No start - Info please!

[CATONY]

Hello Fellas,

I'll do my best to make a long story short.
I have a 1992 M998 HMMWV with 19K miles. I received the unit in good working condition or seemed to be. After a very light 20 miles around the neighborhood I had a no start issue. I had the unit jumped thinking it was the alternator and needed to recharge. Once I drove around for about 30 minutes I parked the car and it would not restart.
I checked the batteries and one of them had a bad cell, I replaced it. Still NO START. NO CRANK. NO CLICK, NOTHING.
I have read all the posts that relate to this issue which could be the Glow plugs, TSU, PCB or Grounding issue.
No one has mentioned a STARTER ISSUE?
There is a small possibility some idiot in the apt complex messed with the RUN START and left it in the RUN position.
One more thing right before I parked the car for the last time, literally one block from my house there was a loud squeal upon acceleration???
What should I do first?
1. Check Glow Plugs
2.TSU
3. PCB
Any and all advice will be much appreciated. What part numbers do I or should I look to replace?
Where is the best Place to find the parts?
Should I look into any other issues or just start there?
Thanks again and I look forward to hearing from you.
What exact tool do I need to remove the Glow Plugs?

-Anthony

 

[DatGuyC]

does your wait to start light flash when you flip it from off to run?

 

[CATONY]

Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[CATONY]

"There are alot of little tricks you could find there. As far as the glow plug system a good way to trouble shoot it is that when you turn the start switch to run and you have no wait light the PCB box is bad, when it flashes the controller is bad, when the light comes on like it should and there is no draw on the voltmeter the glow plugs are bad, and when the wait light comes on for a second and goes off it also means the glow plugs are bad. The glow plug system cannot be bypassed cause the relay is enclosed in the PCB box."
Part # for the PCB and Controller?

 

[CATONY]

I have a 1992 M998 HMMWV
And I'm having the same issue many others have. Car would not start and there was no wait light. I changed all the glow plugs and one was definitely bad. That didn't fix the issue. I replaced the PCB with a new S3 EESS Natron smart start white label box and the GPC that came with it. Now the Wait light just blinks and goes off between the 10th and 23rd blink. Car still won't start and the starter just goes click click click.
I have two new batteries in the car as well.
Do you have any advice?
I have read the white label smart start box I bought doesn't work sometimes for whatever reason.
What should I try next?
Could it be the starter?
Anthony

 

[gcbennet]

If the box, glow plugs, and batteries are new your problem may be a bad ground or connection somewhere. Disconnect the batteries then locate, thoroughly inspect, and clean every ground and electrical connection point you can find. These trucks are horrible for grounds and corrosion. Don't take forgranted that a connector appears clean and should work because i've personally found corrosion at points where the wire itself crimps into the connector, so push back the rubber and check in there too. As well, search for wires that may have been repaired previously because i've found several corroded splices on my truck that have created havok. DO install the 'octopus' ground you'll keep hearing about on here. The pros on this site such as retiredwarhorses have dealt with these issues countless times over the years so take their advice and direction as gospel. To find the source of your current issue you'll have to use a multi-meter in conjunction with the troubleshooting guide in the unit maint TM book 1 to help narrow down the source. In my case i chased cables and connectors with my meter to where i eventually found the power stopped and discovered a broken/corroded wire within a cannon plug. It's time consuming and frustrating, but will save you lots of money in the end because most will just opt to circumvent the FI process and keep replacing parts till the problem goes away.

 

[CATONY]

Thank you very much for the info. Not sure what the Octopus ground is exactly?
Do I use the multimeter while the battery is connected or disconnected? Am I checking for DC voltage or continuity?

 

[gcbennet]

The 'octopus' ground is either purchased aftermarket or self-manufactured that's supposed to solve the poor grounding issues inherent to this truck. It starts at the stud at the LH rear of the engine block and branches out to one of the S3 mounting bolts, alternator, starter, and dash ground in behind the cluster. Kascar has them and others choose to just make their own. When i was chasing my open circuit issue i had the batteries hooked up and was looking for where the power stopped. If you play with the power you have to make sure you disconnect the batteries before undoing/reinstalling cannon plugs, etc otherwise you could fry something.