Parking Brake: Cable Start Point and Adjuster Bolt Size

[SteveKuhn]

I'm trying to remedy a too-tight adjustment that dates back to swapping my transfer case. Seems all the adjustment was done at the cable and arm and the inner shoe was dragging.

I'm trying to go through the TM procedure but my cable is older and there's no clear 'start mark' where they say to begin the adjustment. Also, the transfer case was a factory reman and it seems that the adjuster bolt was run in with a gun to the shoulder and likely painted over. I haven't managed to get it out yet even with moderate heat directly on the arm it threads through. I'm concerned that the head is at least a bit buggered and if I need to pull everything apart to get it right, I'd like to replace the bolt.

1. Can anyone give me an approximation of how far from the end the lever & jam nut should start for the adjustment (highlighted arrow)? It's up close the cross member but there's room to work.

2. Can anyone provide the correct highlighted bolt size? I hope it's standard.

3. I actually considered putting a nut & washer on the outside of the fully-in, frozen bolt to use for adjustment. Not my 1st choice but I'm wondering if it has been tried.

The top of the outer shoe is not standing off far enough. It's close on top and 'way out at the bottom. Running the lever in on the cable just exacerbates the inner shoe pinching.

I'm going to need to move the lever back to the right spot on the cable and start from there.

BTW, a ratcheting flat wrench on the cable nut works OK as long as I hold the cable under the boot with a 5/32 (I think that's what it was) .

Thanks.

Steve

 

[SteveKuhn]

Bumping with additional questions:

- Am I correct that backing the adjuster bolt out is supposed to use the bolt head to hold the top of the outer shoe closer to the drum?

- Is the lever supposed to be run in on the cable before spring 3 engages? I've backed off nut 2 on the left drawing about 1/8" beyond the travel of the lever to give me some working room. However, in this position spring 3 in that drawing is fully retracted and is not putting pressure on the lever. I'd need to tighten 2 and run it in about 1/4" before 3 would even begin to work. Is this right?

BTW, still wrestling with bolt 5. I considered WillWagner's suggestion of pulling the whole brake assembly off, loosening, cleaning, & lubing but due to the cable retaining bolt above the drum being put in w/ head toward drum, I'd need to drop the driveshaft to do that. I'm not going to try to get the cable out of the lever with that retainer tight.

Would still appreciate any answers to the 1st questions above.

Thanks.

Steve

 

[gimpyrobb]

First off, there is 2 types of parking brakes. Does your handle have an adjustment in the cab?

 

[SteveKuhn]

Sorry. Should have said that. Yes, and the adjustment is backed off just like the TM specifies.

Thanks for picking up on this.

Steve

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'll try to get some measurements for ya in a bit. Do you have a tap and die set? I'd chase the threads and then hit the nut with some heat to free it up. I have had good luck getting things freed up like that.

Usually when adjusting parking brakes, I haven't had to adjust more than the cable that pulls on the top of the lever. I'd wait to adjust that #5 bolt.

 

[gringeltaube]

Bolt#5 specs: 7/16"-20 x L 1-7/8"


G.

 

[SteveKuhn]

What I'm finding is that by the time I get the jam nut to put a bit of pressure on the lever, the inner shoe wants to contact the drum. I've loosened the moustache spring, tightened it, etc.

When it was run down far enough on the cable to hold the truck, the inner shoe was actually putting pressure on the drum when the lever was released.

At this point I don't need to move bolt 5 but I want it freed nonetheless.

Steve

 

[gringeltaube]

If the inner shoe contacts the drum first... then the outer shoe is adjusted too far away... that simple!

You will need to loosen nut #13 and unscrew bolt #5 until the outer shoe barely starts dragging, while the brake is fully released. Then adjust (via bending) the length of the moustache spring so that the inner shoe won't drag while released.

It takes about 5/8" of cable travel, from fully released-no-drag to fully applied, if everything is adjusted right.
Maybe the attached picture helps a bit...


G.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Both the explanation and the photo are a big help filling in the gaps from the TM. I'm going to work through that approach.

Thanks to both of you.

Steve