- 2,168
- 3,607
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Search for 240-14201
I bought a pair of them about a year ago. Already used 1 in one of my 831s. Works great.
My spare...
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Obscure question, MEP-831A
- Thread starter Fungal
- Start date
I bought a pair of them about a year ago. Already used 1 in one of my 831s. Works great.
My spare...
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- Location
- Pensacola, FL
Not sure why that didn't come up for me. What search terms did you use?
NVM... I see it. Where did you get that particular number?
NVM... I see it. Where did you get that particular number?
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- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
It was about a year ago but the listing indicated may have indicated it was for an 831 or it listed the 831 starter number. I don't recall specifically.
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- 1,153
- 93
- Location
- Wapakoneta, Ohio
240-14201 Electrical Engine Starter
240-14201 Electrical Engine Starter NSN 2920-01-452-8409
nationalstocknumber.info
240-14201 Cross Reference
- 114362-77990
- S-8566
- 114362-77019
- S-8424
- 114362-77019
- 114362-77991
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294207371879 $70
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Nice...
That gets a bookmark.
That gets a bookmark.
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
When ever ordering parts in the web, try and find out if the part has more than one part number. Also try looking for the NSN. Often that works also.
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- Pensacola, FL
So we are making progress!
Received my replacement starter/solenoid assembly from Ebay, and promptly set about removing the old one. It literally smelled like electric death once I got it out (VERY strong odor of the Magic Smoke (TM) that makes all electronics function)
(BTW, thanks to the members here who assisted, or offered to sell me one cheaper than Ebay).
I swapped in the new starter/solenoid, and hooked everything back up. I was able to attach the batteries... without a shower of sparks this time... and ran through some quick diagnostics, following the troubleshooting procedure in the manual.
Once I clicked the switch to start, I was actually able to get it to crank... though it wouldn't start.
And I noticed something else.
Note the diesel fuel leaking from the injector.
I put a paper towel there to soak it up... I assume it needs new seals around the injector? Or would you replace that whole assembly?
Received my replacement starter/solenoid assembly from Ebay, and promptly set about removing the old one. It literally smelled like electric death once I got it out (VERY strong odor of the Magic Smoke (TM) that makes all electronics function)
(BTW, thanks to the members here who assisted, or offered to sell me one cheaper than Ebay).
I swapped in the new starter/solenoid, and hooked everything back up. I was able to attach the batteries... without a shower of sparks this time... and ran through some quick diagnostics, following the troubleshooting procedure in the manual.
Once I clicked the switch to start, I was actually able to get it to crank... though it wouldn't start.
And I noticed something else.
Note the diesel fuel leaking from the injector.
I put a paper towel there to soak it up... I assume it needs new seals around the injector? Or would you replace that whole assembly?
- 2,541
- 2,090
- 113
- Location
- Efland, NC
Replacement pumps are pretty cheap. The quick and easy solution is to replace it.
Also, there are no seals in the pump. It is precision machined. You can pull it apart and see if someone else has made some mischief in there.
Also, there are no seals in the pump. It is precision machined. You can pull it apart and see if someone else has made some mischief in there.
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The injectors I see online seem to have a gasket associated with them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155770281975
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- Location
- West greenwich/RI
The part in question is the metering pump, not the injector, the other thing is that the gasket for the pump has nothing to do with fuel, it's for oil.
If you are leaking fuel at the metering pump it has to be coming from the pump itself or the line. It can not be leaking fuel from under the pump.
Any potential leak fuel leak in that area will leak fuel into the crankcase , it would not drip on the outside of the motor.
I would first check the lines, and the fitting on top of the pump.
Chances are something is either loose or damaged, but I'd locate the leak before buying a new pump.
If you are leaking fuel at the metering pump it has to be coming from the pump itself or the line. It can not be leaking fuel from under the pump.
Any potential leak fuel leak in that area will leak fuel into the crankcase , it would not drip on the outside of the motor.
I would first check the lines, and the fitting on top of the pump.
Chances are something is either loose or damaged, but I'd locate the leak before buying a new pump.
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Interesting... explained like that, it makes perfect sense.
2Pbfeet
Well-known member
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- 816
- 93
- Location
- Mt. Hamilton, CA
If you do remove the pump, I would make sure that on re-installation you get the pin on the pump back into the "U" shaped yoke to engage the governor. Lots of videos on how to do it available. You can see the yoke by loosening the nut below the pump and removing the small trapezoidal plate there. If someone has been into the engine before you, I think that it might be worth checking, after you locate the leak, which are often on the high pressure hard line fitting area. A little dirt or vibration can loosen the line/fitting enough to leak.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
All the best,
2Pbfeet
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Found the leak. Here's the injector, side-view:
And here's the leak point (circled in red):
And here's the leak point (circled in red):
- 2,632
- 6,056
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
You should be able to use 2 wrenches, hold the lower fitting and loosen the upper nut for the line.
Then tighten the lower fitting, then tighten the line nut.
Hopefully that will be all you need.
Then tighten the lower fitting, then tighten the line nut.
Hopefully that will be all you need.
- 2,541
- 2,090
- 113
- Location
- Efland, NC
Also, it’s obvious that there has been a wrench on that pump.
I hope tightening the top is all you need.
I hope tightening the top is all you need.
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Yeah... that was my thought too. Somebody has cranked on that before.
It's a cheap part. I'm probably better off just replacing it.
2Pbfeet
Well-known member
- 450
- 816
- 93
- Location
- Mt. Hamilton, CA
It's a cheap part, but fiddly, unless you buy the OEM, which is not that cheap. If it was me, I would first try tightening it, and then if that doesn't work, clean the outside, open the joint up and cleaning the surfaces with carb cleaner and trying again before buying another. I have a drawer of "almost" on specification cheap pumps that all leak somewhere just a little, just in case I absolutely need a pump in an emergency.
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Yeah... I bought an OEM one, rather than ChinaMart.
When tolerances matter, you don't go Chicom.
When tolerances matter, you don't go Chicom.
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OK... more incremental progress. Removed the old injector:
Side-by-side with the new one:
And no leaks once installed!
Still won't start. It'll crank now, and no more fuel leaks... but will not start
Video:
Side-by-side with the new one:
And no leaks once installed!
Still won't start. It'll crank now, and no more fuel leaks... but will not start
Video:
- 2,168
- 3,607
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Your actuator isn't lifting off the magnet when you engage the starter!
By staying on the magnet fuel is prevented from being sent from the new metering pump to the injector.
It's cranking kind of slow. Maybe not enough voltage to cause the governor controller to pop the actuator off the magnet or maybe a bad governor controller or other issue causing it to not lift off.
Try manually lifting the arm off the magnet and then try starting it.
By staying on the magnet fuel is prevented from being sent from the new metering pump to the injector.
It's cranking kind of slow. Maybe not enough voltage to cause the governor controller to pop the actuator off the magnet or maybe a bad governor controller or other issue causing it to not lift off.
Try manually lifting the arm off the magnet and then try starting it.