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re-wiring my MEP-004a for different voltages, including single phase
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R Racing
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You may have a DC voltage issue. Popped breaker. Blown fuse, ect, etc.
R Racing
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It shouldn't engage the starter while running if all is good.
bimota
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Please don't ruin this thread by rat-holing down a path that is not the intent of the thread. Please start another thread; I get it that is a little more work but fixing a diesel overun is another topic.
Load balancing and other "proper" effort are not really required in a backup - not often used only in an emergency type of use.
Heat at 220-240 single phase is all this person needs and really wants - so just connect L1 and L3 from generator to L1 and L2 at the panel, ground the generator then crank up the voltage to about 240 across L1 and L3 and run the house. It will work. You are getting 240 volts at less than 180 out of phase but 98% it won't matter to the appliances or equipment. We've done this several times and it works fine 98% of the time. Clocks may bot run at the right speed but computers with DC adapters do fine, resistive loads like your furnace will run fine. There is a minor risk a motor will heat up over time and other issues that are possible but to date we have yet to see any home appliance not work.
Better yet - if big heat is really want then pull the radiator off the MEP and plumb that into your basement - then when you want to heat you home start the MEP and put an electric fan by the radiator and it will heat up your home and melt all the snow off the roof - but that is another topic - someone start a thread "heating your home with an MEP" or cogeneration by another name
Load balancing and other "proper" effort are not really required in a backup - not often used only in an emergency type of use.
Heat at 220-240 single phase is all this person needs and really wants - so just connect L1 and L3 from generator to L1 and L2 at the panel, ground the generator then crank up the voltage to about 240 across L1 and L3 and run the house. It will work. You are getting 240 volts at less than 180 out of phase but 98% it won't matter to the appliances or equipment. We've done this several times and it works fine 98% of the time. Clocks may bot run at the right speed but computers with DC adapters do fine, resistive loads like your furnace will run fine. There is a minor risk a motor will heat up over time and other issues that are possible but to date we have yet to see any home appliance not work.
Better yet - if big heat is really want then pull the radiator off the MEP and plumb that into your basement - then when you want to heat you home start the MEP and put an electric fan by the radiator and it will heat up your home and melt all the snow off the roof - but that is another topic - someone start a thread "heating your home with an MEP" or cogeneration by another name
Triple Jim
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Clock accuracy is dependent on frequency, not voltage.
When I use 2 phases of 3 phase power, I keep the voltage set at 120/208. If you set the output for 240, you'll have about 138 when you expect 120. Most 240v equipment works fine at 208, since manufacturers understand that it's common in industrial settings to have 120/208.
Heating a building using waste engine heat is a great idea!
When I use 2 phases of 3 phase power, I keep the voltage set at 120/208. If you set the output for 240, you'll have about 138 when you expect 120. Most 240v equipment works fine at 208, since manufacturers understand that it's common in industrial settings to have 120/208.
Heating a building using waste engine heat is a great idea!
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artkt
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MEP-006 Single Phase Conversion
Greetings from the frozen north.
First, I want to thank everyone who posted here, it was very helpful and especially the ease with which the generator leads can be reconnected for single phase.
i realize that this thread is somewhat old... But I thought I would share what I have found in my quest to convert a MEP 006 to single phase. What I found in studying the schematics is that there are some important differences between the 004/005 and the 006. So while the generator lead reconnection is spot on for the 006 I found that there are some differences in the VR and control.
The first thing I discovered is that the regulators in the 004/005 and 006 are quite different.
The 004/005 regulator uses 208/240 volts for the excitation power (although it seems from the earlier posts that it can work with 120 volt) and the 006 regulator uses 120 volts.
The 004/005 also uses an isolation transformer in the input/excitation power circuit and an integrated circuit regulator, whereas the 006 uses a RF filter in the input to clean up the noise and has a discreet regulator circuit.
The good news is that for this to work, all that is needed is to move the two small wires from T-12 to T-11 after cutting the bar and installing the jumper as detailed earlier.
The bad news... If both X12EG16N (control neutral) and X12P16N (regulator lead "M") are not moved from T-12 to T-11 (L-0) and the generator is started it will instantly destroy the RF filter in the regulator and/or the field flash relay.
The reason for this is due to the fact that without an isolation transformer the 006's regulator "M" lead must connect to L-0 or ground. This is T-12 in the original configuration. However, when the conversion is done, T-12 becomes L-2.
So, if X12P16N is not moved, when the field flash relay engages and connects the regulator lead "C" to ground it presents a direct short from L-2 to ground through lead "M", the regulator's RFI, and relay K5.
Also, because of this interaction between the DC and AC sides during the field flash, as well as some controls that reference ground, the neutral and ground must remain connected together in the 006.
Sorry about all the technical stuff, but for those who would be interested...
So, the bottom line is that to do the conversion on a 006 is actually simpler than on the 004/005 in that TB-6 (the reconnection board) is easier to get to.
All that is needed is to cut the strap between T-11 and T-12 and install the jumper as detailed in the earlier posts and videos and move the two small wires X12EG16N and X12P16N from T-12 to T-11 (or T-10).
Another thing that that can be done is to install a double-pole switch to switch the big jumper from T-12 to either T-8 or T-11 for single or three phase operation without changing any wiring back over.
Hope this helps...
Greetings from the frozen north.
First, I want to thank everyone who posted here, it was very helpful and especially the ease with which the generator leads can be reconnected for single phase.
i realize that this thread is somewhat old... But I thought I would share what I have found in my quest to convert a MEP 006 to single phase. What I found in studying the schematics is that there are some important differences between the 004/005 and the 006. So while the generator lead reconnection is spot on for the 006 I found that there are some differences in the VR and control.
The first thing I discovered is that the regulators in the 004/005 and 006 are quite different.
The 004/005 regulator uses 208/240 volts for the excitation power (although it seems from the earlier posts that it can work with 120 volt) and the 006 regulator uses 120 volts.
The 004/005 also uses an isolation transformer in the input/excitation power circuit and an integrated circuit regulator, whereas the 006 uses a RF filter in the input to clean up the noise and has a discreet regulator circuit.
The good news is that for this to work, all that is needed is to move the two small wires from T-12 to T-11 after cutting the bar and installing the jumper as detailed earlier.
The bad news... If both X12EG16N (control neutral) and X12P16N (regulator lead "M") are not moved from T-12 to T-11 (L-0) and the generator is started it will instantly destroy the RF filter in the regulator and/or the field flash relay.
The reason for this is due to the fact that without an isolation transformer the 006's regulator "M" lead must connect to L-0 or ground. This is T-12 in the original configuration. However, when the conversion is done, T-12 becomes L-2.
So, if X12P16N is not moved, when the field flash relay engages and connects the regulator lead "C" to ground it presents a direct short from L-2 to ground through lead "M", the regulator's RFI, and relay K5.
Also, because of this interaction between the DC and AC sides during the field flash, as well as some controls that reference ground, the neutral and ground must remain connected together in the 006.
Sorry about all the technical stuff, but for those who would be interested...
So, the bottom line is that to do the conversion on a 006 is actually simpler than on the 004/005 in that TB-6 (the reconnection board) is easier to get to.
All that is needed is to cut the strap between T-11 and T-12 and install the jumper as detailed in the earlier posts and videos and move the two small wires X12EG16N and X12P16N from T-12 to T-11 (or T-10).
Another thing that that can be done is to install a double-pole switch to switch the big jumper from T-12 to either T-8 or T-11 for single or three phase operation without changing any wiring back over.
Hope this helps...
Another Ahab
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Hey artkt, thank you for the G2, and because you appear to be new to the territory here:
- Welcome from the Lower 48 here in Virginia
- Welcome from the Lower 48 here in Virginia
bimota
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Ok lost a voltage regulator this week after a 40 hour run on a converted MEP-004a. We did this MEP-004 a couple years ago but then it sat - we finally put it to real work and it failed after about 40 hours of serious run time. The unit has done three weeks as house backup a couple years ago but now is a grow operation where they are really working it. So I'll try to diagnose on the VR - unit would produce about 75 volts and no more, when holding the start switch up it would climb to about 180 but as soon as you let off the start switch it would run at 75 volts. Nothing obvious on visual inspection of voltage regulator. More to follow - should I start a separate thread?
smurph
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Check this thread. I repaired the VR on one of mine. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?117579-MEP-005A-high-voltage-problem
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When you are ready to start on why your set will not stop, start a new thread. I have some ideas/hints.
Another Ahab
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If you do start a new thread, can you kindly post the link here, please?
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Good Idea Ahab!!!!!!!!!!!!
Another Ahab
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Me?
I said something useful!?
I said something useful!?
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Now don't get all choked up here!
And yes, was a good idea. I have been thinking of every failure I can remember where the set would not turn off. I am having a good time here!
And yes, was a good idea. I have been thinking of every failure I can remember where the set would not turn off. I am having a good time here!
genoredstar
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Sewrezuk,
I have an mp004a fermont 2006 and things seem a bit different. The voltage reconection panel is mounted differently, probably not an issue, However the identifying #s on wiring is different than your video. Can you help? Gene redstarcontracting@gmail.com, Thanks
I have an mp004a fermont 2006 and things seem a bit different. The voltage reconection panel is mounted differently, probably not an issue, However the identifying #s on wiring is different than your video. Can you help? Gene redstarcontracting@gmail.com, Thanks
asloan5
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Matt have you converted any of the Drash 3 phase units to single phase full rating? I have a isuzu powered 20kw 3 phase and was curious. It has a marathon magnaplus 12 lead head with se350 controller. I'm changing it to zigzag 120/240 now. Thank you in advance. Albert