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Question about rim nuts (not lug nuts) on 24 bolt even-spaced rims

Enforced_Leo44

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Finally got my hands on a full set of 37s Goodyear Wrangler MT, as well as 24 bolt rims

The studs on the rim halves don't look super clean but they are not damaged, I tried cleaning them with one of those "stud cleaning brushes" that you can put on a power drill and they came out decent
All the nuts look pretty nice as well, not super clean but the threads are fine

The thing that bothers me a bit is that every nut gets impossible to screw in by hand after 2-3 turns, and the impact wrench does struggle a bit (sure, it's not a Milwaukee but it should get the job done)
Is this normal and I'm just overthinking all of this or should I get 96 new nuts?
 

MarkM

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The studs and nuts have an anti rust coating applied to them and I would venture that is causing the issue you are experiencing. A Little light oil on the studs will help. If you cleaned them up with a wire brush that's about all you can do. I've touched up my studs and nuts (where needed) with a silver paint to protect them. Good luck.

Mark
 

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Mogman

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What I do is I have a set of "normal" flanged nuts, I use them to put the rim together and torque the to 80-90%, then after checking for leaks I air the tire down, remove every other nut and replace with distorted thread nuts torque them down, then replace the other half of them and torque them.
I find it easier to evenly pull the rim halves together with non locking nuts, and if for some reason I need to take it apart again it is easier..
 

mgFray

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What I do is I have a set of "normal" flanged nuts, I use them to put the rim together and torque the to 80-90%, then after checking for leaks I air the tire down, remove every other nut and replace with distorted thread nuts torque them down, then replace the other half of them and torque them.
I find it easier to evenly pull the rim halves together with non locking nuts, and if for some reason I need to take it apart again it is easier..
This is exactly what I did when I mounted my tiers on the rims. 100x easier (I actually used thick washers and regular nuts, but same concept). Then all I was fighting installing the flanged lock nuts was the distorted threads and not the clamping force on the wheels.

And if not clear, everything I've read on this is ALWAYS use new flanged lock nuts, don't re-use them! I bought a bag of 100 of them on ebay for a reasonable amount of money (like 20 cents a nut) a while back.
 

MarkM

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It states 450lbs but I can say it has done every job I've asked it to do so far. It is on the large size so it physically won't fit everywhere.

Mark
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
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  • 1/2-Inch Electric Impact Wrench Comes With 7.5 Amp Motor For Heavy Duty Applications
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HoveringHMMWV

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I have the same wrench, and although quite heavy, it does the job. You better be holding on tight though.
 

Enforced_Leo44

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Parma, Italy
What I do is I have a set of "normal" flanged nuts, I use them to put the rim together and torque the to 80-90%, then after checking for leaks I air the tire down, remove every other nut and replace with distorted thread nuts torque them down, then replace the other half of them and torque them.
I find it easier to evenly pull the rim halves together with non locking nuts, and if for some reason I need to take it apart again it is easier..
Could I replace the distorted thread nuts with these kind of nuts?
Mainly because here in Italy, other than being almost impossible to find, 1/2-20 distorted thread flange nuts are like 3-4$ each, while these kinds (same thread of course, just not distorted) go for 50cents

1687688954601.png
 

Mogman

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Could I replace the distorted thread nuts with these kind of nuts?
Mainly because here in Italy, other than being almost impossible to find, 1/2-20 distorted thread flange nuts are like 3-4$ each, while these kinds (same thread of course, just not distorted) go for 50cents

View attachment 900294
I would re-use the old nuts before using an ungraded nut.
 
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