Questions on Removing Transmission

[M35A2-AZ]

I am about to remove my transmission on my M35A2 and I have some questions for you guys.
I looked at the TM and it tells you to remove them, but can you just do it with out removing them all the way?
1. Do you have to remove the PTO to get the clearance you need to move the transmission back?
2. Do you have to remove the jack shaft all the way out or can you just move it to one side?

The problem I am having is I am getting oil out of the bell housing hole, I think it is gear oil form the transmission and the clutch has started to slip.

 

[clinto]

I always pull the jack shaft.

You can remove and install with the PTO but it's much more challenging.

I've done them with overhead gantry cranes, a lift on the back of a tractor, engine hoist and the correct GI hoist.

The biggest benefit to leaving the PTO on is that you can actually get a dial indicator on it on the ground and shim it properly. Doing it in the truck is more or less a "what feels correct" maneuver.

 

[porkysplace]

I am about to remove my transmission on my M35A2 and I have some questions for you guys.
I looked at the TM and it tells you to remove them, but can you just do it with out removing them all the way?
1. Do you have to remove the PTO to get the clearance you need to move the transmission back?
2. Do you have to remove the jack shaft all the way out or can you just move it to one side?

The problem I am having is I am getting oil out of the bell housing hole, I think it is gear oil form the transmission and the clutch has started to slip.

There is no seal on the input shaft , I would drain a little gear oil out and spray the clutch with brake cleaner before pulling the transmission.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

There is no seal on the input shaft , I would drain a little gear oil out and spray the clutch with brake cleaner before pulling the transmission.

I have been dealing with this for a long time now. I tried to lower the level in the transmission and it helped a little.
But on long runs like 60 miles it leaks out about 1oz when I stop. Now the clutch has started to slip. So it is time to see
what the problem is.

 

[dmetalmiki]

As you are not certain the oil is coming from the gearbox, check any drop in engine oil. Also try to check What Sort of oil is dripping, Gearbox oil will be clean (and a different smell to it (in myM35A2 as I use ex army OEP 220 gear oil)). Engine oil will be "blackish" .

 

[gringeltaube]

1. Do you have to remove the PTO to get the clearance you need to move the transmission back?
2. Do you have to remove the jack shaft all the way out or can you just move it to one side?

1. NO
2. YES, remove. It's only 4 more bolts/nuts.
3. Remove the top cover before pulling the transmission.




G.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

As you are not certain the oil is coming from the gearbox, check any drop in engine oil. Also try to check What Sort of oil is dripping, Gearbox oil will be clean (and a different smell to it (in myM35A2 as I use ex army OEP 220 gear oil)). Engine oil will be "blackish" .

It does smell like gear oil to me. When it drips on the pan it is clear then the motor oil.
Thanks.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

1. NO
2. YES, remove. It's only 4 more bolts/nuts.
3. Remove the top cover before pulling the transmission.

G.

gringeltaube, Thanks for you input. I have it ready to drop tomorrow, I am here by myself right now and do not want to do it by myself.
Will wait for soldier B.
Thank you!

 

[Jeepsinker]

Ahh, it's easy by yourself. Just don't drop it on your head. It is nice to have help putting them back in though.
Also, go ahead and order an input shaft bearing and a pilot bushing. You are going to need them.

 

[m-35tom]

1. NO
2. YES, remove. It's only 4 more bolts/nuts.
3. Remove the top cover before pulling the transmission.
G.

yes definately remove the top cover in the truck!! it makes it far easier. common failures are
1: front bearing, trans must come apart but is easy. use the correct bearing, there are several that will fit but only one correct.
2: front bearing retainer, worn, loose, no gasket, someone used silicone or some other sealer that should not be there.
3: oil level should be at bottom of fill plug hole, trans by itself holds 5 qts.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

yes definately remove the top cover in the truck!! it makes it far easier. common failures are
1: front bearing, trans must come apart but is easy. use the correct bearing, there are several that will fit but only one correct.
2: front bearing retainer, worn, loose, no gasket, someone used silicone or some other sealer that should not be there.
3: oil level should be at bottom of fill plug hole, trans by itself holds 5 qts.

Thanks, I saw a thread last week about p/n's to use and not to use for the bearings and now I can find it.

 

[Warthog]

I have pulled many Deuce transmissions by myself.

4x4 through the front window and over the rear wall. And a 2ton chain hoist.

Seems like it takes longer to remove the seats and the sheet metal than it does to remove the tranny.

I have used the same method to remove a transfer case in a M818. Now that is a heavy unit.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Here's how I did mine, twice now. First to replace the trans and second to replace the engine.
Both times did it solo, chain fall and Hi-Lift jack

 

[M35A2-AZ]

Well I got the transmission out this afternoon with out any problems.
But I need to figure out what is bad, the main seal or the transmission.
The transmission input shaft moves around a lot. So I am thinking that is the problem.

My question is on the pressure plate, Is that TM says to put blocks under the fingers and then remove the plate.
Is that how you have to do it? Or just remove the bolts slowly around the pressure plate?

 

[clinto]

Well I got the transmission out this afternoon with out any problems.
But I need to figure out what is bad, the main seal or the transmission.
The transmission input shaft moves around a lot. So I am thinking that is the problem.

My question is on the pressure plate, Is that TM says to put blocks under the fingers and then remove the plate.
Is that how you have to do it? Or just remove the bolts slowly around the pressure plate?

The blocks are to make it easier to install the pressure plate. When the pressure plate is not bolted on, the fingers are at their maximum height and the pressure plate disc is "closer" to the flywheel relative to the pressure plate mounting flange.

When you're tightening the bolts down, you'll actually see the fingers moving in, because you're forcing the pressure plate disc backwards. That's why a lot of clutches have an "installed height" spec for the fingers.

In short: If you're re-using the pressure plate, it will make re-installation easier. Otherwise don't bother.

Make sure while you're in there to pull, clean and reseal everything.

 

[paradeduty]

I have to tell all of you guys on SS - this was a great thread! I just kind of browsed it for no other reason than to maybe learn something. I was very impressed about the real help that many of you guys offered. The pictures were great and will no doubt help a lot of guys in the future. Good Job! Dave.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Your input shaft bearing is bad. That's why I said to go ahead and order one, and order a pilot bushing while you are at it. Your new clutch kit may come with a new bushing but some don't. The bad input bearing has allowed the input shaft to walk around and wear the inside of the bearing retainer/ shaft sleeve, which is what directs the gear oil back into the transmission via spiral cut grooves on the inside surface. Replace these three components as well as the clutch ( depending on condition of friction material and surfaces) and you will have your problem fixed.

 

[Warthog]

And while you have apart you may want to replace the rear main oil seal.

 

[m-35tom]

Your input shaft bearing is bad. That's why I said to go ahead and order one, and order a pilot bushing while you are at it. Your new clutch kit may come with a new bushing but some don't. The bad input bearing has allowed the input shaft to walk around and wear the inside of the bearing retainer/ shaft sleeve, which is what directs the gear oil back into the transmission via spiral cut grooves on the inside surface. Replace these three components as well as the clutch ( depending on condition of friction material and surfaces) and you will have your problem fixed.

well with respect, i take a little issue with this. without the pilot to hold it, the input shaft does move around. it is a relative thing and subject to experience. it should not move in or out and if you hold the front fixed the gear in the trans should not move side to side any at all. at this point by all means remove the front retainer and inspect and replace gasket. also give a better look at the bearing. also now is the time to replace the rear main seal even if it is not leaking. as far as the clutch, that is a judgement call and should you do it, do it all and resurface the flywheel. many people make the mistake of not resurfacing, but any wear and the new disk will not have full contact and will slip.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes Tom, I understand and agree there will be some movement without the pilot supported, but there shouldn't be enough for someone to say "Oooh, that isn't good" and certainly not enough to contact the retainer. I've not seen one yet that was leaking out the front that didn't have a bad input bearing, pilot bushing, or both. How else would the retainer get worn unless one or the other or both were worn and allowing shaft to retainer contact? I'm not being condescending at all, I know that you have many more years of hands on experience with these than I do. I'm just going from my experience and mechanical knowledge, along with some common sense.