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Radiator and master cyl.

bigmech

Member
166
0
16
Location
Potterville Mi 48813
I can't find a radiator for my 1968 m35, mine was wrecked by the forktruck tines at the G.L.site when they tried to move the truck for me. The master cyl. was laying on the floor and I can't seem to get it back into place, I can't make it fit up where it's suppose to go , it seems too big.It looks brand new but I know that doesn't mean anything. Anybody with any help?
 

ojsdna744

Member
297
0
16
Location
Lapeer/Michigan
On the Master cylinder...got a picture of it? Perhaps someone can tell by the picture if it's the correct one for your truck. If nobody is closer, perhaps I can drop by and see for you, I'm relatively new to the hobby, but more than willing to help. Or, depending on your travels, you could always drop by and compare it to the one on my truck. :)
 

Djfreema

In Memorial
In Memorial
1,156
2
0
Location
Santa Clarita, Ca
There is a brand new radiator on Ebay right now. Starting bid is $650, no bids as of earlier today. $650 seems to be what the surplus places want for a NOS one. Any chance the old one can be rebuilt or salvaged? Might save you alot of money. Try and get some pics of the master cylinder area of your truck.
 

Boatcarpenter

New member
1,877
17
0
Location
Marlborough, NH
Master Cyl. Info

Here are some pics and some dimensions for a Deuce master Cyl.
With no fittings installed: 6 3/4" long, 5 3/4 " tall, 4" wide, Mounting face 3 1/2 " square.
To get it in or out, if I recall correctly, you must have the boot and plunger rod removed
Hope this helps,
BC
 

Attachments

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,325
283
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
RE: Master Cyl. Info

The radiator on ebay is from Sam Winer the latesd add has it for $590 so call it will be cheapper and he is the cheapist for them all # 330-628-4881.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,424
2,496
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
RE: Master Cyl. Info

Try a local radiator shop that does truck stuff. I'm sure they can re core it for less than 600. They're a btich to get in there. You have to loosen the whole bracket that bolts to the frame toget it in the hole. I'd rebuild or get a fresh one. It's a bit of work to replace it. The TMs here have the procedure, or I have them in PDF on CD. If you want, i can burn a copy and send it to you. bigmech, Where are you located?
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,806
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Location
GA Mountains
RE: Master Cyl. Info

The master cylinders can be weaseled in there without taking everything else loose. As shown in the pics from BC, the end fitting needs to be removed to remove/install the master cylinder. Trust me on this one, I've done no less than 5 of them.
 

red devils dude

New member
1,958
3
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Location
Ft Campbell
RE: Master Cyl. Info

bad news new core's for the deuce are $746 for the correct one, there's only one company that makes them and they cost big buck's.
 

bigmech

Member
166
0
16
Location
Potterville Mi 48813
RE: GL lot

You guys are too much, thanks for all the info. I'm located in charlotte mi.48813 *** *** **** any more help would be great.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

citizensoldier

Active member
3,981
16
38
Location
Northern Michigan. Smelt City
If I buy..

If I buy the lot what will you guys give me for one? This will dictate how far out I hang my monitary butt. I need one. Will sell the other ones for even price devided up on what I spend. That is if I can get it. I am sure some big deep pocket individuals know about it now and I dont have a shot. :cry:
 

ojsdna744

Member
297
0
16
Location
Lapeer/Michigan
I'd give a 100-150 bucks for one that was pressure tested good. Anything more than that, I'll just get off my lazy but and have my current leak fixed.
 

Blake

Active member
321
60
28
Location
Opp, Alabama
Quit whining and just get off that money and replace it . If you want a nice truck, you're going to have to put a little in it :)

I have a Sam Winer new radiator in my truck and it is nice. Was cheaper/equal to buying a new one so I didnt mess with recoring the existing one.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,118
32
48
Location
Dexter, MI
ojsdna744 said:
I'd give a 100-150 bucks for one that was pressure tested good. Anything more than that, I'll just get off my lazy but and have my current leak fixed.
Don't just look for a good pressure test on a rad. Check to make sure calcium deposits have not choked off the core. They can be rodded but this is expensive and is only done with very expensive rads. I used to work at a radiator shop a few years ago (20) but I can't tell you what rodding will cost today. We used to love radiator stop leak. This stuff is junk. Never use it. It will tend to close off stuff it should not. The smaller passages of heater cores usually get clogged. We changed alot of heater cores with low output do to being clogged with stop leak. If your passages are pretty closed off with deposits to begin with then the stop leak will close off some of the tubes. Just enough to cause an annoying over heat that boils over when it gets really hot or you really work the engine. Also make sure the fins are straight and not rotting away.

Either way make sure any used rad you get is good all the way around. The rad in my new cucv is almost choked off with deposits. I have a spare I am replacing it with.

I also agree that you should just buck up and get the new one. That being said I am still trying to come up with $600 to put new tires on my tractor.
 
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