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Please recommend a transfer switch

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Chainbreaker

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Also, unless she has some way to know when Utility Power comes back on (Utility Co. Street light, nearby Stop Light, etc.) you might consider also adding in a device that informs her when the utility power is back on so she knows when to shut down Genset.

One such device is the Power Back Alarm (there are others as well) that you can switch on when on Generator Power that emits a loud rather irritating warbling alarm tone when Utility Power comes back on inside breaker box. It has and inductive probe lead that wraps around incoming utility feed line that triggers the alarm when power is restored. Though if the panel is in a garage with entry doors closed it can be hard to hear. The one solution for that is to then install a remote "baby monitor" type device to transmit the alarm sound to interior location in house where it can be heard.
 
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cincinnatiman

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98G said:
She probably has 200 amp service. But the MEP802 obviously can't run all of that.

Her furnace and water heater are gas. She's concerned about running the lights, the refrigerator, the furnace, and whatever other trivialities can be supported by the 802. We're going to go through her breaker box next time we're there and label the ones to be turned on when she's on genset power.

I'm going to put a 24v trickle charger on the 802, and i should be able to PM it a couple times a year.
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well u wrong becuase main breaker is lable 200 amps dose not meen home runs 200 amps perfick expample i have mep003 hardwire to home main breaker is 150 amps, over all usage is well under 60 amps becuase i have 60 amp breaker for genartor , runs home fine, but some things u must note these old genarators even most new ones there no filters on them to clean power and they require a ground rod wich make ground loop in home , so get around this, i use a 150 amp 3 phase filter why 3 phase i also wanted filter ground wire, wich 0 volts should be on, filter helps from power spikes , clean power so computers can run on them also i use size one alum to filter to subpanle wich has its own surge protecktion then run to home , as genarotor can run 125 amps. running it below 60 amps is not even a probem , we did have replace glow plugs all them even when had 500 hrs, i am not shure why all was warn so bad, it is possable at some point time they could been replace with used ones, also know building codes and u might get permit for it , as long to code no matter what it is even if no code for it all they want see if was wire to speck
 
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cincinnatiman

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msgjd said:
A transfer switch has to be sized no less than the rated amperage of the utility service .. It doesn't matter if the draw on the genny and genny size is less.. In most cases you will have to get the utility involved to pull the meter unless you are a service tech with your own meter seals issued by a utility, as I had been until retirement.. In some places there is no jurisdiction for residential services other than to let them know you need to pull the meter and they come out to reseal it.. Many jurisdictions require inspection of the install before the meter is put back in the can or otherwise service re-engergized. If you are lucky there might be a disconnect situated at the load side of the meter or integral with it, thus you could do the work undetected, but I didn't say that. ;)

An alternative to messing with the service itself is a "Gentran" box. They are less-expensive than a 200A nema3 (outdoor) xfer switch , indoor-rated, and easy to install/use. However, a customer is restricted to the low number of circuits powered by the genny through these boxes and loses the ability to have power in every room. Last I recall, they did not make them larger than 12-circuit and 50-amp, and of course, most water pumps take up two of those right off the bat..

If someone needs flexibilty for the entire house (not everything running at same time of course) , they are better off with a xfer switch in the main service .. My favorites were 1980's-90's vintage Cutler-Hammer as well as Bryant-brand transfers, rugged and having a high-current fault service rating that exceeded all inspection and utility requirements. I had 5 different utilities to deal with in three states, their requirements weren't 100% the same
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that not true in ohio they want permits for all elec work even plugs, wich i think is mess up , i ran gen to main panle with a interlock installed it set to run 60 amps gen able run 125 amps, at 2000 ibs also taken in effeck power not clean so i did things few ever do and would make a inspecktor head spin but was all done to code, all wire going to gen subpanle is rated for 150 amps, even throw only 60 amps used and used copper wire if i not mistaken it was size 6 for 60 amps as it running under 60 amps that fine, it also runs throw breaker on subpanle just in case, , also i use subpanle add other devies would be on genartor alone as gen hardware to panle only home on breaker not gen on home main panle is 60 amp breaker , this alows me do something else i could run 3 phase and two phase , but i need swich main panle out to 3 phase panle , now swiching to 220 single phase only one line gose down , home run on the two stil running and 3 phase breakers stay off , there lot of advanges runnning it eather way, i do not have discontect on gen not needed, as it on breaker, as far panle u add subpanle to it if it rated 200 amps this should be easy to do , and by way all this was done befor all codes change now u cant even add wall socket with out permit ?? but i did get around them once, long story will not go in to it , but nothing they do as it to code, and i did it with with out inspecktion they not happy about it but they had admit i was in right not them
 
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Summerpaws

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I had the same issue with my 802. I wanted something my wife could use . I ended up installing an interlock. The 802 will not run the dryer or the water heater. She starts the genny then goes down and switches over the breaker from utility to gen, switches off the dryer and the water heater then goes back to the gen, makes sure the temp and oil pressure are good and loads it. She's 70 as well. It was far cheaper than a transfer switch or a gen tran panel. She has never had to do it due to a power failure yet but one a month I have her do everything when I do my monthly generator test.
 
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cincinnatiman

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cincinnati ohio
cincinnatiman said:
that not true in ohio they want permits for all elec work even plugs, wich i think is mess up , i ran gen to main panle with a interlock installed it set to run 60 amps gen able run 125 amps, at 2000 ibs also taken in effeck power not clean so i did things few ever do and would make a inspecktor head spin but was all done to code, all wire going to gen subpanle is rated for 150 amps, even throw only 60 amps used and used copper wire if i not mistaken it was size 6 for 60 amps as it running under 60 amps that fine, it also runs throw breaker on subpanle just in case, , also i use subpanle add other devies would be on genartor alone as gen hardware to panle only home on breaker not gen on home main panle is 60 amp breaker , this alows me do something else i could run 3 phase and two phase , but i need swich main panle out to 3 phase panle , now swiching to 220 single phase only one line gose down , home run on the two stil running and 3 phase breakers stay off , there lot of advanges runnning it eather way, i do not have discontect on gen not needed, as it on breaker, as far panle u add subpanle to it if it rated 200 amps this should be easy to do , and by way all this was done befor all codes change now u cant even add wall socket with out permit ?? but i did get around them once, long story will not go in to it , but nothing they do as it to code, and i did it with with out inspecktion they not happy about it but they had admit i was in right not them
[/QUOTE e
AGREEE ON ONE PART A transfer switch has to be sized no less than the ra]ted amperage of the utility servic
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