Newbie just traded for a M1088 starting restoration and camper conversion

[Hookandpull]

First off I just want to say I am thoroughly impressed with the knowledge base on this forum and the caliber of guys that present it. I’ve been lurking for a few weeks and my hats off to ya. A Little background on me…I’m a Former AirForce F-15 avionics specialist on the flight line. Got out in 08 and started a job as a research and development Engineer doing hands on destructive and non destructive analysis on experimental aircraft for Sikorsky then to Boeing. From there I moved to AZ to do the same for caterpillar at their proving grounds, so I have a limited amount of experience on heavy equipment (short two years worth). That being said I now own a shop doing collision repair. I’ve been building rock crawlers for several years and building an over landing LMTV has been on my mind for quite some time. Without further ado here she is… she’s a 98 M1088 with 8k on the Odo. I already started tearing her down. There’s a hydraulic leak coming from a “junction box?” Behind the cab. Looks like the rear control arms need to be replaced but can they be rebuilt? CTIS seems to work but there’s a bad line on driver front wheel. Door handles are broken and seems to be a tire with a flat spot somewhere. Anything else I should do before I start cleaning and painting the chassis.

 

[Guruman]

I'd pull the drive lines and have them checked/balanced/rebuilt.

 

[Hookandpull]

I’m also looking for a new passenger front fender flare if anyone knows where to source one

 

[Hookandpull]

I'd pull the drive lines and have them checked/balanced/rebuilt.

Previous owner said he already went through those

 

[Mullaney]

First off I just want to say I am thoroughly impressed with the knowledge base on this forum and the caliber of guys that present it. I’ve been lurking for a few weeks and my hats off to ya. A Little background on me…I’m a Former AirForce F-15 avionics specialist on the flight line. Got out in 08 and started a job as a research and development Engineer doing hands on destructive and non destructive analysis on experimental aircraft for Sikorsky then to Boeing. From there I moved to AZ to do the same for caterpillar at their proving grounds, so I have a limited amount of experience on heavy equipment (short two years worth). That being said I now own a shop doing collision repair. I’ve been building rock crawlers for several years and building an over landing LMTV has been on my mind for quite some time. Without further ado here she is… she’s a 98 M1088 with 8k on the Odo. I already started tearing her down. There’s a hydraulic leak coming from a “junction box?” Behind the cab. Looks like the rear control arms need to be replaced but can they be rebuilt? CTIS seems to work but there’s a bad line on driver front wheel. Door handles are broken and seems to be a tire with a flat spot somewhere. Anything else I should do before I start cleaning and painting the chassis.

.
Welcome to the Outfit!

I have to echo @Guruman 's comment about drive lines. These trucks do just fine - if they are balanced and the slip yoke and the other end are indexed. They should be "keyed" but don't count on what a guy with steel marbles in a sandbox can't break.

For dependability, that big fuse (circuit) panel on the right side of the dash needs to be cleaned. Remove the batteries, then one by one remove the circuit breakers and clean the contacts on the board and the breakers themselves. Use a tiny bit of Anti-Oxidation paste on them when you put them back together. Speaking about batteries - unless you plan to drive to Alaska - I would rewire to a pair of batteries rather than the normal four. The charging system in these M1088's are marginal and the 12v side eventually needs more charging than the alternator puts out. Exception to that is that you drive it several times a week because otherwise the outside right (rear) battery gets low and the truck won't start. (click, clack).

Being able to jack the cab over will be useful for maintenance. Rebuild kits are available for the valve body and for the jack as well. Lots of threads on how to and where to get parts are here.

@Suprman is a good source for door handles. Not sure what he has in the shelf but he is a good reasonable source for LMTV parts. Another option might be to is to replace the "pot metal" door handle with the steel handles like tool pocket doors have on them. Also a thread on that as well. That might be your best plan - especially with you in the Body Shop business...

 

[Third From Texas]

Get your TMs, but you already know that no doubt.

For door handles, I'd *highly* recommend upgrading to the TriMarks that are used on the A1R trucks. Simple mod to perform and can be done for a *fraction* of what NOS A0 handles sell for. Keep in mind that it's extremely common to find A0 trucks with broken A0 handles. They break. So I'd recommend the upgrade. YouTube and Google for the how to...

Rubber goes bad. Your cab bushings, sway bar bushings, drag link grease boots are all rotted, brittle, and decomposed. These things are rubber and have a shelf life. They will rot, turn brittle, and decompose on the shelf just as they do on the truck. Seek out freshly manufactured (Awesomeness makes swaybar bushings, General Disorder is cooking up some cab bushings. Both sell their wares cheaper than the most commonly recommended surplus vendors get for rubber as old as what's on your truck.

Dual batteries over four is the way to go. Your OEM alt is 100a and is simply a mismatch for charging four 6TLs.



Shop your parts. There are some vendors that sell $20 parts for $20 and some that will throw their company decal on the part and gladly take $500 for the same part (with a straight face and many cheerful community recommendations). Shop your parts.

Good luck finding that flat spot on the tire. I bet I changed tires a dozen times on my first m1078 trying to isolate a bumpy tire. LOL

 

[GENX]

Don't forget the Compressor, Starter and Fan all need to be checked to make sure bolts are tight with Nordlock washers or guaranteed sorrow is in your future. The price of neglect is costly replacement starter, a destroyed radiator or a cracked block. Then there is the oil line of death. These seem to be the show stoppers that are the first low hanging fruit.

 

[Hookandpull]

Don't forget the Compressor, Starter and Fan all need to be checked to make sure bolts are tight with Nordlock washers or guaranteed sorrow is in your future. The price of neglect is costly replacement starter, a destroyed radiator or a cracked block. Then there is the oil line of death. These seem to be the show stoppers that are the first low hanging fruit.

Any links to the items you listed? Thank you for your input I appreciate it.

 

[GENX]

I am going to quote @Ronmar from another post on the Oil line:

Begin QUOTE:
There is a metallic oil line between the drivers side of the cylinder head and the back side of the governor. It is looped out like a diving board and it can oscillate, work-harden and break if the truck has a lot of vibration. Most people have been replacing it with a braided -4 hose with -4 JIC connectors and a couple of -4JIC to -4SAE adapters. some use off the shelf teflon brake lines or have a hydraulic hose made, just be sure to watch the bend radius of whatever hose you use. Here are the parts I chose. The 9” line allows me to just maintain the minimum 2” bend radius for the -4 braided line.

JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long,JIC to SAE O-ring,Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings,Hydraulics, JIC 10 Male x SAE 10 Male 90 Degree
www.surpluscenter.com
JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter | JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter, JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree, JIC 4M TO SAE 4M 45 ELBOW, JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 456802-04-04,
www.surpluscenter.com
Allstar Performance ALL46400-9: Braided Steel Line #4 Line - JEGS High Performance
Buy Allstar Performance ALL46400-9 at JEGS: Allstar Performance Braided Steel Line #4 Line. Guaranteed lowest price!

www.jegs.com

proper driveshaft indexing has the yokes on each end of the shaft inline with each other. If someone pulled the slip yoke apart and wasn’t paying attention they could mis-align them. You also want to get under there and check the shafts for excessive looseness in the slip yoke splines. There is a hinging test that uses a magnetic base to connect a dial indicator to one side to measure the movement on the other side. it is a small spec, but basically if you can feel/see movement in the slip yoke it is probably too much...

these things have real high driveshaft angles and because of the axle gearing really high driveshaft RPM. The driveshafts need to be in good shape or they will provide vibrations that will destroy that oil line, alternator mounts or shake other parts loose like the air compressor, or crack the timing case. There is a support bracket you need to look for on the rear end of the air compressor where the power steering hydraulic pump is attached. It connects from the lower hydraulic pump mount screw in to the side of the engine block And helps to support all the overhung compressor and PS pump weight bolted to the aluminum timing case...

END QUOTE

Get in the TM's and check the fan shroud, make sure it and the starter bolts are tight. Spend some time getting familiar with your truck through these forums. People here are awesome if you run into trouble.

 

[Hookandpull]

I am going to quote @Ronmar from another post on the Oil line:

Begin QUOTE:
There is a metallic oil line between the drivers side of the cylinder head and the back side of the governor. It is looped out like a diving board and it can oscillate, work-harden and break if the truck has a lot of vibration. Most people have been replacing it with a braided -4 hose with -4 JIC connectors and a couple of -4JIC to -4SAE adapters. some use off the shelf teflon brake lines or have a hydraulic hose made, just be sure to watch the bend radius of whatever hose you use. Here are the parts I chose. The 9” line allows me to just maintain the minimum 2” bend radius for the -4 braided line.

JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long,JIC to SAE O-ring,Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings,Hydraulics, JIC 10 Male x SAE 10 Male 90 Degree
www.surpluscenter.com
JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter | JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter, JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree, JIC 4M TO SAE 4M 45 ELBOW, JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 456802-04-04,
www.surpluscenter.com
Allstar Performance ALL46400-9: Braided Steel Line #4 Line - JEGS High Performance
Buy Allstar Performance ALL46400-9 at JEGS: Allstar Performance Braided Steel Line #4 Line. Guaranteed lowest price!

www.jegs.com

proper driveshaft indexing has the yokes on each end of the shaft inline with each other. If someone pulled the slip yoke apart and wasn’t paying attention they could mis-align them. You also want to get under there and check the shafts for excessive looseness in the slip yoke splines. There is a hinging test that uses a magnetic base to connect a dial indicator to one side to measure the movement on the other side. it is a small spec, but basically if you can feel/see movement in the slip yoke it is probably too much...

these things have real high driveshaft angles and because of the axle gearing really high driveshaft RPM. The driveshafts need to be in good shape or they will provide vibrations that will destroy that oil line, alternator mounts or shake other parts loose like the air compressor, or crack the timing case. There is a support bracket you need to look for on the rear end of the air compressor where the power steering hydraulic pump is attached. It connects from the lower hydraulic pump mount screw in to the side of the engine block And helps to support all the overhung compressor and PS pump weight bolted to the aluminum timing case...

END QUOTE

Get in the TM's and check the fan shroud, make sure it and the starter bolts are tight. Spend some time getting familiar with your truck through these forums. People here are awesome if you run into trouble.

You all are awesome! Thank you for all that info I’ll have my hands full today

 

[Hookandpull]

I have kind of a high pitch noise under partial load that almost sounds like gear lash. It sounds like it could be normal. Anyway it’s definitely loud enough to be heard in the cabin but it can’t be picked up on video. Goes away above 50 but most predominant between 35-50

 

[Guruman]

I have kind of a high pitch noise under partial load that almost sounds like gear lash. It sounds like it could be normal. Anyway it’s definitely loud enough to be heard in the cabin but it can’t be picked up on video. Goes away above 50 but most predominant between 35-50

Might be a boost leak... Maybe. It's not uncommon, and can make some strange whistling/squealing/wining sounds. Check the charge air path for loose/damaged clamps or a split pressure hose.

 

[Hookandpull]

Might be a boost leak... Maybe. It's not uncommon, and can make some strange whistling/squealing/wining sounds. Check the charge air path for loose/damaged clamps or a split pressure hose.

It’s definitely gearing. It sounds exactly like gear lash when gears are straight cut kinda like on the first Gen vortex superchargers.

 

[Guruman]

It’s definitely gearing. It sounds exactly like gear lash when gears are straight cut kinda like on the first Gen vortex superchargers.

I get a fair amount of gear noise from my hubs. I have not figured out if it's "normal" or not. They don't get hot, and the sound has not changed at all. Someday I'll tear into the from axle and check the lash.

 

[Hookandpull]

I get a fair amount of gear noise from my hubs. I have not figured out if it's "normal" or not. They don't get hot, and the sound has not changed at all. Someday I'll tear into the from axle and check the lash.

That makes me feel tons better

 

[serpico760]

.
Welcome to the Outfit!

I have to echo @Guruman 's comment about drive lines. These trucks do just fine - if they are balanced and the slip yoke and the other end are indexed. They should be "keyed" but don't count on what a guy with steel marbles in a sandbox can't break.

For dependability, that big fuse (circuit) panel on the right side of the dash needs to be cleaned. Remove the batteries, then one by one remove the circuit breakers and clean the contacts on the board and the breakers themselves. Use a tiny bit of Anti-Oxidation paste on them when you put them back together. Speaking about batteries - unless you plan to drive to Alaska - I would rewire to a pair of batteries rather than the normal four. The charging system in these M1088's are marginal and the 12v side eventually needs more charging than the alternator puts out. Exception to that is that you drive it several times a week because otherwise the outside right (rear) battery gets low and the truck won't start. (click, clack).

Being able to jack the cab over will be useful for maintenance. Rebuild kits are available for the valve body and for the jack as well. Lots of threads on how to and where to get parts are here.

@Suprman is a good source for door handles. Not sure what he has in the shelf but he is a good reasonable source for LMTV parts. Another option might be to is to replace the "pot metal" door handle with the steel handles like tool pocket doors have on them. Also a thread on that as well. That might be your best plan - especially with you in the Body Shop business...

I have 1

First off I just want to say I am thoroughly impressed with the knowledge base on this forum and the caliber of guys that present it. I’ve been lurking for a few weeks and my hats off to ya. A Little background on me…I’m a Former AirForce F-15 avionics specialist on the flight line. Got out in 08 and started a job as a research and development Engineer doing hands on destructive and non destructive analysis on experimental aircraft for Sikorsky then to Boeing. From there I moved to AZ to do the same for caterpillar at their proving grounds, so I have a limited amount of experience on heavy equipment (short two years worth). That being said I now own a shop doing collision repair. I’ve been building rock crawlers for several years and building an over landing LMTV has been on my mind for quite some time. Without further ado here she is… she’s a 98 M1088 with 8k on the Odo. I already started tearing her down. There’s a hydraulic leak coming from a “junction box?” Behind the cab. Looks like the rear control arms need to be replaced but can they be rebuilt? CTIS seems to work but there’s a bad line on driver front wheel. Door handles are broken and seems to be a tire with a flat spot somewhere. Anything else I should do before I start cleaning and painting the chassis.

I have 1 good drivers side door handle available.
Also the improved A1 defroster panel with windows.

 

[Ronmar]

My truck was mostly stripped of door hardware when I got it, as they are high failure. I put toyota 4runner door handles on mine. Been running them for decades on multiple vehicles and have never broken one. Junkyards are full of them as they don’t ever break Fairly easy install, only a little panel cutting And fabbing a back side clamp bracket out of angle iron. I used a Dremel and a cutoff wheel to alter the door opening. Got a pair out of a junkyard and enough actuator rods to do 2 trucks for $25, and re-bent those rods to fit my application. About $40 per door for exterior handles and latches…

 

[BERZERKER888]

..and the most important and depressing fact... these trucks are absolute money pits ... 4-5 digits in your first year of ownership ( ask me how I know)... get the truck as close to "reliable".. before throwing wheel barrows full of cash at ..chuckle ..chuckle.." Overland Expedition Vehicle"... which is code for Glorified Mall Crawler..

these 25 year old FMTVs have been severely abused and mechanically neglected for their entire lives before being stripped and ultimately thrown into the auction abyss....

forget all the "fluffy* cosmetic do nothings... focus on reliability...

and hopefully you purchased your truck with a state title ( saves a boat load of headaches)... SF97s and EUC can be a real pita....

and closing on a optimistic note.. SS is a wealth of information.. but first download the TMs for the M1078 ... read them , live them , love them, before asking questions of this forum... sure the TMs are 1000's of page long ,but , like I, the more you read the more you'll learn..

M1078 TM's

Listed below are a number of the TM's for the M1078 trucks. To save them to your computer, right click, select "save as" m1078_TM 9-2320-365-10.pdf TM 9-2320-365-10 for the M1078 series trucks. m1078_TM 9-2320-365-20-1.pdf TM 9-2320-365-20-1 for the M1078 series trucks. m1078_TM...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[BERZERKER888]

join the LMTV/FMTV FB pages....

YouTube channels will help also:

EndlessAdventures , HelicoolsHelipad, Fastidious Restomods, Broke Overland, Ronmar, Call Me Colt


great guys and incredibly informative...

 

[BERZERKER888]

That makes me feel tons better

pull the drain plug from the transfer case...I had the same noise I thought was gear lash as well... it wasn't

it was the C6 Clutch Pack thrust bearing that grenaded ... $11k worth of retran and all is well