gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I'm all teeth when driving these trucks brother
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Project Off-Grid M109A3 w/w log
- Thread starter wsucougarx
- Start date
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wsucougarx
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OK finally was able to make some progress on my truck. One of the projects I put at the top of the priority list was the aux. 50 gallon fuel tank. As mentioned before, I am only using this tank as a feeder tank to the primary tank. I did this for a couple reasons. The aux. tank is only to be used for emergency type situations (disaster relief or bugging out). Also, I didn't want to bother with the extensive plumbing associated with the tank A and tank B switching method (ie: M818 type system). Again I wanted to keep the KISS method.
I just picked this tank up on Monday. It's used but it looks like it was refurbished for re-use as it was repainted and the NSN number was stencilled on the front. I decided to flush the tank out really good before mounting her (uh, putting the tank onto the truck).
I pulled the pioneer tool rack and spare tire off the truck. Drilled a few holes into the frame. If anyone is thinking about adding an aux tank. Before drilling into the frame put a piece of 1/4 inch steel on the opposite side. This will help prevent you from drilling through your wiring harness. air lines, and brake lines. Luckily I thought about this before drilling. The install took the better part of the entire day. I had to reroute my parking brake cable to accomodate the tank. I also need to extend my air tank drain cables out beyond the the original location. I figured some 550 cord was upto the job. I decided to add a primary fuel filter housing between the aux and primary tank. Condensation is a potential issues with the aux tank so I wanted to trap the moisture before heading to the primary tank.
I thought of mounting my pioneer tool rack to the front of the tank but we'll see. Need to make a bracket to hold it up.
The aux tank will be controlled by a separate master switch. To help minimize any overfill accidents, the aux fuel system will only have power when the main master switch is on and will have a lock out of some sort. There will also be an aux fuel level gauge and a status light showing pump is on.
Projects Completed:
Mounted aux fuel tank
Rerouted Parking Brake Cable
Installed Aux Fuel Tank Primary Fuel Filter Housing
Extended Air Tank Drain Kit Cables
I just picked this tank up on Monday. It's used but it looks like it was refurbished for re-use as it was repainted and the NSN number was stencilled on the front. I decided to flush the tank out really good before mounting her (uh, putting the tank onto the truck).
I pulled the pioneer tool rack and spare tire off the truck. Drilled a few holes into the frame. If anyone is thinking about adding an aux tank. Before drilling into the frame put a piece of 1/4 inch steel on the opposite side. This will help prevent you from drilling through your wiring harness. air lines, and brake lines. Luckily I thought about this before drilling. The install took the better part of the entire day. I had to reroute my parking brake cable to accomodate the tank. I also need to extend my air tank drain cables out beyond the the original location. I figured some 550 cord was upto the job. I decided to add a primary fuel filter housing between the aux and primary tank. Condensation is a potential issues with the aux tank so I wanted to trap the moisture before heading to the primary tank.
I thought of mounting my pioneer tool rack to the front of the tank but we'll see. Need to make a bracket to hold it up.
The aux tank will be controlled by a separate master switch. To help minimize any overfill accidents, the aux fuel system will only have power when the main master switch is on and will have a lock out of some sort. There will also be an aux fuel level gauge and a status light showing pump is on.
Projects Completed:
Mounted aux fuel tank
Rerouted Parking Brake Cable
Installed Aux Fuel Tank Primary Fuel Filter Housing
Extended Air Tank Drain Kit Cables
Attachments
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wsucougarx
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Pics of the primary fuel filter housing. I went back and forth as to where to put this housing. I was going to mount it to the side of the cab, the front of the van box...etc etc. I finally decided on mouting it out of sight. I do have some concerns as to where I chose to put it. I thought it would be an easy target for a rock or stump. I tried to mount it as high as I could. I found one of the frame's crossmembers was the best place. I took a couple pics to show it is at least higher than the fuel tank support brackets. Tomorrow I need to secure some fuel lines to get her hooked up. I attempted to bend some copper fuel line I had laying around. Without the correct tools in hand I ended up kinking it pretty good.
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jesusgatos
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Whoa, that filter looks really vulnerable. There's got to be a better place to mount it.
wsucougarx
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Yah, that's still on the drawing board. When I get the 12.00's on her it'll increase the clearance some. The close up pics really make it look likes it's draggin on the ground
goldneagle
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Why don't you go with a spin on water separation filter?
Hammer
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Might be a bit late, but have you thought about spinning the tank around so the fill hole is in front?
Where it's at, you will have a harder time filling it, especially via fuel can.
Btw, you can use one fuel gauge, and just run a lever switch like the m818 has to view the fuel level in each tank. KISS...
Speaking of which, for the KISS method, I took the fuel selector OUT of my m818, and run of the driver side tank only. I am going to plumb in a pump to transfer from the aux tank to the main, but I don't have a spare deuce pump (probably use a 12v pump I have laying around.)
I think your plan is a good one. Selector valves, plumbing, leaks, etc, too much to go wrong.
Oh, I personally would only use a simple aftermarket spin on fuel water separator instead of that huge thing. You will not be pumping THAT much fuel, and it will only pump it once, not continually like the stock does. So even a SMALL filter will last a LONG time in that scenario.
Where it's at, you will have a harder time filling it, especially via fuel can.
Btw, you can use one fuel gauge, and just run a lever switch like the m818 has to view the fuel level in each tank. KISS...
Speaking of which, for the KISS method, I took the fuel selector OUT of my m818, and run of the driver side tank only. I am going to plumb in a pump to transfer from the aux tank to the main, but I don't have a spare deuce pump (probably use a 12v pump I have laying around.)
I think your plan is a good one. Selector valves, plumbing, leaks, etc, too much to go wrong.
Oh, I personally would only use a simple aftermarket spin on fuel water separator instead of that huge thing. You will not be pumping THAT much fuel, and it will only pump it once, not continually like the stock does. So even a SMALL filter will last a LONG time in that scenario.
srodocker
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hammer what you doing with your tank switch stuff for the dual tanks ? 
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
im in the market for one
im in the market for one
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Two separate fuel tanks with their own in-tank pumps is a nice back-up in case of a pump failure, for example. Also good when switching from diesel to veggie/bio fuels after warm-up "on the fly".
After years of experiments, this is what I now have on my 8x8:
1) Motorized 3-way valves, one for supply and one for the returns.
2) Magnetic fuel filter (home made). Common for both tanks.
3) Racor top loaded cartridge type 30 micron fuel filter. Common to both tanks.
4) Selector switches. One to select tank (turns on pump in selected tank) and one to select return flow.
5) Warning light comes on when return flow does not go back to "supply" tank.
All of the above features were chosen after one type of failure or another, clogged solenoid valves, tank overflow when return flow went into wrong tank, IP failure due to rust particles and more.
The deuce is now due for some of these up grades.
After years of experiments, this is what I now have on my 8x8:
1) Motorized 3-way valves, one for supply and one for the returns.
2) Magnetic fuel filter (home made). Common for both tanks.
3) Racor top loaded cartridge type 30 micron fuel filter. Common to both tanks.
4) Selector switches. One to select tank (turns on pump in selected tank) and one to select return flow.
5) Warning light comes on when return flow does not go back to "supply" tank.
All of the above features were chosen after one type of failure or another, clogged solenoid valves, tank overflow when return flow went into wrong tank, IP failure due to rust particles and more.
The deuce is now due for some of these up grades.
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wsucougarx
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Might be a bit late, but have you thought about spinning the tank around so the fill hole is in front?
Where it's at, you will have a harder time filling it, especially via fuel can.
Hey Ed, I did think about that. However, the fill hole will be under the cab. Being it's my auxillary/emergency fuel supply I don't expect to be filling it up w/jerry cans too much. I probably should figure out a funnel system should I have to someday...good thinking
Btw, you can use one fuel gauge, and just run a lever switch like the m818 has to view the fuel level in each tank. KISS...
I thought about using one fuel gauge but I would need to buy another master switch ($40-50) as that's what the 818 uses. I had another fuel gauge in my parts bin so I might as well put it to use
Speaking of which, for the KISS method, I took the fuel selector OUT of my m818, and run of the driver side tank only. I am going to plumb in a pump to transfer from the aux tank to the main, but I don't have a spare deuce pump (probably use a 12v pump I have laying around.)
I think your plan is a good one. Selector valves, plumbing, leaks, etc, too much to go wrong.
Amen to that brother!!
Oh, I personally would only use a simple aftermarket spin on fuel water separator instead of that huge thing. You will not be pumping THAT much fuel, and it will only pump it once, not continually like the stock does. So even a SMALL filter will last a LONG time in that scenario.
I thought about using an aftermarket spin on system as well. However, I have about 6 primary fuel filter housings and a bunch of primary fuel filters sitting in my garage. Plus I'm hitting this project from a purist angle. I know this '50's technology is not cutting edge but there's something to be said in staying original (or close to it anyways). Plus it'll keep everything uniform as I have a ton of spare parts.
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jdr2710
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I found a handy way to avoid kinking copper lines when bending, just fill with fine sand (clean very carefully afterwards of course). I did this when I re-arranged my RV's propane lines and was able to do some really tight bends. I just taped up one end then used a small funnel to get the sand in, tapped a lot to get it completely full, then tape the other end. You can get pretty violent without worrying about a kink.
armytruck63
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That's a great tip!
jamesfrom180
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Smaller lines with only one bend I've found using weed-eater line will keep the kinks out. Sand sounds pretty good too. I will have to try it.
wsucougarx
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Outstanding idea. I may got back and put sand in the kinked one and give it a try. I put air pressure in it and it doesn't leak. I know I won't get the best fuel flow but no problem.
wsucougarx
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Did some minimal work to the truck today. It was way too nice to work. I decided to take the top off the '68 and drive her around town. At the last minute I added a middle seatbelt for my daughter. Took the two kids out for fun in sun, deuce style Oh yah, I was talking about the 109. I mounted my angle brackets to accept the pioneer tool rack. Originally I oriented the pioneer tool rack with the shovel pointing towards the bow of the truck. Then realized it really should point rearward more or less so the ax is seated via gravity. The angle brackets were the same one's I used for my aux. front lights (Aurora). If you're wondering I do plan on re-CARCing the entire truck when all the exterior projects are completed. Until then, all new add ones will have the Krylon camo green.
WOW just noticed there have been 17,521 views of this thread! I'm not even close to being half way there.
Projects completed:
Mounted Pioneer Tool Rack to Aux Fuel Tank.
Oh yah, I was talking about the 109. I mounted my angle brackets to accept the pioneer tool rack. Originally I oriented the pioneer tool rack with the shovel pointing towards the bow of the truck. Then realized it really should point rearward more or less so the ax is seated via gravity. The angle brackets were the same one's I used for my aux. front lights (Aurora). If you're wondering I do plan on re-CARCing the entire truck when all the exterior projects are completed. Until then, all new add ones will have the Krylon camo green. WOW just noticed there have been 17,521 views of this thread! I'm not even close to being half way there.
Projects completed:
Mounted Pioneer Tool Rack to Aux Fuel Tank.
Attachments
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Very Nice Job.
srodocker
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thats a really neat idea! hrm i may have to copy i was trying to figure out where im mounting mine...
wsucougarx
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Window Tinting Cab
Today I did something that went completely against my rules for this build. I deviated from mil-spec and tinted the cab windows. I had some tint left over from doing a job on my 2004.5 VW GLi. This is something I've been pondering for sometime. Today was the day to get this project checked off the list.
If you are unfamiliar with tinting try and find some resources online as far as how to do it. Do not I repeat do not buy that garbage tint at Walmart or at your discount auto parts dealer. Buy some good stuff. I bought my stuff online. Tools are very important as well. I took a pic of everything I used. The tint I used wasn't too dark.
The prep work is the absolute most important part of the job. Went over everything really good with a razor. Then cleaned the surface with CRC Brake Cleaner. Cleaned a couple times with soapy water in the spray bottle. Cleaned again with windex and wiped it with a lint-free cloth. Next I sprayed the surface again with soapy water and used the BLUE MAX squeegy to clean the surface then repeated. Spayed the window down really good, applied the tint, squeegy the middle to lock it in place and just work the water out. Each window took about 30 min each.
I also picked up two complete NOS Radar Scattering Camouflage Screenings (came w/instructions and repair kits). One is woodland and the other is desert. Never know what you may need
The third pic shows what I used. The 4th/5th pics show how subtle the tint was. The last pic show bubbles at the top of the window. Nothing I could do there as the bubbles are between the glass.
Projects Completed:
Driver/Passenger Door Window Tint
Today I did something that went completely against my rules for this build. I deviated from mil-spec and tinted the cab windows. I had some tint left over from doing a job on my 2004.5 VW GLi. This is something I've been pondering for sometime. Today was the day to get this project checked off the list.
If you are unfamiliar with tinting try and find some resources online as far as how to do it. Do not I repeat do not buy that garbage tint at Walmart or at your discount auto parts dealer. Buy some good stuff. I bought my stuff online. Tools are very important as well. I took a pic of everything I used. The tint I used wasn't too dark.
The prep work is the absolute most important part of the job. Went over everything really good with a razor. Then cleaned the surface with CRC Brake Cleaner. Cleaned a couple times with soapy water in the spray bottle. Cleaned again with windex and wiped it with a lint-free cloth. Next I sprayed the surface again with soapy water and used the BLUE MAX squeegy to clean the surface then repeated. Spayed the window down really good, applied the tint, squeegy the middle to lock it in place and just work the water out. Each window took about 30 min each.
I also picked up two complete NOS Radar Scattering Camouflage Screenings (came w/instructions and repair kits). One is woodland and the other is desert. Never know what you may need
The third pic shows what I used. The 4th/5th pics show how subtle the tint was. The last pic show bubbles at the top of the window. Nothing I could do there as the bubbles are between the glass.
Projects Completed:
Driver/Passenger Door Window Tint
Attachments
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wsucougarx
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M105 Spare Tire
Did some work to the 105 project a couple days ago. I mounted my spare tire. The job isn't done yet. I still need to drill holes for the bottom two bolt holes in the mount. The tire sits a bit lower than desired but I could always drop the tire if need be.
The spare tire mount fits absolutely perfect between the trailer bed mounts. All I had to do was just tap it into place. It was made for that area! I just had to drill a few holes and bolt her on. I do plan on putting a cable through the tire to secure it to the trailer. I don't the tire mount will every let loose but for now it's just extra insurance. To offset the weight I'm mounting a M813 Tool Box on the opposite side. That one's still in the planning phase
Also I mounted some cinching straps on footman loops on the rear of the 105 to secure it's camo screen. The tarp that came with this trailer is approx 12 inches too long. The camo screen ought to take up the extra slack when I tie it down the tarp.
I also decided to add a pioneer tool rack I've been kicking around the garage. Finally got that knee splitter off the deck. Oh I'm going to loose the bridge plate...I was bored
Projects Completed:
Camo Screening Cinching Straps On rear of M105A2
Pioneer Tool Rack Mounted
Did some work to the 105 project a couple days ago. I mounted my spare tire. The job isn't done yet. I still need to drill holes for the bottom two bolt holes in the mount. The tire sits a bit lower than desired but I could always drop the tire if need be.
The spare tire mount fits absolutely perfect between the trailer bed mounts. All I had to do was just tap it into place. It was made for that area! I just had to drill a few holes and bolt her on. I do plan on putting a cable through the tire to secure it to the trailer. I don't the tire mount will every let loose but for now it's just extra insurance
. To offset the weight I'm mounting a M813 Tool Box on the opposite side. That one's still in the planning phaseAlso I mounted some cinching straps on footman loops on the rear of the 105 to secure it's camo screen. The tarp that came with this trailer is approx 12 inches too long. The camo screen ought to take up the extra slack when I tie it down the tarp.
I also decided to add a pioneer tool rack I've been kicking around the garage. Finally got that knee splitter off the deck
. Oh I'm going to loose the bridge plate...I was boredProjects Completed:
Camo Screening Cinching Straps On rear of M105A2
Pioneer Tool Rack Mounted
Attachments
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wsucougarx
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Rythmic bounce at 30 MPH. Why??
Took her out today. Not sure what it is. Whenever I hit 30 MPH she starts to bounce. It's more of a rolling bouncing from the rear of the truck to the front or front to rear. She does it during acceleration or coasting. No issues at 27MPH and below and no issues at 33 MPH and above. Any ideas? My cargo trucks don't do this. Is this common with the 109 b/c of the extra weight on the rear?
Took her out today. Not sure what it is. Whenever I hit 30 MPH she starts to bounce. It's more of a rolling bouncing from the rear of the truck to the front or front to rear. She does it during acceleration or coasting. No issues at 27MPH and below and no issues at 33 MPH and above. Any ideas? My cargo trucks don't do this. Is this common with the 109 b/c of the extra weight on the rear?
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