- 2,110
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Consider them yours, will send a pm with my updated "needs''.
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Operation "URGENT RESTORATION"
- Thread starter m38inmaine
- Start date
- 2,110
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- Location
- Maine USA
Majority of the day was spent working on an ATV tying up the bay the goat is going in. Drained the rear tractor diff., no surprises, magnet clean, just some old stinky gear lube. Pulled all the taillights from the carriers, some good and bad. Extra to my needs today a carrier taillight access panel w/screws.
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- 2,110
- 62
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- Location
- Maine USA
Working on the folding troop seat latches and lights now. Mark, this is what your latches looked like, you will see when they arrive the big difference. No amount of soaking would have fixed them. I am going to rebuild a set of the nasty rear lights into a set of front lights. Will post an after shot when I finish blasting and priming.
Attachments
- 5,637
- 381
- 83
- Location
- Spring Branch, TX
One of the current seats I have the latch body and catch mechanism look like they've rusted into 1 piece. I doubt I could get it to move with a sledge hammer. I'm looking forward to the new ones as they're about the only big parts (other then the tops) I'm missing.
- 2,110
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- Maine USA
Speaking of lights, here are the bulb numbers for the front/rear lights.
Front #623 1ea #1251 1ea #1683 1ea
Rear Blackout #1251 2ea #1683 1ea
Rear Stop/Turn/Service(full red) #1691 1ea #1683 2ea
Front #623 1ea #1251 1ea #1683 1ea
Rear Blackout #1251 2ea #1683 1ea
Rear Stop/Turn/Service(full red) #1691 1ea #1683 2ea
- 5,637
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- Spring Branch, TX
On your Blackout Drive Guard is it held on by 3 or 4 bolts? I picked one up at the MVPA Convention and there are 3 bolt holes on the guard but there are 4 bolt holes and a wire hole/grommet on my Goat. Just wondering if there is a different guard for the M151 vs the Goat.
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- Maine USA
The manual shows 4, the goat mount I believe is different because of the angle of the cowl, where as the M151 is on a flat surface. Mine is mangled but I will confirm it. Probably used the 4 bolt mount so they would not interchange.
- 5,637
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- Spring Branch, TX
Great. Okay add one more thing I need to look for. Guess I can use this for now with just 2 bolts.
- 2,110
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- Maine USA
Both have 4 holes, the portion where the light mounts has a steep angle to make up for the cowl angle.
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- 5,637
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- 83
- Location
- Spring Branch, TX
That 1st should polish out. Not sure about -#2.
- 2,110
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- Maine USA
Received a much appreciated care package from Texas today, one big piece of the missing puzzle crossed off the list, thanks Mark. Drained the diff. on the carrier today, had a cup of oily water in it, it looks ok inside though, I don't see any rust on the ring gear or pinion bearing. Also I could not shift out of 6x6, traced it back to a frozen heim joint at the diff. Got it off and now that I know it is 3/8 fine thread rh I can order one.
Attachments
- 2,110
- 62
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- Location
- Maine USA
Since my steering box is out(was missing)and the carrier is separated I thought I would overhaul the steering shafts. I could move them by hand but it took a lot of effort. I started by removing the very front short shaft, it was not too bad of a job but not any extra clearance for sure. The old bearing was very stiff and jam packed with old hard GAA grease, the inside appears to be bronze so nothing to rust to the shaft. The shaft also appears to be chromed where the bearing rides. The bearing also has a seal on both sides to keep dirt and water out. I cleaned up the shaft and slid the NOS bearing on, quite a difference and I suspect once I replace all 4 the steering effort will be greatly reduced.
The u-joints for the steering are Spicer 5-92X or NEAPCO 1475X
The u-joints for the steering are Spicer 5-92X or NEAPCO 1475X
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- Spring Branch, TX
Glad to see the parts made it okay. Where did you get the new bearings? How much extra work would it be with the steering box installed?
combat32
Well-known member
- 1,639
- 106
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- Booneville AR.
Good work Mark, that seems like a good idea on steering, I too would be interested to know where you got the nos bearings.
I must apologize as I will not be able to send the Arkansas care package till I get back from west coast, just ran out of time.
I must apologize as I will not be able to send the Arkansas care package till I get back from west coast, just ran out of time.
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NO hurry Tom, enjoy your trip. I got them from Saturn Surplus, they have them in sets of 4 on the big "E" auction site for not much money. Mark, The steering box is not the problem, it's the long shaft that runs the length of the tractor, I took mine out from the rear, I will have to look if its possible to take it out from the front. I think the carrier can be done with the shaft still attached to the rear steering box, I'll know more when I tackle it in the next couple of days. There are three bearings on the tractor and one on the carrier.
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Thanks! I ordered a set just to have on hand. I'll take a look at mine to see how much I really want to change them and then if I do they'll be here. If not they can gather dust in the shop until such time as needed.
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Not much time available today but I did manage to get the pintle off the parts carrier. No space in the back to get a socket in, it would have to be really shallow. I had to cut a small portion out to get the socket in, won't need that on the good carrier as the pintle nut spins free now.
The pintle nut is 1 7/8 socket.
The pintle nut is 1 7/8 socket.
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- Spring Branch, TX
I had a heck of a time getting the socket in on mine too. I'm still debating whether to replace the pintle or not. I haven't decided if I want a tailgate with a step or to be able to tow a trailer.
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- Maine USA
I am going to go with the pintle so I can tow a trailer, just like they did on Grenada with the c-rat/ammo re-supply mission. If I was in a strictly parade/load people mode I probably would choose the step.
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Today before work I sat the stripped replacement cowl on the tub, it all lined up well and I placed a few bolts in. Looks much better than the crunched one for sure. I chased out all the captive nuts on the dash with a tap to make re-assembly easier. Drained the front diff. and got 1 1/2 quarts of crystal clear water and the rest oil, I did not see any rust inside. I scored a very nice cab top on the big E last night for $9.95, I guess no one else was watching it. Pulled the engine cover prop rod and hold open and will blast and prime those tonight.
