Oil filter cans that retain oil?

[rustystud]

I'm not buying squat. I already have anti drain back filters.

Then why do you care what where trying to do with installing check valves in the filter housing ?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Just let it go boys, I'm sure he was trying to help.

 

[JasonS]

I'm a fan of oil filters that drain. Just think of an oil pan heater that will then heat all the oil for an easy start in the Winter without bypassing the filters, where the oil may otherwise be to viscous to flow. IMHO, the reason they were designed to drain in the first place.

There is no evidence that this was a design intent. Remember, both the oil cooler and filters have bypass valves to deal with cold viscous oil. It isn't necessary for the oil trapped to drain and be heated.

 

[JasonS]

Then why do you care what where trying to do with installing check valves in the filter housing ?

I appreciate what you are trying to do but isn't what you are trying to do the same as what is already provided by the anti drainback filter? What would the opening pressure of the anti drainback be?

 

[oddshot]

I appreciate what you are trying to do but isn't what you are trying to do the same as what is already provided by the anti drainback filter?

Probably. But it just might be a couple hundred bucks cheaper.

 

[welldigger]

I appreciate what you are trying to do but isn't what you are trying to do the same as what is already provided by the anti drainback filter? What would the opening pressure of the anti drainback be?

On a modern filter the antidrain valve requires maybe 1 psi to open. Probably not even that much. It's just a rubber flap that serves as a check valve.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I appreciate what you are trying to do but isn't what you are trying to do the same as what is already provided by the anti drainback filter? What would the opening pressure of the anti drainback be?

The filter will let the oil drain forward, then you have an empty filter. I know, most of the damage is done prior to me owning it, but I can try to make it better...

 

[rustystud]

I appreciate what you are trying to do but isn't what you are trying to do the same as what is already provided by the anti drainback filter? What would the opening pressure of the anti drainback be?

For those who do not want to convert to spin-on filters this will be an engine saver.

 

[rustystud]

Found out the cost today, $36.00 ea. It will take 4 to 6 weeks before they arrive though. I went and ordered the 3 PSI crack pressure valves. We'll see if they hold pressure.

 

[oddshot]

Any pictures or catalog reference?

 

[rustystud]

Any pictures or catalog reference?

I have tried to upload the spec sheet for 2 days now, and it will not go. I don't know if it's this site or my computer.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I-D-10-T

error

 

[rustystud]

View attachment Scan0027.pdf It finally uploaded !!!View attachment Scan0027.pdf

No Chris, it was not an IDIOT error. I had a program trying to update itself without my knowledge. I just deleted it !

 

[gimpyrobb]

HEHE!

j/k

 

[rustystud]

Hey Gimp, are you going to reply to the PM I sent you ?
Never mind, I see you just did.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Just did. Sorry, busy day today.

 

[rustystud]

Finally got the check valves today. They fit perfectly ! The only problem is the size of the opening. The oil galley holes are 3/4" . The check valve opening is 5/16" . According to the chart these valves are suppose to flow 26 GPM at 100psi. That should be enough theoretically. I'm just not sure now looking at them if they will be OK for our system. I didn't seat the valves fully, if I had I would not be able to get them out without damaging them. The seals are "Viton" and "nylon" . Lube them up and pop them with a rubber mallet and they would be good to go.
The one in pic 3 and 4 is where I would need to drill a NPT hole and put a long plug in it so the valve would seat against it as there is nothing stopping it from falling all the way in. At this point I'm thinking this is a failed experiment. Just get spin-on filters and be done with it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

What about using a piloted bit to drill a flange into the steel?

All you would need is a lip about an eighth deep right?

 

[rustystud]

What about using a piloted bit to drill a flange into the steel?

All you would need is a lip about an eighth deep right?

They fit perfectly. The reason I didn't install them all the way is I wouldn't be able to get them out without damaging them. The only one that needs any modification is the entry one. It needs a shoulder to land against or else it will go straight into the housing. The exit one will be pushed out towards the housing which has a smaller hole in the block. No need to do anything there. Drilling out a NPT hole is no problem. After the hole is drilled and tapped I would just install a 1/4" pipe plug with the end cut down a bit for the valve to set on.
The problem is going to be the 5/16" hole in the valve. Will it flow enough oil for our system ? Is there a reason the original holes are 3/4" ? What is the flow requirement needed at this point in the system ? I know the rest of the engine only needs 24 GPM flow, but was there a reason this area is so large ? It has me concerned. If the hole in the relief valve had been 1/2" I believe that would be fine but 5/16" ?