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Patracy's "SEMTT"

M920

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The truck looks really cool Drew, you did a great job and I really like the green color to! I'm also glad you got the cooling problem isolated. I would certainly fix or replace the actuator....mine only comes on occasionally and I feel it would give you better fuel mileage if it does not stay on all the time. Not to mention the noise!

Keep the pics and videos coming.

Soni
 

patracy

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Yup, fixing the actuator is next on the list. But at least it's isolated the issue. I'm kinda thinking of a slightly different route though. I've got a spare electric air solenoid laying around. I planned on installing that adjustable thermal switch for the electric fans/coolers I'm going to add. I might just use it to also control the solenoid. On the upside, I could also have a manual override as well with nothing more than a electrical switch in the cab. Also thinking forward, when I install the AC setup, I can have it also lock up the fan when on.
 

73m819

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You could also mount a eclectic fan on the front of the radiator
auto SPELL CHECK did not find anything wrong, I spell bad enough as it is, do you THINK I am going to argue with SPEEL CHECK which is Goggles answer for bad spellers, If I do, S/C WILL go down the road, never to be seen again which WILL make you THINK that I am typing in code from that point on, on top of that. NSA will be MORE confused then normal.
 
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jdknech

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the actuater is really easy to "rebuild", normally all it needs is pulled apart, LIGHTLY sanded to remove burr's, and oiled.. it can be done on the truck, but is easier if removed.. just need a spanner wrench, and compressed air to get it apart..
 

patracy

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the actuater is really easy to "rebuild", normally all it needs is pulled apart, LIGHTLY sanded to remove burr's, and oiled.. it can be done on the truck, but is easier if removed.. just need a spanner wrench, and compressed air to get it apart..
Yeah I glanced at it mentioned in another thread. I just wanted to verify the clutch/issue for now.
 

patracy

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You need to come up with an equally cool trailer to pull behind it.
I bought Adam's M750 a while back. I'm only going to work on getting it "functional" as an RV for now. (Bathroom, cooking setup, AC/Heat) But I do plan on making the rest of it nice as time goes on. (Flatscreen, computer station, stereo, exc.) Won't be as glamorous as RAYZARS Taj on wheels. I'm just going to go for more minimalist/functional/commercialized look. I would like to get it setup where I can go camping in it though for extended periods. I'm going to talk to the VFW just down the road to see what it'd cost to set it up at their RV station for the summer. I'll be living over there I think on top of the hill overlooking the lake!
 

EMD567

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Looks like a nice drive Drew. I can't wait to see the SEMTT in person at Zout's cookout.
 

patracy

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Went down to PB's Saturday and picked up a M105 trailer to make a "bed" module out of it. MWMULES made a neat setup out of one for his M818.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/album.php?albumid=1374

I kinda have a different idea instead of removing the fenderwells. I'm going to make mine into toolboxes/storage. Also I'm thinking a little different on securing it all down. I'm thinking about adding some chain section on the tail end that you'd connect in when loading it. Since stopping is the key point you'd want heavy chain to prevent the bed from flopping forward. The front I'm thinking will be some sort of binder straps like semis use on flat beds to pull the front nose of the bed down until the chain stops it from the rear. The upside to this approach would be a slight tilt bed to help unload if needed. Also looking at how the M105 bed mounts to it's frame, it'll already have "hangers" on the sides for another idea I have. The gap between the bed and the frame just doesn't "do it" for me. Luckily I still have plenty of that conveyer belt stuff left over. I'm going to make a pair of "mud flaps" out of it to hang over the sides and "hide" the gap/5th wheel while it's on it. Then when I get ready to take the bed module off, the toolbox fenderwells could store all the associated gear for it.

Back to the truck though. I installed the solenoid onto the fan clutch. It engaged no problem. But..... it doesn't disengage since pressure is trapped there. So I'm thinking I'll add a fitting and drill a very small orifice (it'd be a small gauge drill bit hole, I'll get my father-in-law to drill it at work) be a to allow pressure to escape back out when the solenoid closes. Yes, it'll be a tiny air leak. But I'm absolutely certain it will not be heard when that big fan is spinning at mach 3! I also ran a lead up to the cab so I can wire in a override power for it. Won't be using it now, but in the future I guess I will with AC.

I will admit, I've been doing something unsafe with the truck. The protection control box wiring has been on the fritz. So it's been unplugged. This has worried me to no end driving it. Having to constantly drive by that air pressure gauge. (No problems, but you never know!) So I ended up re-purposing the MK48's buzzer/beeper. Works beautifully, and it's not a constant annoying BUZZZZZZ. It's a Buzz - Buzz - Buzz style sound. Honestly, I'd be more keen to pick up a interrupted sound.

Also the gaskets I needed for the turbo install came in saturday as well. I'm kinda kicking around some ideas with that right now. I'll certainly have to redo the air intake from the filter to the turbo. But I'm also kinda thinking of something to do with these condensers I have. I was thinking about using the oil out port at the oil cooler. (this is where the turbo would be fed oil anyhow) And passing that to a line to feed into the condenser, then feed that into the turbo as an additional oil cooler. But I'm not sure if this is overkill. Perhaps I should just install the turbo like factory and give it a spin. I can always add the other cooling if needed.
 

73m819

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You could install a quick release valve in the air supply line, when the line is pressurized, the valve opens and operates the fan, when the pressure is dumped from the supply line, the valve closes, sealing off the supply line and allows the EXHAUST of the trapped pressure.
 

patracy

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So last weekend I went down to papabears and picked up a m105 trailer. Pulled the bed off today and mocked it up. Not sure if I like it yet. If I do this, it will get mud flaps under it to hide the fifth wheel gap. It's very very high though. But I could make it hinge/dump with my idea. Fenderwells would become storage boxes as well. I really want a 5th wheel wrecker for it though.
 

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patracy

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No problem, I'd love to have more feedback on it. I think it'd look a little better if the wheel wells were filled in and "skirts" were around the base to blend it in a little more. I have everything I need to make this "module" save for some chain and some ratchet straps. Well that and a couple of hinges and latches for the "toolboxes". I think mainly some sweat equity might make it a little better. But I think a 5th wheel wrecker would look better swinging on the tail when bobtailed.
 

camoyj7

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What about adding another wheel opening on each side. When I stretched my old deuce I thought about using a m105 bed as well. I photo shopped this pic to see how it would look.
 

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MWMULES

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That's the same problem I had with the 5 wheel 105 bed on my 818. I did cut out and filled in the wheel wells which made it better looking and more usable. It pretty much self dumps with the 5th wheel pivot point.


002.jpg IMG_1436 dump.jpg m818bed 002.jpg
 
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