123pv
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I live in south Louisiana. 90 degree days are every day. is it possible to install a biger Radiator? I did put 35 inch tires on my truck. I think transmission cooler would help.
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Radiator question
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rustystud
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If you have the M1008 radiator then you have the largest radiator ever made for this truck. It is a 4 core copper radiator and it's over 4 inches longer then a civilian model. Unless you specified at time of purchase the stock radiator is much smaller.
MarcusOReallyus
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A trans cooler is a good idea. In your climate, plumb it in before the radiator, not after, like is usually recommended. The reason is, you are trying to keep your engine cooler, right? So you want to dump the heat out of the transmission fluid before it gets to the radiator. You don't want that heat dumping into your cooling system.
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If the radiator, and the rest of the cooling system, is in good shape, please consider a better fan setup. It's almost hard to go wrong with properly sized and shrouded Spal electric fans.
For what it's worth, I drove my Banks turbo'd M1009 with 35-inch tires and stock 3.08s for a while, in temperatures that often reached 100 degrees, and up an 8-mile stretch of 8% grade on a daily basis without any overheating tendencies.
Yes, it definitely ran better up that hill with a 700R4 and 4.10 gears, but if you have an M1008 (I only know that it's a CUCV) with stock gears, and given the lack of mountains in Louisiana, gearing wouldn't be an issue anyway.
For what it's worth, I drove my Banks turbo'd M1009 with 35-inch tires and stock 3.08s for a while, in temperatures that often reached 100 degrees, and up an 8-mile stretch of 8% grade on a daily basis without any overheating tendencies.
Yes, it definitely ran better up that hill with a 700R4 and 4.10 gears, but if you have an M1008 (I only know that it's a CUCV) with stock gears, and given the lack of mountains in Louisiana, gearing wouldn't be an issue anyway.
The thermostat comes from the factory setup for "normal" driving conditions. 95 is considered "extreme heat".
The rating on a thermostat is the temp when it is fully open. It starts to open about 10 deg before it reaches its rated temp. This causes the engine to run at or just under the rated thermostat temp in "normal" weather.
If you want the engine to run at the same temp in "extreme" heat then you have to get one that starts to open about 10 deg sooner. If the normal weather or stock thermostat is rated at 190 then if you install one rated at 175 - 180 the engine will operate at "normal" temp when it is in extreme heat. On the downside if you ever go up north or drive in winter conditions then the engine will not run properly as it will not reach the temp it is designed or tuned to run at.
The rating on a thermostat is the temp when it is fully open. It starts to open about 10 deg before it reaches its rated temp. This causes the engine to run at or just under the rated thermostat temp in "normal" weather.
If you want the engine to run at the same temp in "extreme" heat then you have to get one that starts to open about 10 deg sooner. If the normal weather or stock thermostat is rated at 190 then if you install one rated at 175 - 180 the engine will operate at "normal" temp when it is in extreme heat. On the downside if you ever go up north or drive in winter conditions then the engine will not run properly as it will not reach the temp it is designed or tuned to run at.
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Hard to guess what to recommend, really. All we know is that it's a CUCV of some sort, in Louisiana.
Maybe it is running hot, maybe it isn't.
Maybe it is running hot, maybe it isn't.
corelokt
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Other than throwing money at it and going serpentine belt to be able to run a high output pump and Duramax fan, I don't know. You'd have to find a donor truck for the pieces.
A good Proffessional system flush, that does the radiator, heater core, and any thing in the block that may inhibit heat transfer.
A remote oil cooler from a newer truck, maybe the one with the serpentine belt system helps too. Then you can run your power steering fluid through the old cooler. A good cold air intake run from up front can't hurt. If you can increase airflow under the hood and paint everything on the engine black for heat transfer, that is supposed to be good for lower temps.
I'd like to someday see finned, cast aluminum valve covers and an oil pump.
Aluminum transfers heat well.
A good Proffessional system flush, that does the radiator, heater core, and any thing in the block that may inhibit heat transfer.
A remote oil cooler from a newer truck, maybe the one with the serpentine belt system helps too. Then you can run your power steering fluid through the old cooler. A good cold air intake run from up front can't hurt. If you can increase airflow under the hood and paint everything on the engine black for heat transfer, that is supposed to be good for lower temps.
I'd like to someday see finned, cast aluminum valve covers and an oil pump.
Aluminum transfers heat well.
Last edited:
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I installed a aftermarket rad that is twice the size as the original (cores). The Tanks are bigger too. I got it at a local Rad shop in Houston. It's all aluminum. Tanks and cores. I also swapped the 5 blade fan for a 20 inch 6 blade. I'm running a 180 deg Robert Shaw thermostat. Temps here in SE Texas can get a CUCV pretty warm. It never overheats now. I got it to 185 once while towing my tractor. I do have trouble in the winter getting it warm enough though.
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The fan is a Derale Part Number 17120
86m1028
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Post some pics of it.
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I'd have to pull the cover off the top so you can see, but the cores are as wide as the tanks. The only time the fan clutch engages is when i'm in the woods hauling firewood. It cycles off pretty quickly.