• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Onan mep-017-a troubleshooting

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,901
24,496
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Well, I have seen worse. But its been a while. Take a gander at the wire numbers. You are going to have to make a jumper or two for the new AVR, I think. Look at the schematic on the AVR and then the one in the TM.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,627
6,034
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Its 00:00 here, so I may drop out soon. Old people need their sleep.

Still on the computer at midnight, shortly after tripling your normal nightly beer consumption! You're still doing better than some of us (slightly) younger folks..... 2 Sam Cold Snaps and I was asleep by 23:00 Friday.
 
i think this may be past my comfort zone, anyone know if a repair shop would take something like this? theres multiple electrical issues, and things that i have no experience in. i do hvac for a living, but i havent done anything like this before, it doesnt help that there is no videos of anyone else working on these things. of course its nice to have the documentation that i do have, but its a bit hard to follow. while the engine is fine, the only signs of life from the electrical is a few lines of 15v to the avr and 30-50v on the outputs. if anyone has a simular or same unit, please please reach out to me, id love some help with what should have what resistance, and how to wire the new avr i have in hopes that somehow, it can help narrow down issues. i have wierd continuity issues, and strange reading, etc, and with no reference of what its supposed to be, im kinda just walking in the dark here.
 
what does work;
the battery charges
the guages all have movement
the electric start and emergency start work
panel lights work
automatic choke works
oil shutoff works
remote start sometimes works

l1 has no continuity to anything and reads 0v
l2 reads 37v
l3 reads 35v
l4 reads 47 volts
the convenience outlets read 38v
the avr seems to have a range from 15v to 21v


a question for those a bit smarter than me, im going to disconnect the generators main harness, what i want is a wire diagram and which pins i need to put +24v on in order to excite the field, and what pins to test to see if the generator is capable of generating power, next i want to know exactly where the diode bank is on the actual generator head. at this point im doubting whether the stator is even good. any help is greatly appreciated. im new to the world of military equipment so all this redundant components have me at a loss.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,627
6,034
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
I'd say most likely No, you won't find a typical generator repair or small engine shop that will go anywhere near any military generator with a 10' hot stick ( or any other Pole )
Most likely even if you could find someone to work on it, paying them to fix it will not be worth while.
You'd be better off putting that money into a better generator to use as a starting point.
I think it's either fix it yourself ( with the aid of the guru's here )
Or push it aside and start over with a better machine.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
485
1,148
93
Location
Wapakoneta, Ohio
the issue is either i have to fix it, or it has to go either to a scrapyard, or sold as is, space is a limitation, the main reason why im even bothering with it, is the fact that the engine only has 30 hours, and i need 3 phase.
how much 3 phase output do you need might be the better question in order to get you the right generator or keep working on this one.
 
how much 3 phase output do you need might be the better question in order to get you the right generator or keep working on this one.
Not very much. I work on commercial ice cream machines and ice machines, and many units use 10-15 amps 3ph. Some even lower, but the reason I purchased this one is it was cheap. I’m not looking to spend any more then 1000 or so on one.
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
446
805
93
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
At home, not interested in any phase converters, as I plan on moving soon. My requirements are under 600lbs, under 1000 dollars, and preferably gasoline, but would make diesel work. I’d really want to fix this one as it’s already in my yard, and I already have money invested.
For what you need it for, I would second the phase converter suggestion, but not a rotary phase converter, a VFD, which for 15A will weigh about 7lbs and be 12"x6x"x6". E.g.

If you buy something that isn't the absolute cheapest one, it is likely to last longer, but you will still get out the door for a lot less than $1,000.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks