Pyrometers, options, mounts...

[cranetruck]

See what gauges will do to you.

 

[area52]

trailer

Hello,
Here is my addition to the pyro mount fest!
What numbers is everyone else seeing post-turbo thermocouple?
I see about 1000F during a hard climb!

Otter,

What sort of trailer is that? Looks nice BTW. Any other pics of it?

 

[Otter]

RE: trailer

Hey
Thanks, the trailer is a synthisis of several parts. The first part is the M-200 2.5 ton generator trailer. The second part is the 12' 2.5 ton bed, and the final part is an adapter made from 8" channel steel and some 8" flat stock welded into a box spaced exactly the same dimensions as the M-35 truck frame, which allows the original 2.5 ton bed to be bolted to the adapter without modification. The M-200 trailer has multiple holes in the cross beams which allow easy bolting to the adapter. The trailer uses the truck service air for braking and the trailer weighs aprox 4500lbs. I have had 2.5 cubic yards of wet base rock in the trailer! base rock weighs 2000lbs per yard! the tires were close to the rated load. The trailer pulled nicely loaded, but the weight was very evident during accell and decell!
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/otteravbuthed/DSC00575.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/otteravbuthed/DSC00573.jpg
The above pics were too big to upload. I will be looking for a bogie from a 2.5 ton truck and get another 2.5 ton trailer and use both axles and bogie to create a larger capacity trailer. Anyone have a deuce bogie near the central coast area of California the want to get rid of cheap?
eric

 

[OPCOM]

RE: trailer

post-turbo install pics:

http://www.bunkerofdoom.com/mil/m35/pyro/index.html

I don't claim it's pretty, only that it works.

 

[Recovry4x4]

RE: trailer

Eric, if you were to find a cheap M313, M447, M749 or M750 expandible trailer or just the chassis, it has a straight axle system that uses most deuce bogie parts. It would make a good bogie assy for a trailer like you're building.

 

[houdel]

Hello,
Here is my addition to the pyro mount fest!
What numbers is everyone else seeing post-turbo thermocouple?
I see about 1000F during a hard climb!

I'd be pretty nervous about running at 1000F with a post turbo pyro. Everything I've read says the MINIMUM difference between pre and post turbo pyros is 100F, most seem to think 200F-300F is more typical. So at 1000F post turbo, depending on how close you are to the turbo outlet and whether yours is a temperature balanced pyrometer or not, you may be running way too hot at the turbo inlet.

 

[devilman96]

Ah... if you guys are gonna keep kicking this thread Im gonna have to add mine to...

I've had a few point out that they want their EGT mounted "in your face" so to speak... Nice thing about this one is that it is programmable with a warring led for high and low temp so having it staring back at you is not such a biggie.

I was also able to disassembly this gauge and machine the face ring down in size to better match the stock gauges... Not a perfect match but better than it was.... Need to pull the cover again and paint the needle orange to match the engine temp gauge but over all I think It worked out looking like it belongs.

 

[OPCOM]

Maybe we can rename the thread to trailers and turbos! That is a nioce looking panel.

On the trailer,I like the size of it. have no place to park one that big. The M105 and other heavy duty trailers actual square feet available is disappointing considering how well they are made.

 

[OPCOM]

Turned up the juice today. First, I did it wrong, and turned it down one flat (1/6 turn) and the beast wouldn't start! so i'm thinking crap i broke it.. but then recalled what I did, and went and turned it clockwise as viewed from the front. Total of 1 flat increase over the original setting. Mine's always been a hard starter in 50 degree weather, but it was easier this time. I have not driven it yet due to other pending work but there's a definite difference in the exhaust tone when you blip the throttle. It's very crisp, reminds me of a dodge cummins someone had hopped up. -and also rewarded by a small puff of dark smoke. No soot really, so it's probably just about right. road test later. And thanks to Ryan and everyone for for this thread. I was afraid to try it till I knew exactly what to do.

 

[houdel]

TXSG 19 - one full turn is a LOT more fuel. Better install a pre turbo pyrometer before you do much hard driving. Mine WAS a hard starter, I've gone up 1/2 turn, starts real sweet now, but even empty on a long steep hill I'm pushing 1150-1200F EGT. I'll probably back off 1/6th turn (one flat) to keep me out of trouble. I don't need the miniscule amount of extra power but I sure would like to keep my turbo intact!

 

[OPCOM]

I have no intention of going one turn, only the 1/6 turn I did. I'll get a feel for it over the next couple weeks.

 

[Djfreema]

My truck was a hard starter when I first got it, I tightened up the fittings on the fuel return lines between the injectors and it fixed the problem. My truck starts in less than a second of hitting the start button. The loose fittings allowed air to get sucked into the return lines when the engine was off which had to be purged back out creating the delayed starting. That is my theory anyways, never hurts to tighten them up and see if it helps.

 

[DrFoster]

This morning I mounted a pyro 2" downstream of the turbo outlet. Is there a big difference between 6" and 2"?

It was a bear removing the clamps and that short pipe, they have not been off since 1991. Got the nipple or whatever it's called TIG welded on, and put it back together. I pushed the laden beast (20,000 GVW according to the scales) as hard as I could, and had a hard time getting 900 degrees out of it.

Only at 55 charging up a hill, and decelerating despite having the pedal to the metal. I suppose I could turn it up 1/6 turn and see what I get. Maybe there is alot of difference in 100 degrees?

I noted that the pyro guage itself, disconnected, sits at 50 degrees. normal? Connected to a cold engine, it does not move any, so maybe that is right. It's all new stuff.

On level road, 55, stayed around 700. Surprised how fast the temp decreases when the fuel is let off at speed.

Sounds like you're in for a good thread here - as all turbo threads in this website here turn out to be. Welcome to the black magic arena of forced induction.

If you're 2" behind (down-wind) of the turbocharger, add in 100 degrees C for temp drop from soak and so forth on the vanes of the turbo and housing and you should have a good idea of your actual temp. If you're at winter temps and sea level pressure altitudes (0-3000' msl, 50-75 degrees F) you can probably turn that up to about 950-1000 on your EGT safely.

Just a note; be wary of how much your egt changes with the altitude if you're climbing lots of hills like I have out here any tuning to "altitude" will render lower altitudes useless or even dangerous over a 3-5000' change. Running rich causes a lot of turbine-rotational mass increases with the quick soot deposits, and lean goes without saying.

Most of the guys who really want the best performance out of their engines with turbos fit BOTH an EGT and a A/F ratio gauge. I've explained in another thread the relationship of how it is important to know both and how they operate together on a diesel too; let me know if you want the link, I'll go dig it up. Air/Fuel kit runs around 350-800 for all of the parts and probes, so they are not cheap, but it is a lot less expensive than replacing an engine if you want to squeeze every last drop of pulling power out of your deuce.

Guys who just want to "tweak" like 99% of us won't need an A/F, but if you have deep pockets or plan on entering the next tractor pull, you may want to look into it. good luck, and enjoy testing! Let us know your results!

 

[OPCOM]

I ended up with 1/3 total turn (2 flats) and run 850 or so on the highway. Get to 900 on hills, it's hard to get it any higher, so I should be in the safe zone. If as you say putting it closer to the turbine exhaust makes the temp indicate higher than it is, I am in good shape. My main goal was to be able to do better on highway (interstate) hills and I run mainly about 500FT above seal level here in Texas. I did see some 3000 FT elevations when I visited Bjorn. Before I tweek another 1/6 turn (if i ever do) I want to remove the valve covers and check the clearance. I get a very slight ticking, always had it, and a very slightly un-even note and I think I need to inspect the vale adjustmetns. As for climbing hills in altitude, I got to 1000 degrees once leaving Bjorn's, but quickly backed off, since I am not experienced in this yet. better safe than sorry.

Please explain about lean? I think I was lean to begin with.

 

[brgmchevy]

I moved some things around on my dash and installed a NEW S/W pyro I found on ebay, after much searching, for $60. I removed my turbo and installed the probe in the turbo inlet housing. My turbo is larger and from some other motor, which I haven't identified yet.

 

[red devils dude]

brgmchevy I thought you found out it(turbo) was off a LDS motor.

 

[jwaller]

I like boost. As you can tell me pyro isn't hooked up yet.

 

[jimk]

Hi group,

This C.J Baker article covers a lot.Gale Banks has been at this a long time.

http://bankspower.com/Tech_whyegt.cfm

JimK

 

[jimk]

I forgot to mention ,

the 'Trouble Shooting Manual LDS-465-1 Multifuel Engine' has a section for setting the pump with a boost gage.The presures this engine uses are higher(It has a bigger turbo and stronger pistons)but the methods can be used on the LDT.I think it is available in the TM resources area.
JimK

 

[Djfreema]

That is a cool guage, I like the combined setup for quick reading. Where did you get it and how much if you dont mind me asking?