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I would be willing to bet, partially judging by the price, that all these fancy names, are just brand names of typical nickel alloys or maybe a variation of somewhere between a 55% and 99% nickel? Kind of like vice grips and channel locks...I used to use Nomacast and similar N-55-N99 rods for welding cast iron, but I switched to an inconel rod from Aircraft Spruce a couple years back and couldn't be more impressed by this stiuff. It's $200/Lb but seems to flow into the casting porosity almost like a braze.
That said, if it were my truck, I'd replace the block. I too would rather braze than weld for a crack like that, less risk of something happening in the heat-affected zone, it seals better, and the brass has a little give. I'd eventually relax with a nice braze, I don't know that I ever would with a weld.
If you have an inclusion, you simply stop welding, reheat around the weld area, grind the inclusion out and start again, you don't want to try welding over them.Having welded up literally tons of cast-iron the only way to get it to hold is using "Ni-Rod" and "TIG" welding. You also must pre-heat it and then "pen" it afterward during the cool-down period. We had a customer at "Kolstrand Marine" (where I worked as a welder) that had cast-iron valves that he was welding for some special project. I spent 6 months straight welding up that junk. The real problem with any "cast" item is the "inclusions" in the material, especially in cast-iron. You would be happily welding along when you suddenly hit an inclusion and the molten metal would burst on you. Just like hitting a steam pocket. There where times I spent over an hour trying to weld a 1 inch long seam because of all the inclusions in it. Now having said all this if this was my block I would toss it out and get a new one. You can "never" trust a weld on cast-iron" . Sure as the sun rises in the east someday the weld will fail and if your far from home too bad for you.
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