EXITNOONE
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ACEHIGH- you have to add that info to the m35a3 unite thread
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
No one's m35a3
- Thread starter EXITNOONE
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EXITNOONE
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NEW MIRRORS
this is a cell phone pic of the new telescopic mirrors i'm fabricating for my A3.
i'll have better pics as the fabrication continues.
when my A3 arrived, the loading ramp was so narrow, we dragged the driver side mirror mount against the wall adjoining the ramp. that caused one of the rusted out mirror swivel bolts to snap.
at that moment, i decided i was going to remove the overly complicated stock deuce tubular mirror mounts and simplify them with a telescopic system that is far less of an eye sore.
the new telescopic mounts use the stock mirrors and will be bolted to the upright windshield frame with a swing out hinge so that the mounts are still able to swing forward or backwards in the case of a collision.
the photo shows my rough welds before finish grinding.
i'm going to change the external steel tube to 20" instead of 15"
so that the convex mirror will sit exactly where it does on the stock upright round tube set up.
and the telescoping reach with go to 35" to obtain the stock reach.
materials used:
1" x 1" steel square tube .047 thickness. will be reinforced in final set up.
7/8" x 7/8" steel square tube .090 thickness.
the 1" steel square tube had to be a thinner wall to accept the 7/8" steel square tube with a perfect fit. i'll reinforce the 1" square tube with 1/4" wide bands of additional 1" square tube welded around the 1" square tube. this will give a mean aggressive look to the new mirror arms, but more importantly add rigidity and strength.
this is a cell phone pic of the new telescopic mirrors i'm fabricating for my A3.
i'll have better pics as the fabrication continues.
when my A3 arrived, the loading ramp was so narrow, we dragged the driver side mirror mount against the wall adjoining the ramp. that caused one of the rusted out mirror swivel bolts to snap.
at that moment, i decided i was going to remove the overly complicated stock deuce tubular mirror mounts and simplify them with a telescopic system that is far less of an eye sore.
the new telescopic mounts use the stock mirrors and will be bolted to the upright windshield frame with a swing out hinge so that the mounts are still able to swing forward or backwards in the case of a collision.
the photo shows my rough welds before finish grinding.
i'm going to change the external steel tube to 20" instead of 15"
so that the convex mirror will sit exactly where it does on the stock upright round tube set up.
and the telescoping reach with go to 35" to obtain the stock reach.
materials used:
1" x 1" steel square tube .047 thickness. will be reinforced in final set up.
7/8" x 7/8" steel square tube .090 thickness.
the 1" steel square tube had to be a thinner wall to accept the 7/8" steel square tube with a perfect fit. i'll reinforce the 1" square tube with 1/4" wide bands of additional 1" square tube welded around the 1" square tube. this will give a mean aggressive look to the new mirror arms, but more importantly add rigidity and strength.
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akonitony
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Well, if it turns out like the rest of your art work I've seen on your website, it will be unique, rugged, and improve the overall look of the deuce from any angle.
EXITNOONE
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AKONITONY- after a crazy work week, i can't wait to get back to finishing the mirrors. thank you for your positive comments. a lot of guys on here will have a problem with me changing the looks, but obviously, bobbing the A3 to begin with eliminates the stock issue...
i've also been searching for an A3 driver seat. i might actually end up removing the original and replacing it and the passenger bench seat with 2 air ride bus driver seats. the local wrecking yard has about a dozen of them in good shape for less than $100 a piece. and given the rigid stiff back of the A3 seat, even though it's billed as "ergonomic" i'm thinking the bus driver seats will be far more comfortable on long trips.
i've also been searching for an A3 driver seat. i might actually end up removing the original and replacing it and the passenger bench seat with 2 air ride bus driver seats. the local wrecking yard has about a dozen of them in good shape for less than $100 a piece. and given the rigid stiff back of the A3 seat, even though it's billed as "ergonomic" i'm thinking the bus driver seats will be far more comfortable on long trips.
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Nice Truck. More pitcher's
EXITNOONE
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CJ- thank you brother.... i'll have plenty of pics as the work progresses !!
EXITNOONE
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DOOR LOCKS
i just finished my version yesterday...
i wanted a lever deadbolt type of locking mechanism that didn't interfere with
or alter the stock door handle function and looks. and i wanted my door locks to be completely inconspicuous. when a wannabee thief or joyrider wants to get into your deuce, he's going to go straight for the cheap eye sore door locks which stick out like pink boots with bdu's and which are really designed for garage doors or storage sheds...
then the door lock idea came to me.
parts needed:
2 each- 2" long x 5/16 1/4" hex socket screws
2 each- 3" long 3/8" hardened bolts
4 each- 5/16 nuts
1 each- 1/4" allan wrench key
total cost $8
the big part of this version is the fabrication, but that was half the fun for me.
designing something completely unique and definitely secure.
i'll try to keep the explanation concise...
drill a hole through the cab pillar 10" up from the bottom of the door
the hole will go through the interior cab reinforcement plate
the hole in the cab pillar should be 1/4" to accept a 1/4" allan wrench
the hole in the reinforcement plate should be enlarged to 5/16" to accept the hex screw threads
cut a slot into the door jam and the door itself. of course they need to line up
insert the fabricated hex screw/dead bolt into the 5/16 hole and door jam slot
the fabricated hex screw/dead bolt is a hardened 3/8" bolt welded at 90º with the head of the bolt cut off
insert your hex key through the drilled 1/4" cab body hole to align and position the hex screw
thread 2 5/16" nuts onto the hex screw from inside the cab
adjust the hex screw and nuts so the lever arm fits in the door jam slot
weld the nuts in place to the interior cab reinforcement plate.
you now have a functional door lock.
close your door.
turn the allan key 1/2 turn clock or counter clockwise to open or lock your door
on my hex screws, i altered the head, so that a regular allan wrench, screw driver, or star key will not fit. the cab pillar hole is so small that needle nose pliers can not grab the hex screw to turn it.
the hex screw is also receded so far into the cab pillar that the 1/4" hole in the body looks just like a plain old bolt hole for some long ago removed part and nothing more.
tomorrow i'll be cutting my custom allan wrench hex key
and welding a ring on it so it can be placed on my keychain like a normal key.
it's like an updated skeleton key.
there's a photo of the original design i sketched out at 2 am when i had the epiphany... the only change was drilling through the cab reinforcement plate to allow for an easy spot to weld the nuts which hold the rotating hex screw. otherwise, the hex screw mount would have been a giant headache trying to weld that up inside the door jam behind the reinforcement plate.
i forgot to get a photo of the nuts welded to the interior cab reinforcement plate, but you can see the plate rivets from within the door jam slot, which should give you some orientation about the the mounting. you can also see the allan wrench going into the cab door pillar and into the hex screw. i welded a bead around the lock slots to strengthen the body steel. i'll be adding some thin cover plates to hide the mess. the lock slots are 1/2" wide x 3" tall.
next update... the custom mirrors.
i just finished my version yesterday...
i wanted a lever deadbolt type of locking mechanism that didn't interfere with
or alter the stock door handle function and looks. and i wanted my door locks to be completely inconspicuous. when a wannabee thief or joyrider wants to get into your deuce, he's going to go straight for the cheap eye sore door locks which stick out like pink boots with bdu's and which are really designed for garage doors or storage sheds...
then the door lock idea came to me.
parts needed:
2 each- 2" long x 5/16 1/4" hex socket screws
2 each- 3" long 3/8" hardened bolts
4 each- 5/16 nuts
1 each- 1/4" allan wrench key
total cost $8
the big part of this version is the fabrication, but that was half the fun for me.
designing something completely unique and definitely secure.
i'll try to keep the explanation concise...
drill a hole through the cab pillar 10" up from the bottom of the door
the hole will go through the interior cab reinforcement plate
the hole in the cab pillar should be 1/4" to accept a 1/4" allan wrench
the hole in the reinforcement plate should be enlarged to 5/16" to accept the hex screw threads
cut a slot into the door jam and the door itself. of course they need to line up
insert the fabricated hex screw/dead bolt into the 5/16 hole and door jam slot
the fabricated hex screw/dead bolt is a hardened 3/8" bolt welded at 90º with the head of the bolt cut off
insert your hex key through the drilled 1/4" cab body hole to align and position the hex screw
thread 2 5/16" nuts onto the hex screw from inside the cab
adjust the hex screw and nuts so the lever arm fits in the door jam slot
weld the nuts in place to the interior cab reinforcement plate.
you now have a functional door lock.
close your door.
turn the allan key 1/2 turn clock or counter clockwise to open or lock your door
on my hex screws, i altered the head, so that a regular allan wrench, screw driver, or star key will not fit. the cab pillar hole is so small that needle nose pliers can not grab the hex screw to turn it.
the hex screw is also receded so far into the cab pillar that the 1/4" hole in the body looks just like a plain old bolt hole for some long ago removed part and nothing more.
tomorrow i'll be cutting my custom allan wrench hex key
and welding a ring on it so it can be placed on my keychain like a normal key.
it's like an updated skeleton key.
there's a photo of the original design i sketched out at 2 am when i had the epiphany... the only change was drilling through the cab reinforcement plate to allow for an easy spot to weld the nuts which hold the rotating hex screw. otherwise, the hex screw mount would have been a giant headache trying to weld that up inside the door jam behind the reinforcement plate.
i forgot to get a photo of the nuts welded to the interior cab reinforcement plate, but you can see the plate rivets from within the door jam slot, which should give you some orientation about the the mounting. you can also see the allan wrench going into the cab door pillar and into the hex screw. i welded a bead around the lock slots to strengthen the body steel. i'll be adding some thin cover plates to hide the mess. the lock slots are 1/2" wide x 3" tall.
next update... the custom mirrors.
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Last edited:
EXITNOONE
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updated photo of mirror mounted... better photos coming soon...
note the square notch detail on the main arms. the mirror is at it's shortest extension here.
about 21". i can extend the mirrors out to 30" when necessary, if hauling a long high trailer.
the mirror arm assembly is completely removable.
the arms are inserted into 1/14" .090 square tube which is welded to the upright windshield frame.
the 1 1/4" square tube is 3" long. the 1" mirror arms are held in place with 5/16" straight pins or carriage bolts.
i needed the easy removability due to the narrow door at my warehouse.
also, if trekking through brush, the mirrors can be quickly removed without tools from inside the cab
to avoid getting snagged. just take out the pins and remove the mirror assemblies.
note the square notch detail on the main arms. the mirror is at it's shortest extension here.
about 21". i can extend the mirrors out to 30" when necessary, if hauling a long high trailer.
the mirror arm assembly is completely removable.
the arms are inserted into 1/14" .090 square tube which is welded to the upright windshield frame.
the 1 1/4" square tube is 3" long. the 1" mirror arms are held in place with 5/16" straight pins or carriage bolts.
i needed the easy removability due to the narrow door at my warehouse.
also, if trekking through brush, the mirrors can be quickly removed without tools from inside the cab
to avoid getting snagged. just take out the pins and remove the mirror assemblies.
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Last edited:
akonitony
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- Ohatchee, AL & High Springs, FL
DOOR LOCKS
i just finished my version yesterday...
i wanted my door locks to be completely inconspicuous. when a wannabee thief or joyrider wants to get into your deuce, he's going to go straight for the cheap eye sore door locks which stick out like pink boots with bdu's...QUOTE]
So... your saying I shouldn't wear my pink boots with my BDUs? What if the BDUs are pink or a really fabulous mauve?
akonitony
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I just thought of a way to slightly improve your lock. Rather than a hex key, which is fairly common, what if you welded on a keyed lugnut like that found on wheel anti-theft lug nuts. Then you would have a unique pattern that could not be duplicated.
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You know that aint a bad idea. I have one of those somewhere in the pile....now if I can only remember where...
akonitony
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I'm full of it, er, them! Thanks for the agreement. Only problem I see is the lock setup seems like it would be easy to turn with little or no resistance, so anyone with a flat-tip screwdriver of the right size could jam it into either the hex or anti-theft lug nut and get enough bite to turn it a little. So now I am thinking what could be done to either increase the resistance enough to make it impossible to turn without the correct engagement apparattus, or, maybe install a regular deadbolt lock like one used in a house or building door. That's what I's thinking, now dat I is thinking...
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}
EXITNOONE
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AKONITONY- thanks for the laugh. 
after a long day of work, a snappy come back is appreciated !! i hear all the truly up to date fashionistas are wearing ruby red boots with their bdu's this year. it's all the rage for fall 2010. you'll be the life of any thanksgiving party.
if you notice in my post, i mention that i altered the hex socket in such a way that no regular hex, star, phillips, or flat screwdriver will be able to turn the hex screw.
the problem with using a locking lug nut is the size of the hole needed to accommodate the key.
the hole for my set up is only 1/4". a locking lug nut is usually someting like 9/16". that would make the hole in the cab door pillar way too noticeable. and you'd have to keep the lug nut key on you, which would get annoying in your pocket. comparatively my 1/4" hex key will be able to be looped on my keychain like any other key.
as far as the turn resistance... one of the side effects of welding the nuts is that the heat make them warp slightly. when they cool, the hex screw becomes hard to turn without a solid connection and some leverage force applied.
if you think of any other draw backs or possible flaws to my design, let me know.
it could help me avoid any unforseen situations that i might not have thought of yet with this design.
after a long day of work, a snappy come back is appreciated !! i hear all the truly up to date fashionistas are wearing ruby red boots with their bdu's this year. it's all the rage for fall 2010. you'll be the life of any thanksgiving party.if you notice in my post, i mention that i altered the hex socket in such a way that no regular hex, star, phillips, or flat screwdriver will be able to turn the hex screw.
the problem with using a locking lug nut is the size of the hole needed to accommodate the key.
the hole for my set up is only 1/4". a locking lug nut is usually someting like 9/16". that would make the hole in the cab door pillar way too noticeable. and you'd have to keep the lug nut key on you, which would get annoying in your pocket. comparatively my 1/4" hex key will be able to be looped on my keychain like any other key.
as far as the turn resistance... one of the side effects of welding the nuts is that the heat make them warp slightly. when they cool, the hex screw becomes hard to turn without a solid connection and some leverage force applied.
if you think of any other draw backs or possible flaws to my design, let me know.
it could help me avoid any unforseen situations that i might not have thought of yet with this design.
Last edited:
EXITNOONE
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MIRRORS & SEATS
the build is getting near completion.
here are some better photos of the finished mirrors. still unpainted, but the arms are sanded down, and the reflecting high and low light makes the square notches look unaligned, but they are true.
the air ride bus seat is placed in the cab for a test fit. looks like it's going to work perfectly.
now i'll have lumbar and leg support and be able to lean back. the stock A3 seat is literally straight up and down at the back. not too comfortable on long drives. the air seat head rest isn't attached, but will be after the final install of course.
mounting to the cab floor will be with 3/4" bolts x 1" long. one 3/4" nut will be welded to the floor of the cab, and 1 nut will be welded to the seat frame on all 4 corners. the nuts will be threaded together until i weld the floor nut in place. after that, i'll remove the bolt, and the seat will easily lift off and be perfectly aligned on final re-install.
the build is getting near completion.
here are some better photos of the finished mirrors. still unpainted, but the arms are sanded down, and the reflecting high and low light makes the square notches look unaligned, but they are true.
the air ride bus seat is placed in the cab for a test fit. looks like it's going to work perfectly.
now i'll have lumbar and leg support and be able to lean back. the stock A3 seat is literally straight up and down at the back. not too comfortable on long drives. the air seat head rest isn't attached, but will be after the final install of course.
mounting to the cab floor will be with 3/4" bolts x 1" long. one 3/4" nut will be welded to the floor of the cab, and 1 nut will be welded to the seat frame on all 4 corners. the nuts will be threaded together until i weld the floor nut in place. after that, i'll remove the bolt, and the seat will easily lift off and be perfectly aligned on final re-install.
