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Operation "URGENT RESTORATION"

m38inmaine

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Care package from TX today, all parts in stock, speedy shipping and no overcharges, can't ask for any better service. Mark, thanks for bailing me out again. Now back to the garage.
 

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mkcoen

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Glad to help out. It'd be nice to be a little closer and I could just finish cleaning the shop out. Until then, one box at a time.
 

m38inmaine

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My goal is to have it cranking by the weekend, I have to jerry rig a fuel supply as my tanks are off. I'm going to crank it off the slave cable for power. I would love to have a FMTV but for now I'll have to settle on the old goat.
 

m38inmaine

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Master cylinder installed, blew out the lines from the master cylinder end, not much air at the carrier so I detached the quick release and tried from there, still not much so I reversed and blew in the axle fitting and that started clearing the lines so back and forth a few times and now a good strong stream of air. Luckily it had only seen dot 5 and it was coming out clean. May bleed them tomorrow or Monday. Engine stop cable installed and throttle linkage finished and adjusted. Repaired the under front fender wiring harnesses so those are done. Last wire to repair is the fuel tank sending unit wire. Air duct installed and LH panel in place. My plan is to fire the engine tomorrow, if it lights I will fill the cooling system and run it and see if I can move it under it's own power.
 

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Another Ahab

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Last edited:

m38inmaine

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Ok so she runs and it was quite exciting and as Mark said they fire pretty quick, so now the AAR. So my fuel supply was a jerry can with a return line and an outboard motor fuel hose for the supply. I chose it as it has a priming bulb which made it easy to fill the filters and prime the system. As the bulb got tight and she was primed I noticed a bad leak from the cold start filter, so I shoved a rag under it and started the engine. I used the slave cable for power as my tanks are off and no place to easily set the batteries. Also saw a smaller leak where the return line leaves the head, this is the same line that supplies the cold start. As you can see at the bottom of the filter it either chaffed or corroded a hole in the bottom corner. There is a TB describing eliminating the filter to allow for longer starters to be installed so I am going a step further and eliminating the cold start as it looks pretty trashed anyway. As easy as these start I doubt it would ever get used and I don't plan on traveling to the arctic any time soon. I pulled the mess off and all I will need to delete it is a 1/4" cap and a cap for 3/16 flare fitting.

So I did not put any water in yet as I thought if something was wrong with the engine I would not have the mess of draining the system, I would only run it for a minute. So after she runs for about a minute my son pulls the engine stop and nothing, now I panic she's running dry and it won't shut off. So I pull the fuel line and of course there is a lot of fuel still in the system, rag over the air intake next, nope still won't shut off so messing with the throttle and lack of fuel it shut off after 30 seconds or so. I had the governor cover off to remove the rod to get the head off/on and I did not position the shut off shaft correctly, it is now! I am happy that it seems I got the fuel rack adjusted correctly as well as the valves and injector timing. After I get the fuel leaks fixed I will fill the cooling system and let it get up to temperature. Then on to bleeding the brakes, the next thing to fight to the very end.
 

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