Oil Pressure Gauge Sender Location

[cmroles]

Has anyone modified the "T" block for the Oil Sampling Valve to mount an oil pressure sender?

What I'm thinking about is scrapping the whole pipe and sampling valve and having the square "T" block (the part that's actually mounted in the oil cooler line) drilled and tapped to accept the sender. I'm just curious if somebody has already done this and how it worked out. Is there any reason why this wouldn't be a good location for an accurate reading?

 

[Dave87]

I'm not sure as to how accurate that would be. Why don't you just put a T where the stock sending unit is or just eliminate it all together?

 

[acesneights1]

I wonder if that block would supply enough oil for a turbo ?? I was wondering what that thing was for. Thanks.

 

[unaffiliated]

If I am not mistaken, the factory oil sender is for an oil pressure light, or should I say "lack of oil pressure" light. It only comes on when the oil pressure is abnormally low or no oil pressure at all. That in my opinion is really a stupid thing to have. They should just call it a "walk" light, because when the light comes on you will be walking soon or at least making a cell phone call for a tow truck. I would just toss the original sender and install your aftermarket gauge sender there.

 

[cmroles]

I would just toss the original sender and install your aftermarket gauge sender there.

I thought about this, but I hate leaving an idiot light there that doesn't function anymore.

One thought I had was to try pulling out the idiot light and find a gauge that would fit into that hole. I'm just weird about leaving stuff installed but not hooked up.

My other possibility is to install a gauge and leave the idiot light installed as a backup.

 

[truck1]

I put a short nipple then a T fitting on my 1028,with the stock sending unit horizontal and the new electric sending unit vertical.Works great and was an easy install.Idiot light still functions as well as the lighted auxilary gauge.I like being able to monitor oil,temp,and rpm's(tinytach) in this rig.It is 26 years old after all.

 

[cmroles]

I put a short nipple then a T fitting on my 1028,with the stock sending unit horizontal and the new electric sending unit vertical.Works great and was an easy install.Idiot light still functions as well as the lighted auxilary gauge.I like being able to monitor oil,temp,and rpm's(tinytach) in this rig.It is 26 years old after all.

What did you do to get the wiring to the new gauge? Did you just drill through the firewall and use a grommet?

 

[truck1]

Nope,it is only 1 wire through the firewall.I ran it through the speedocable grommet.I used a VDO lighted gauge,0-100 psi.3 wires -1 to the sending unit,ground,and hot wire to a circuit that is hot after the ignition starts the vehicle.Just make sure you get the right sending unit to match the oil gauge.I went with NAPA.I like the electric unit-easier install,and no mess if the oil line breaks in the cab like on a mechanical unit.

 

[Dukeboy]

I plumbed a mechanical oil guage to the sample block and I believe it to be accurate. I think you should be able to rig something up for an electric guage provided the block is grounded well. There may be better locations however as listed above.

 

[biggestc69]

I unplugged the dummy light sender and hooked up an autometer mechanical gauge. I like being able to see whats going on as opposed to trusting a near 30 year old dummy light.

 

[Westech]

has anyone ever installed a stock Oil pressure gauge? LMC has them for 49 bucks.
Are you able to just slap in the gauge and replace the sending unit?

 

[unaffiliated]

I wish it were that easy. The CUCV instrument cluster is completely different from the one with gauges. There are some thread where people have done the mods but it is not a simple thing.

 

[steelandcanvas]

My other possibility is to install a gauge and leave the idiot light installed as a backup.

Best idea yet, IMO.

 

[Mainsail]

For coming through the firewall: Look behind the E-brake for where the hood release cable goes through. Just below that there should be a black plastic cap about the size of a half-dollar- pull that out and a hollow plug will remain. Now go around to the engine compartment and look in the same place- you should see a black rubber nipple. DON’T PULL IT OUT; instead, snip the nipple off with some wire-cutters and you’ll have a perfectly grommeted hole for running an 8-guage wire or oil line.

 

[richingalveston]

Here is a pic of the back of my civy cluster that was rewired for those thinking about it. The existing plug has to be rewired and some lights such as the gen 2 has to be rewired completely. It is a lot of work but I really like the gauges. I also moved my 24V gauge to the cluster in the blank hole and installed red led lights.
I left all of the idiot light sending units in place and connected them to the check engine light in the cluster. If I am not looking at the gauges, the light will catch my attention. attached is a pic of how I T'd the oil pressure sending units to be able to use both.

To remove the sending unit you must purchase a special socket for this work.