I've learned over years if you keep them clean and greased, and easily roll the window up and down fairly often, they OK. I usually only keep about 4 or 6 screws in the access panel on the gate, and try to check everything fairly regulator. If it ever gets "sticky" I grease it right then, before rolling it back up. If you don't roll down the window for a couple months and let it get kinda stuck and then just try to bulldog it down real quick, you can pop the crank or regulator on the spot.

I never had any problems with my '90 K5. I guess I got lucky.
 

AllenEM

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Did you have to change the relay out? Right now I have a 12V relay but I also have a 24V relay lying around....not sure if its good but Im willing to try. I also have about 50 glow plugs all 24V. trying to figure out how I can put this puzzle together!! :beer:
I did not change my because it still use 12v to switch on and off
 

Warthog

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is it a complete engine or will I have to take somethings off my and put on it?
They are takeouts in cans from GL. As in all takeouts you will have to transfer most on the add-on components. Alternaters, brackets, starter, etc.

Since they are HMMWV engines the pullies and exhaust will also need to be changed out.

P.S. - This is not an ad to sell some some. just trying to help a fellow SS member with some spare parts I have. :D
 

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ssgtcampbell77

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They are takeouts in cans from GL. As in all takeouts you will have to transfer most on the add-on components. Alternaters, brackets, starter, etc.

Since they are HMMWV engines the pullies and exhaust will also need to be changed out.

P.S. - This is not an ad to sell some some. just trying to help a fellow SS member with some spare parts I have. :D
When you bought those did they say if they ran?
 

Warthog

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When you bought those did they say if they ran?

How long have you been looking at GL? They never say if they run or not.

It is always Buyer Beware.................:shock:

But these came from Ft Riley and they do the heavy armor upgrades there, so the chances of them running are very good.
 

ssgtcampbell77

Staff Sergeant
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Location
St Louis MO
How long have you been looking at GL? They never say if they run or not.

It is always Buyer Beware.................:shock:

But these came from Ft Riley and they do the heavy armor upgrades there, so the chances of them running are very good.
Actually never. Ive looked once but I don't deal with them as I send them alot of my junk stuff (engines, trannys, starters, alts....) so I wouldn't take a chance buying from them.
 

AllenEM

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Ok so I got a donor 1008 with a good engine and it has good axles under it so I was thinking of a 4" lift and 1008 axles under the 1009. my question what lift to get and will I have to do any mods to do this swap? I plan on running 37" tires
 

rnd-motorsports

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What ever brand of lift you go with remember you will need to get diff. u-bolts because the Dana 60 uses bigger or wider U-bolts. 2 u-bolt on driver side and 1 U-bolt and two bolts on pass side
 

AllenEM

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Newer Engine is in not running yet PO really mess up the wring under the dash.

working on rewiring so I can start it and have lights and ect.
also putting the axles from the donor M1008 under her.
 
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