gimpyrobb
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Filter assembly.
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Sent you a PM Gimp.Filter assembly.
Thanks Floridianson. The wife is doing better now, but I have to admit it got pretty scary there for a while.The outher thought was rember back in 07 when Mike at OD Iron had the remote filter set up for sale. If there was something like that you could have a check valve on the incoming line.
Hope things get better at your house Rusty no body needs that worrie.
It wasn't needed on Mike's setup because they were not mounted up-side-down. The only oil that would drain back to the sump is what was in the hose. Thats what takes so long with the stock setup, you are waiting for those monster cans to fill with oil.The outher thought was rember back in 07 when Mike at OD Iron had the remote filter set up for sale. If there was something like that you could have a check valve on the incoming line.
Gimp, how often do you short cycle the filter changes? What are the specs on the filters you use?Gimp, didn't you say you used short spin on filters?
If so how doe's that work out?
NAPA 1060s, I use them as well.I do have the smaller cans, the number escapes me right now. It works well. I don't have a set schedule for changing, if I drive the truck a lot, I try to change the filters twice a year, if its not drive a lot, once a year. If I let the truck sit for a day or two, not much oil is lost during the filter change.
It would be interesting to find out if the Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly you have from the tractor has a one-way valve built in.I have a Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly like the one shown in Post #73 from a white tractor that has the "same" engine as the Deuce. These came with spin on filters from the factory and someday I will swap the one over on my M109. Too bad I do not have the assembly close by, I would take pictures and post them of that as well.
Oddshot, do you know what size the engine block oil passage to the oil filter housing is ? The housing oil passages are 3/4", but I need to know the engine block oil passage sizes. The ones that match up to the filter housing. I think I found a simple way to add a check valve in the filter housing.More stuff:
The thickness of the Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing where the oil inlet hole passes through is 3/8".
The outside wall thickness appears to be about 1/4".
I can insert an object (a socket) roughly the diameter of the inlet hole about 2 inches before I begin to touch a wall.
I think there might be enough room to increase the inlet hole diameter by about 1/8" safely for threading or machining purposes.
Something quite large can be made to fit into that oil passage.
Rusty,Oddshot, do you know what size the engine block oil passage to the oil filter housing is ?
Your sure it's 11/16" and not 3/4" ? If it really is 11/16" then we have a winner !!!Rusty,
Belay my last PM ... this is too important to wait until Wednesday.
The oil passage from the oil pump to the oil filter housing is machined rather than cast; its sides are a smooth finish.
The diameter is 11/16 inch.
This oil passage extends 1 7/16th inch into the block. It is intersected at the end by another passage coming up from the oil pump. I could not measure the diameter of that passage way but I could feel it with my finger and it appears to be the same diameter (11/16 inch).
This gives us a depth of 3/4 inch to insert something without it impinging on the intersecting oil passage.
I wish you EVERY success.
Good hunting.
Ted
There will be 2 check valves installed. One will allow fluid into the oil filter housing, the other will allow fluid into the engine block. Both will have a "open pressure" of 15 PSI . This will keep the oil in the housing and the filters after shut-down.Are we looking for check valves or just low pressure valves? Aren't we trying to keep oil in the cans after shut off? So one(the supply)might get a check valve, but the one that continues on to the motor would need to be a low pressure valve, or the oil will just drain forward, right?
That's what I got.Your sure it's 11/16" and not 3/4" ? If it really is 11/16" then we have a winner !!!