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Quieting down the low air warning buzzer?
- Thread starter RedbeardTheZombieHunter
- Start date
Jesse6325
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I know it's annoying but trust me, that buzzer is your friend.
Just start the truck up, Make sure you have oil pressure and take the time to do a good walk around.
By the time you get done checking everything you should have enough air pressure that the buzzer should be off.
If it's still going then either
1. you did not do a very good preop,,
or 2. You have a major air leak and are not going anywhere until it's fixed.
Just start the truck up, Make sure you have oil pressure and take the time to do a good walk around.
By the time you get done checking everything you should have enough air pressure that the buzzer should be off.
If it's still going then either
1. you did not do a very good preop,,
or 2. You have a major air leak and are not going anywhere until it's fixed.
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- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
My xm757 came with a lot of mods from factory, which were improvements over the then existing 2-1/2 and 5-ton trucks, one is a "silencer" momentary break bush-button switch (dwg below)...
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F18hornetM
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- Ocean City, Md
I honestly dont see the big deal. Its no louder than the whole truck running. Its there for a reason. While its buzzing, is a good time for the engine to warm up some. At least a little. I like the light idea, but would still have the buzzer. Its like safety switches/devices on equipment can be a pain in the butt, they are also there for a reason. Somethings just aren't worth screwing with in my opinion.
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- Dayton, OH
I vote for leaving it alone and adding the light. Safer.
steelandcanvas
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- Southwestern Idaho
I would get it fixed. Liability issues are not your friend.
AN/ARC186
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After reading all these posts I've decided something, I'm adding a light to go with my buzzer!
wsucougarx
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Hmm, I must be a sick individual or something but the buzzer doesn't bother me. In fact, I have accepted it as part of driving MV's. It is definately a peace of mind to know if that buzzer should ever go off, I won't mistake it for something else. Instead, that'll be my queue to pull the heck over ASAP. I did install the Low Air Warning Light, not to replace the buzzer, but rather to accompany it.
Plus I also think of it as a possible anti-theft device. Should an unknowing thief, not knowing about the buzzer, gets far enough to figure out how to flip the master switch, will likely have a surprise. I think that buzzer should scare anyone away not expecting it
Plus I also think of it as a possible anti-theft device. Should an unknowing thief, not knowing about the buzzer, gets far enough to figure out how to flip the master switch, will likely have a surprise. I think that buzzer should scare anyone away not expecting it
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- 2,186
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- Zimmerman MN
I drive for a living. The buzzer is your friend.
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lowair warning light!
tco3129
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As everyone has said, it's your friend. If I'm working on the truck and need the power on I simply reach under the dash and unplug it. Also the first thing I reconnect before finishing up.
PsycoBob
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- Auburn, NY
I'll shortly be adding a momentary 'stfu' button to trip a spdt relay, powered by the low-air switch. As long as the switch provides power after I hit the button, relay stays powered & disconnects the buzzer. When the switch turns off, relay resets & buzzer operates normally. A light will be powered directly from the low-air switch.
My truck's quiet enough with my huge muffler & anti-rattle upgrades that the buzzer is audible from halfway down the block. It's definitely meant to be heard thru earplugs.
If I remember I'll make up a wiring diagram later.
My truck's quiet enough with my huge muffler & anti-rattle upgrades that the buzzer is audible from halfway down the block. It's definitely meant to be heard thru earplugs.
If I remember I'll make up a wiring diagram later.
Rustygears
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Current DOT requirement is to have at a minimum a visual warning device like a light or wigwag. The buzzer is optional. With that said, I like the buzzer because I keep my eyes on the road and out the window, not on the dash! Needless to say I have both buzzer and light and will keep'em.
Trango
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- Boulder, CO
If the sound of the buzzer is too much, why don't you guys just switch the "off-on" switch to "off" while the truck is warming up and building pressure? You'll have to switch it back to ON to get functional indicators and headlights, and since those are noticeable when they're not working, even if you forget to turn the switch to "on" when you start driving, you won't have the switch in "off" for long.
Best,
Bob
Best,
Bob
jwaller
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turn the battery switch off till the air builds up.
quickfarms
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Psycobob I like your idea simple and effective. I think I understand what you are planning but I would still like to see your wiring diagram.
135gmc
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I've always found that there is enough noise in the cab that the low air pressure buzzer isn't much of a problem. The truck's air compressor puts out enough air that it shuts up pretty quickly, plus the waiting time lets the truck warm up a bit, plus you have time to walk around and look for odd noises and leaks before you move out. My hearing hasn't gotten better with age, so I added the dash light as well. The buzzer & the light are cheap insurance.
PsycoBob
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- Auburn, NY
Insulated cab + hardtop + MUFFLER (too big for little letters) + 3ft of stack + cab overhang from water body + turned-out exhaust + radiator cover + rattle-pads + WMO fuel = quieter truck at idle than a CUCV, by a LOT. Unless you stand in front of the radiator, it's downright sneaky. The neighbors don't mind me idling to cool the turbo like they did with the whistler. 
Quickfarms, I need a napkin or something to draw on.
Here we go. Javascript online circuit simulator, even lets you play with it. Upper switch between +24v and relay is low-pressure alarm. Resistor is the buzzer- they didn't have a normal one. STFU-button is the switch on the bottom. To make the simulation start, flip the upper switch & push the lower one.
I'm not sure if the actual deuce system grounds the switch to make the buzzer go off, or the reverse. Not that had to modify.
Here
Quickfarms, I need a napkin or something to draw on.
Here we go. Javascript online circuit simulator, even lets you play with it. Upper switch between +24v and relay is low-pressure alarm. Resistor is the buzzer- they didn't have a normal one. STFU-button is the switch on the bottom. To make the simulation start, flip the upper switch & push the lower one.
I'm not sure if the actual deuce system grounds the switch to make the buzzer go off, or the reverse. Not that had to modify.
Here
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- 2,186
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- Zimmerman MN
Is this a trick question? Or are the A2's different than the A3's? Buzzer and lights on the A3 are dependant on the accessory switch. Starting the vehicle is dependant on the accessory switch. Is there no accessory switch on A2's? What am I missing here?
Trango
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- Boulder, CO
At least with the A2, you need the switch on to start, but then you can flip it off while pressure builds. I'm not sure if the a3 uses any sort of fuel solenoid or if the engine needs 24v+ to run.