Rebuilding after 15 years of storage

PHOENIX-GER

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I have also considered this. The number is from the front axle? Because of the weight I will then probably test the first time Richard from USA2YOU.nl
 

PHOENIX-GER

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We removed the spring assembly from both axles today. The pictures speak for themselves. When searching for a supply address in Germany, I actually only had hits for used spring assemblies, which in no way looked better than our own... How could it be otherwise, these are also no less old and used than our own. We never replace wear parts with used parts anyway if new available.

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somebody of army had much Fun in the "Sandbox" as i am was only on german asphalt roads

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become a structure like sandstone and need a hammer and chisel to remove

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after first brushcleaning

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front is not so rusty but weak like CUCVRUS noticed.

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and the U-bolts.... I would no longer load the truck fully with this. Can hold or not - ultimately a gamble. Usually such things always like to say goodbye in absolutely inappropriate situations. The decision to exchange would have fallen at the latest now when disassembling. From the outside you can never see how heavy the rust infestation is. I will not pick out the Centerbolt of leaves to check of the rust. This will not be better.

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as the nuts not was to loose had I flexing the U-bolts with much care about the tension. If this happens while driving full speed...

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I hope this are the last rusty bolt and nuts i have to loose...
 

cucvrus

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I was told to never use U-bolts over again. I have but only in a pinch. They are about $10. each. It only cost a few dollars more to do the job right. And experience has told me you spend twice as much on the second repair after the savings repair. Looks Good. Keep up the good work. Happy New Year.
 

PHOENIX-GER

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That is correct CUCVRUS. But I think about ours is no doubt that someone will use them again except they are very stupid. I parted myself very generously with the rusty screws, bolts and nuts. Not just by those with single use like locknuts. They gone all to scrap. If i am ready on the truck is surely one tankfilling the value of ironscrap .... Happy new year
 

Rutjes

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I have also considered this. The number is from the front axle? Because of the weight I will then probably test the first time Richard from USA2YOU.nl
I payed around 1100 euros total for 2 rear spring packs. I had Richard buy and ship them for me. Shipping was the biggest expense at $ 161.31 for having them shipped to Richard and another € 417.92 euros for having them shipped to the Netherlands by FedEx.

IMG-20210906-WA0017(1).jpeg

We tried to find a shop that would allow FedEx to pick them up directly to elimate the shipping fee to Richard, but we could not find one.

I already have U-bolts that came with my ORD lift kit.
 
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PHOENIX-GER

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He is back again from sandblasting and still in one piece 😂

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During the work on blasting we done new seals on the NP208

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We have been able to do a lot of work during the vacation which is now over. From tomorrow we both have to go back to work - we can then relax at work, since our jobs are nowhere near as hard as working on the truck. :ROFLMAO:
 

PHOENIX-GER

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This is going to be nice once it is done.
You've put a lot of work into it.
Thank you for your encouragement. We were faced with the decision to go all the way or not at all and decided on all the way... it costs work and money, but it's also not just any vehicle. Besides, I promised my wife when we put it in storage that one day it would be back on the road.
We still both mourn our M38A1 that we couldn't store back then. And what perhaps simplifies the matter - we are both behind the project and both work on it. So during our vacation we was both from the early morning to the late evening on the workshop. We was asked from neighbours if we also sleep there :ROFLMAO:
 

PHOENIX-GER

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My wife continues to hunt for missing parts. However, parts that were already missing before when handed over from the army:
Original jack for example
Meanwhile we know at least how it looks like and that they are sometimes still available.
Are they any good? then we are willing to spend more money. But if they are more decoration, then buying an additional matching jack lowers the price I would pay for an original jack

Of course there was also not a spare wheel within. I read that this is often occurs. Maybe they doesn`t need them at the army or make a seperat trading within :ROFLMAO:

Sparewheel ist since 1998 in our hands but never attached on the truck.
The original attachment is not exactly user-friendly especially since there is also the civile trailer hitch in the way.
So we plan to find a place on the box with a locking system otherwise it will disappear soon
 

Mullaney

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My wife continues to hunt for missing parts. However, parts that were already missing before when handed over from the army:
Original jack for example
Meanwhile we know at least how it looks like and that they are sometimes still available.
Are they any good? then we are willing to spend more money. But if they are more decoration, then buying an additional matching jack lowers the price I would pay for an original jack

Of course there was also not a spare wheel within. I read that this is often occurs. Maybe they doesn`t need them at the army or make a seperat trading within :ROFLMAO:

Sparewheel ist since 1998 in our hands but never attached on the truck.
The original attachment is not exactly user-friendly especially since there is also the civile trailer hitch in the way.
So we plan to find a place on the box with a locking system otherwise it will disappear soon
.
The jack is a "screw type" that you hook onto the a-frame in the front and under the axle in the back. They are pretty decent if you give it a shot of lube every now and again. If it gets stiff, sometimes the thing falls over when trying to get it into position... Makes you say bad words because the handle is about 4ish feet long. Still, the factory jacks are generally reliable.
 

PHOENIX-GER

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.
The jack is a "screw type" that you hook onto the a-frame in the front and under the axle in the back. They are pretty decent if you give it a shot of lube every now and again. If it gets stiff, sometimes the thing falls over when trying to get it into position... Makes you say bad words because the handle is about 4ish feet long. Still, the factory jacks are generally reliable.
sounds good.Twice now in over 40 years I have had to change a tire on my own vehicle on the road... far more often I have helped other drivers. Therefore, I have also experienced various original jacks that were simply useless to put it nicely.
 

PHOENIX-GER

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I have edited the title since the error processing is long history
In the meantime, we are in the process of rebuilding. How much was actually defective or worn could not be seen from the outside at all. 10 years of Army service, then 8 years of daily driver and 15 years of storage took tribut on a 35 year old vehicle.

All - really all - wear parts will be replaced. I have little desire to have to do it again in a year, because then an old part has gone.
In the end, of course, it costs a lot of money and time, but then the car looks like new.
I am surprised how many parts you can actually get new for such an old truck.

I report further on the progress for all interested people
 

PHOENIX-GER

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I have already ordered new seals but i wanted to know if i can save them of garbage as the Professional painter had not covered them before painting aua how stupid can someone be in that case specially of his profession.

Front Before cleaning, behind after cleaning - the condition of the seals are still useful, but i wanted new ones

IMG-20220105-WA0003 (2).jpg

available here

https://www.classicparts.com/1981-87-Front-Fender-to-Cab-Seal-Left/productinfo/37-619/

https://www.classicparts.com/1981-87-Front-Fender-to-Cab-Seal-Right/productinfo/37-620/

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IMG-20220105-WA0000.jpg

IMG-20220112-WA0002.jpg

available here

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/14043793.html

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/14043794.html
 

ssdvc

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I have already ordered new seals but i wanted to know if i can save them of garbage as the Professional painter had not covered them before painting aua how stupid can someone be in that case specially of his profession.

Front Before cleaning, behind after cleaning - the condition of the seals are still useful, but i wanted new ones

View attachment 855725

available here

https://www.classicparts.com/1981-87-Front-Fender-to-Cab-Seal-Left/productinfo/37-619/

https://www.classicparts.com/1981-87-Front-Fender-to-Cab-Seal-Right/productinfo/37-620/

View attachment 855726

View attachment 855727

View attachment 855728

available here

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/14043793.html

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/14043794.html
Where do those "Front Fender to Cab" seals go?
 

DIVE DIVE

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It looks like I will have to make this myself or I will take something from the aftermarket which I will customize

GM 14034501
Support Assembly, Exhaust Pipe
1985-1991 GM

GM 14034501 Support Assembly, Exhaust Pipe

  • Part Description
    SUPPORT, Exhaust Pipe
  • Manufacturer
    General Motors
  • Manufacturer's Notes
    This part is discontinued. It is no longer available for purchase.
GM 14022538
Support Assembly, Exhaust Pipe
1985-1991 GM

  • Part Description
    SUPPORT, Exhaust Pipe
  • Manufacturer
    General Motors
  • Manufacturer's Notes
    This part is discontinued. It is no longer available for purchase.
GM 14022537
Support Assembly, Muffler & Tail Pipe Front
1985-1991 GM

GM 14022537 Support Assembly, Muffler & Tail Pipe Front

  • Part Description
    SUPPORT, Exhaust Muffler/Resonator
  • Position
    Front
  • Manufacturer
    General Motors
  • Manufacturer's Notes
    This part is discontinued. It is no longer available for purchase.
GM 14034504
Support Assembly, Muffler & Tail Pipe, Right
1985-1991 GM

GM 14034504 Support Assembly, Muffler & Tail Pipe, Right

  • Part Description
    SUPPORT, Exhaust Muffler/Resonator
  • Position
    Passenger Side
  • Manufacturer
    General Motors
  • Manufacturer's Notes
    This part is discontinued. It is no longer available for purchase.
GM 14034503
Support Assembly, Muffler & Tail Pipe, Left
1985-1991 GM

GM 14034503 Support Assembly, Muffler & Tail Pipe, Left

  • Part Description
    SUPPORT, Exhaust Muffler/Resonator
  • Position
    Driver Side
  • Manufacturer
    General Motors
  • Manufacturer's Notes
    This part is discontinued. It is no longer available for purchase.
I used a grinder and pin punch to remove all of the exhaust hangers from the frame. Then I drilled out the spot welds on the hangers that pinch the rubber so that I can adequately prepare and preserve all of the pieces. I’ll paint the majority of the remaining pieces just prior to re-welding and then paint the small welded remainder last. Finally, bolt the hanger back back together where it was previously spot welded. I’ve already painted and bolted the large hanger portion back on at this point, but the other portions described are not complete yet. That’s my plan.
 

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PHOENIX-GER

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I used a grinder and pin punch to remove all of the exhaust hangers from the frame. Then I drilled out the spot welds on the hangers that pinch the rubber so that I can adequately prepare and preserve all of the pieces. I’ll paint the majority of the remaining pieces just prior to re-welding and then paint the small welded remainder last. Finally, bolt the hanger back back together where it was previously spot welded. I’ve already painted and bolted the large hanger portion back on at this point, but the other portions described are not complete yet. That’s my plan.
Fortunately we have been able to sandblast all parts to have the best possible preparation. The frame is already primed with epoxy primer. All parts of the frame and the underbody will receive an 2K epoxy primer, the 2K Adhesion Primer and the 2K CARC Paint. Additional where necessary Cavity sealing (the most at the cab), Stone chip (Wheel housings) and underbody protection.
And yes, for the best possible result with the exhaust hangers, they must be disassembled. Otherwise, you won't reach the depth. Thanks for you detailed explanation that also other could follow this procedure.
We intentionally didn't disassemble the frame to preserve frame symmetry. We left what was riveted in place because we can get to all the parts that way. Of course, not convenient, but possible.

For the exhaust hangers, sanding was an experiment. In appearance, I expected everything to come out of the process destroyed, but I was wrong. I don't have to worry about rebuilding them, I just need to protect them from rust again and paint them. Fortunately, as a metalworker, I am able to remanufacture parts. Many machines I own myself or have access to them.
 
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