Recovery problems.

[TexAndy]

so what are you looking at to fix it exactly? do you think it's simply gummed up, are you going to have to take something apart and twist on it or are you thinking part replacement?

Look at the picture on the link keith posted. Er, that link doesn't work but do a search for clogged fuel system and you'll find that thread. The picture is on the last post of the first page.

To me, it seems like I'm going to have to take that cover off of the IP plunger before I know if it's gunked, rusted, or damaged.

 

[Keith_J]

so what are you looking at to fix it exactly? do you think it's simply gummed up, are you going to have to take something apart and twist on it or are you thinking part replacement?

When the engine stop solenoid is pulled, there is a bracket for the control rod/control collar mechanism, secured with two hex head screws (small bolts) that are safety wired together. Cut the wire, remove the two screws and then swab it down with....Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV. It really cuts diesel gum, better than ANYTHING I have tried. Even better than cyclohexanone .

Get me an 8 ounce bottle of it using your special license , It also works GREAT for cleaning firearms, who would have thunk it?

I will pull the fender to get good access but I will not pull the IP. I probably can leave the governor on too (at the end) and just pull the (bypassed) fuel density compensator. If you want, I can reconnect the FDC but if you are only going to run #2 diesel, it is not needed...that much. I do believe bypassing the FDC removes the temperature compensation which HELPS performance in hot weather. Fuel expands when heated, reducing density. Energy is proportional to density, when diesel gets hot, more volume is needed for the same power.

The engine did get to operating temperature and the pressure cap appeared to leak/bubble. But when I sniffed the bubbles, no combustion products were noted. Coolant was a bit blue in color so someone MIGHT have put windshield solvent in it, we can test boiling point to determine and change the coolant if needed.

 

[TexRdnec]

the blue was premixed coolant andy took along. it was 2 gallons low.

more fun though. he just called and said they couldn't get the truck to roll without dropping the driveshaft

 

[Keith_J]

the blue was premixed coolant andy took along. it was 2 gallons low.

more fun though. he just called and said they couldn't get the truck to roll without dropping the driveshaft

Probably frozen parking brake. Easy fix. One thing at a time, I work miracles. Did you ever see these pictures? After a new head, new piston/rod, new rings (honed cylinders) and new injector nozzles, it has run without fault. 18,000 miles. Zero oil consumption.

 

[velociT]

I can attest to the fact that Keith can indeed work miracles.

 

[TexAndy]

Yep, we got the deuce loaded without too much difficulty.

The rear axles acted like the parking brake was on, tho. So we unbolted the drive shaft (piece of cake) on one end and secured it with rope for transport, rod pushed the deuce into position, and the guys with the trailer winched it up onto the trailer.

Later, we looked at the parking brake drum and it looked pretty shiny, like maybe it had been stuck in the engaged position for awhile. Shouldn't be a difficult or expensive fix, I wouldn't think.

 

[TexRdnec]

yep, looks to be that the parking brake was stuck.

here's the oil pan. hope to hell it isn't covering the pickup:

http://i33.tinypic.com/2aaj7yh.jpg

 

[mahdey]

looks like you have two crushed fuel lines.

 

[Keith_J]

yep, looks to be that the parking brake was stuck.

here's the oil pan. hope to hell it isn't covering the pickup:

http://i33.tinypic.com/2aaj7yh.jpg

The oil pickup is behind the dented area. We can knock that out with a few tools and a torch. Got propane? How about a pear burner? Or a crawfish cooker?

To make it look good, planishing with an autobody hammer over lead shot bag on top of a post will have it looking new. It might stretch out a bit, that will only slightly increase capacity.

Doing it hot at first will prevent tearing and help remove creases. This is old school stamped steel, it works like butter. Not like those new high tensile car bodies.


Get some of that paint, a single rattle can of color and a can of primer will be plenty. And get a glean 5 gallon bucket to save the oil, it looks great.

I'll be down Sunday to begin the repairs.

 

[TexAndy]

keith just left... and he got her running in the latter couple of hours of yesterday afternoon.

The control arm or whatever it's called for the throttle was stuck. The diesel in there had turned to varnish making it impossible for the throttle to close by way of that arm.

I believe the overhaul date on the engine was some time in 92 or 94. And the fuel in the tank smells really really stale. I'll bet that puppy was overhauled, topped off, and never run since.

He fixed the parking brake issue, too, somehow. I forget the details, but I think the cable was just tensioned way too tight.

Keith has pictures on his phone so I'll let him post those and get into the real nitty gritty for ya'lls edification, as soon as he gets back to san antonio.

Keith shall henceforth be known as "The Deuce Whisperer"

 

[TexRdnec]

yep, keith is the man. that deuce didn't stand a chance and it knew it.

it's leaking oil like a SOB from the oil pan and IP but i'm gonna silicone up the IP this afternoon and i've got a line on a new pan so we're certainly headed in the right direction now that The Deuce Whisperer pointed us that way....

 

[Keith_J]

Yeah, that gasket on the shut-off is WEAK. It looks like window screen coated in rubber but I think it is lead wire mesh. Why Bosch used that kind of gasket is beyond me.

For the record, the miracle worker is Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV, found at better gunshops, sporting goods retailers and the like. It cuts through the crud faster than anything, including acetone/MEK/gasoline. It rinses clean with water, doesn't stink and dissolves a lot more than copper. I use it on my air rifle since it also "diesels" to an extent, building carbon in the bore and rifling. This stuff just plain works on all diesel varnish deposits.

I just wish I could have done it at DRMO.