• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Parking brake in freezing weather mishap barley avoided

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Just a few days ago when it was 20 degees here in tn i was doing my weakly crank the the 1083 up let it get up to operating temp put the transmission in forward and reverse to keep every thing lubed and operating but this day when she cranks up once the air starts to build the parking brake knobs are hissing pretty bad and this had happend a year ago but this time i push both valves in to release brakes and the hissing stops i figure everything all good so i pull the brake knobs back out to set the brake thought all is well till i put the truck in reverse and it takes off up the driveway like the brakes didnt set ! i usally stand on the ground when im putting the transmission thru its paces from forward to nuetral to reverse so fyi really check your parking break has actually set before you get out of the truck maybe someone on here knows what was going on with my brakes when freezing ????
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Just a few days ago when it was 20 degees here in tn i was doing my weakly crank the the 1083 up let it get up to operating temp put the transmission in forward and reverse to keep every thing lubed and operating but this day when she cranks up once the air starts to build the parking brake knobs are hissing pretty bad and this had happend a year ago but this time i push both valves in to release brakes and the hissing stops i figure everything all good so i pull the brake knobs back out to set the brake thought all is well till i put the truck in reverse and it takes off up the driveway like the brakes didnt set ! i usally stand on the ground when im putting the transmission thru its paces from forward to nuetral to reverse so fyi really check your parking break has actually set before you get out of the truck maybe someone on here knows what was going on with my brakes when freezing ????
Did you hear the exhaust dump when you reset the brakes?

Common occurrence air brakes of all types if moisture on the relay valve exhaust vent. This gets frozen from water or snow chunks getting stuck to it and the air can't be exhausted away from the spring cans.

Probably not your case. Just a stuck plunger in the parking valve. Add marvel mystery oil to the system to let it circulate and lube up some o rings and flaps
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Im not sure i herd it exaust or not since you mention it ! the only time its ever had the air at the dash bleeding is last winter I drain my 3 air tanks usally every time i shut it off at the petcocks on the tanks and dont seem to get any moisture Where would you put the impact oil into the system to aleave the sticking problem?
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,845
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Did you get the normal “woosh” when you pulled the park knob? if so the park valve is working.

Did the park and emer lights in the dash come on? if so air pressure was removed from the inversion valve as it should. That light is driven by a pressure switch at the inlet to the inversion valve. Park air from the park valve feeds the inversion valve. The inversion feeds that park air to the anti compounding valve, which feeds tank air to the park springs. If the lights didn’t come on, the front emer glad hand could be clogged and trapping air. Trapped air in the front emer line could still supply air to the inversion input just like the park valve does via the 2way check. Is the front emergency gladhand clear of ice/snow and vented properly?

if the park and emer lights came on in the dash, the anti-compounding valve may be frozen and supplying air to the park springs even though park air is removed...
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Did you hear the exhaust dump when you reset the brakes?

Common occurrence air brakes of all types if moisture on the relay valve exhaust vent. This gets frozen from water or snow chunks getting stuck to it and the air can't be exhausted away from the spring cans.

Probably not your case. Just a stuck plunger in the parking valve. Add marvel mystery oil to the system to let it circulate and lube up some o rings and flaps
Where would you put the marvel into the system at to get it every where it needs to be? Thanks
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Did you get the normal “woosh” when you pulled the park knob? if so the park valve is working.

Did the park and emer lights in the dash come on? if so air pressure was removed from the inversion valve as it should. That light is driven by a pressure switch at the inlet to the inversion valve. Park air from the park valve feeds the inversion valve. The inversion feeds that park air to the anti compounding valve, which feeds tank air to the park springs. If the lights didn’t come on, the front emer glad hand could be clogged and trapping air. Trapped air in the front emer line could still supply air to the inversion input just like the park valve does via the 2way check. Is the front emergency gladhand clear of ice/snow and vented properly?

if the park and emer lights came on in the dash, the anti-compounding valve may be frozen and supplying air to the park springs even though park air is removed...
Of coarse everything is thawed out now so i wont know about the glad hand being froze up and i dont remember if the dash light for the brake came on or not but next hard freeze im going to check those things out Thanks
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,845
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
And unless it evaporated, it would be a mystery how it would make it from the tanks, anywhere else in the system:)

personally I wouldn’t put anything in it but dry air. If your dryer cannot deliver that then fix the dryer.

If it was wet, you would see signs in the tank drains as that is the most likley place for it to condense. the wet tank is plumbed incorrectly on these trucks and only about 1/3 or less of the air out of the dryer actually passes into and thru the wet tank, when 100% of it should pass thru the wet tank.

If you needed it thawed and operational, perhaps alcohol, as it will ultimately evaporate completely and leave no residue to collect dirt... but if it is frozen, there is no flow to get the alcohol to the freeze easily, without first thawing the system. This can be done from the outside with warm water...

keeping oil(from the compressor) out of the system is the second function of the air dryer...
 
Last edited:

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
And unless it evaporated, it would be a mystery how it would make it from the tanks, anywhere else in the system:)

personally I wouldn’t put anything in it but dry air. If your dryer cannot deliver that then fix the dryer.

If it was wet, you would see signs in the tank drains as that is the most likley place for it to condense. the wet tank is plumbed incorrectly on these trucks and only about 1/3 or less of the air out of the dryer actually passes into and thru the wet tank, when 100% of it should pass thru the wet tank.

If you needed it thawed and operational, perhaps alcohol, as it will ultimately evaporate completely and leave no residue to collect dirt... but if it is frozen, there is no flow to get the alcohol to the freeze easily, without first thawing the system. This can be done from the outside with warm water...

keeping oil(from the compressor) out of the system is the second function of the air dryer...
What ever caused the problem it was in the valve on the dash maybe i should look into it or replace it . Thanks for the info
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
So much Nope.

Nope, nope, nope....

ymmv
Yea on further refletion i agree on really bad idea to do that and about 1 millionth of a second after i hit reverse and it started rolling all of 5 feet from my pick up truck 2 things happend at once first a need to change my drawers and second to mash that neutral button like theres no tomorrow .
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Yea on further refletion i agree on really bad idea to do that and about 1 millionth of a second after i hit reverse and it started rolling all of 5 feet from my pick up truck 2 things happend at once first a need to change my drawers and second to mash that neutral button like theres no tomorrow .
Chucky,

So, I had to add a "Haha" in reply to your message. Normally wouldn't have done that... Guess after figuring out that you didn't die and that your Pick Up Truck didn't get flattened - it appeared to be an okay day.

Have to laugh to keep from crying almost...

I keep thinking we need to develop and market the "Old Guy Step" for these trucks.
Maybe something we can hang on the driver's side tire to hustle up with a little less effort.

That might be good until somebody forgot the step was hanging on the tire.
Then the "Old Guy Step" gets flattened or the truck gets damaged :-(

Just darn glad it worked out better than it could have for you and your trucks!


:cool:

Tim
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Do you have a rebuilt or new air dryer? Sounds more like the air dryer is not doing it's job. I got a NOS from Will here on the board and it was cheaper than a rebuild kit for the old one.
 
Last edited:

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,845
7,474
113
Location
Port angeles wa
They are also real easy to overhaul. Being a coalescing dryer, the media really only needs to be clean So it can coalesce the water into droplets as it passes thru the beads. With this design, you can easily remove it and wash it with a degreaser in a bucket. Then clean out the inside of the housing... i did a video on how to do this, it is real easy to do...

If the dryer is not doing it’s job, you will find moisture in the tanks...
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
Do you have a rebuilt or new air dryer? Sounds more like the air dryer is not doing it's job. I got a NOS from Will here on the board and it was cheaper than a rebuild kit for the old one.
No havent changed anything in dryer world i always check my 3 air tank valves and never get any moisture out of them .Ive watched a couple of youtube videos where they take you step by step through the dismantling the dryer i will probly get around to that project this summer im still triming out the interior . Thanks for info
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
They are also real easy to overhaul. Being a coalescing dryer, the media really only needs to be clean So it can coalesce the water into droplets as it passes thru the beads. With this design, you can easily remove it and wash it with a degreaser in a bucket. Then clean out the inside of the housing... i did a video on how to do this, it is real easy to do...

If the dryer is not doing it’s job, you will find moisture in the tanks...
It was probly your video on youtube i watched a little while back Thanks
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks