Question About Torque

[jplace1011]

Quick Question about my M1009 6.2 Engine: (I’m still learning, so bare with me) I’ve never used a Torque Wrench, but I would like to use one for the bolts for the Oil Pan. I have a small oil leak and am thinking I can properly tighten those up first. I’m hoping that will stop the leak.

I found the Torque Specs for the Oil Pan in TM 9-2815-237-34. I’m wondering, what’s the exact Torque Number for the specs that have a dash? Example: Tighten studs to
156-240 lb.-in. So does that mean tighten between 156 and 240lb? That seems like an awfully big range! Maybe I’m not reading it correctly?

**I have drawn Red Squares around the two Specs Below

And just to verify, the proper use of a Torque Wrench. If, for example, something is supposed to be tightened to 20 lb-ft., you would set the dial on the wrench to 20 then turn it until clicks right?

Thank you in advance!

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[Weldman]

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[Mainsail]

Make sure you have the right torque wrench. Those torques are in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds.

The reason for the broad range is so you can tighten them to the middle of the range, and if that proves not to be enough, you may keep tightening until it is, up to but not exceeding the high number. The danger is dimpling the oil pan around the bolt holes, or stripping the threads out of the block.

 

[jplace1011]

Make sure you have the right torque wrench. Those torques are in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds.

The reason for the broad range is so you can tighten them to the middle of the range, and if that proves not to be enough, you may keep tightening until it is, up to but not exceeding the high number. The danger is dimpling the oil pan around the bolt holes, or stripping the threads out of the block.

@Mainsail wow!! I didn’t realize that at all! Thank you.

With that in mind, does this Wrench look correct?

EPAuto 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb. / 2.26 ~ 22.6 Nm) https://a.co/d/aawNyqz


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[jplace1011]

@Mainsail wow!! I didn’t realize that at all! Thank you.

With that in mind, does this Wrench look correct?

EPAuto 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb. / 2.26 ~ 22.6 Nm) https://a.co/d/aawNyqz


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@Mainsail I also have noticed it’s ft./lb. for other screws and bolts in various places.

It seems that it’s both, so maybe I should just get 2 Torque Wrenches: one for in./lb. and another for ft./lb.

They are not expensive about $30 each.


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[87cr250r]

Using a torque wrench to tighten bolts isn't much different than using a hammer to type on your keyboard. It's not a precision process hence the need for a wide range.

If tightening the bolts doesn't fix the leak and you decide to reseal the pan make sure you don't use a gasket. They didn't come from the factory with one and they all leak after you install one.

 

[Weldman]

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[Guyfang]

Make sure you have the right torque wrench. Those torques are in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds.

The reason for the broad range is so you can tighten them to the middle of the range, and if that proves not to be enough, you may keep tightening until it is, up to but not exceeding the high number. The danger is dimpling the oil pan around the bolt holes, or stripping the threads out of the block.

And if you ever take the oil pan off, lay a straight edge on it, to see if you have dimples in the pan. We had this problem for ever, on 15 KW gen sets, and in the end, could only order new pans. The old pans simply would not stop leaking, no matter what we did.

 

[87cr250r]

You get the dimples from trying to use it with a gasket. Ditch the gasket as use the right silicone and the leaks will stop.

 

[cucvrus]

Terminus M1009 | Page 11 | SteelSoldiers
Do as you wish on the pan sealer. I have always had the best results using the Fel-Pro gasket set and the Permatex Right Stuff sealer. And as far as the pan divots, I use the egged on the anvil or solid surface and tap the edge straight and smooth with a body hammer. I use Permatex RS on both sides and seal it right up. Preview the Terminus M1009 tread. You could see if it took that abuse it will do wonders as a daily driver. Good Luck do as you wish and yes new, the engines did have just GM sealant, but they were new, and upside down when being built. The gaskets just give it little more sealer and forgivingness. Good Luck and report back so we can all see your results.

 

[Mainsail]

Something to remember when using sealant- read the label. Seems simple, but you might find the label telling you to let it cure for 24 hours before exposing it to the transmission fluid. That means you leave the pan empty until the next day- something to consider if you have the truck half-way in the garage on ramps. Don't ask me why I know this...

 

[cucvrus]

Permatex the Right Stuff is ready in 1 minute. I have been using it for 20 years and have not had a leak when the surfaces are properly cleaned and prepped. They must be matching surfaces. This cannot be applied to a leak like caulking a leaky patio door or a window. Like everything the surfaces must be clean and mate properly and DO NOT OVER APPLY. Good Luck. I know there will be many naysayers there always is. I am just speaking from my experience over the years. Permatex® The Right Stuff® Black 1 Minute Gasket Maker, 5 OZ – Permatex

 

[87cr250r]

Definitely go with the Right Stuff. The older generation red and blue silicones are highly permeable and will seep oil even if properly applied.