Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

[Adrian A]

I ha e the entire pump apart. Is the main shaft timed with the vertical shaft that operates the hh? There is three positions that the crank can be in, but i see no marks to line it all up.
Adrian

 

[Joeinderry]

Great fix!

 

[Another Ahab]

Congrats on fixing the "dreaded HH!" Courage isn't the lack of fear, it is goin forward through it! Positive thinking! and leading by example!! Negative thinkin gets ya no where! First Team, Sir!
God bless,
Tony

Ol' "Blood and Guts", George S. Patton, said "Courage is just fear holding on a minute longer". I don't think he was referring to motor pool work, but you get the idea...

But you did take a leap of faith in proceeding with the fix here. You were bold. Kudos to you! ~

 

[Another Ahab]

The best place I have found for O rings is a place called oringsandmore.com It's also the only palce I was able to find replacement axle vents. And I will have a shipment of HH's going out to all of our group buy members soon. It was such a success I may be convinced to do it again.

Erik's has them (breather vents), about $6 per.

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

subscribed

 

[Bigg Sexxy]

I know I'm reviving an old thread here,but what do I do when the gear is turning and I can't find a red mark or a scored tooth? Grrrrrrr

 

[Zoey]

I used this awesome guide today to fix my HH. The button had come off. I was able to find the red/slotted gear tooth by using a bore scope camera pointed at the gear, and then momentarily pressing the starter. It took about 15 tries to get it to the right place. I found it three times in kind of the wrong place, and then I had it pretty much right. The "scored/red" gear tooth actually has a slot or groove that goes vertically None of the other teeth have the groove in the end of the tooth. I guess I could make a little ascii art... I guess this is what it would look like from above or below.

/ \ Regular tooth.
/-\ Slotted tooth.

Next, from the side looking in the fuel cutoff window each tooth looks normal except the slotted one which has a groove down the middle. The xx in this diagram is the space in between each gear tooth.

| |xx| |xx||||xx| |xx| |
............^---------------------Slotted gear tooth.
.^----^----------^----^---------Regular gear teeth.

The red paint/indicator seems to be painted into the slot.

It seems like to get it apart, you must line it up, and then remove the head (the fuel cut off lever must come out for the HH to come off.) I'm not sure how you time it if you're putting it together for the first time, but I did see a you tube video about a complete pump rebuild where the guy went over every detail about putting a pump back in. Also when you're putting the head back on, you have to push down on the head and slightly compress the spring to get the fuel cut off lever to go back in. The fuel cut off actuator has a little square pin that slots into a groove. Oh also, there *is* a groove that the little clip for the fuel cutoff lever goes into. You kind of have to hold the arm thingy out, and snap the retaining ring in. Its definitely one of those 'I *really* hope I'm not going to drop this clip' situations.

-Zoey

 

[Floridianson]

I was able to find the red/slotted gear tooth by using a bore scope camera pointed at the gear, and then momentarily pressing the starter. It took about 15 tries to get it to the right place.

I think it would have been soooo much easer if you just asked a friend to help you. Put the transmission in 5th transfer case in netrual and put a bar in the jack shaft. By turning the jackshaft the motor turnes over so easy and slow to help line up the head scrib.
Also the font is just a little hard to read. I wish the mods would require the font be standard one color (white) and font.

 

[Another Ahab]

[
I think it would have been soooo much easer if you just asked a friend to help you. Put the transmission in 5th transfer case in netrual and put a bar in the jack shaft. By turning the jackshaft the motor turnes over so easy and slow to help line up the head scrib.
Also the font is just a little hard to read. I wish the mods would require the font be standard one color (white) and font.

Photos are always the best, but the "font" demonstration was very creative (even if a little unclear: A+ for the inventive effort).

And amen to Floridanson for reducing it to the simple two-person job it can be (of course though that depends on having yourself a buddy when you need them).

 

[Zoey]

That is definitely good to know about the jack shaft technique. I was not familiar with it. I assume the jack shaft is the connector between the transmission output and the transfer case? The idea is to put it into 5th for the "best" gear ratio for turning the motor, and have the transfer case in neutral so only the motor spins? If I need to perform this again, I'll definitely try this. I think it will be much easier.

-Zoey

 

[roux563]

Special Thanks to Kennys@wi.rr.com! I followed his directions and got my frozen HH working. Excellent post.

For future readers.... Once can assume the flat double eared washer (shear washer) will be broken if the HH is locked up or does not work freely.

I also want to thank gimmpyrob and Floridianson for their help, advice and parts.

This is what I like this group so much!

 

[orren]

After a process of elimination it looks like my HH is not getting up to pressure at slow RPM's to open injectors such as when
starting up engine. I do have a way to start the engine but if RPM goes much below 1,000 she shuts down.

If I had to guess the fuel is getting past the plunger until RPM is enough to hold pressure. Truck runs good at the higher RPM's.

Really would like to hear from someone who may know what is causing this and knows how to fix it.

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

My opinion is to first test your fuel pressure from the in tank pump and then after the initial pump within the IP. Also check your fuel filters and you oil. If your oil level has gone up you may have bad o rings in the HH. If you have a fuel delivery issue you could also experience similar type issues. I have not heard of an HH losing pressure though, not to say it couldn't happen just never heard of it. If you determine it's fuel filters consider switching to spin on filters. If you decide to go that route let me know as I make kits to replace everything from the tank to the IP. Good luck.

 

[frank8003]

Ambac link posted is broke but this is the same part
http://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/ambac-m-50-24a-80a-9540a-part-gu8546-plunger-guide/

	FSG	FSC	National Stock Number	CAGE	Part Number	Name
	29	2910	2910-01-192-5957 Alternate References: 2910011925957, 011925957	01843		GU8546	GUIDE,PLUNGER,FUEL PUMP

but even that by greenmountains sold out on ebay

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

That is some great info to have Frank.

 

[Floridianson]

[QUOTE=orren
I do have a way to start the engine.

What are you doing to start the motor. Holding the fuel peddle down? The Deuce system uses a spill port system. If the spill port is allowed to stay closed longer per stroke of the plunger the rpm should increase. If the spill port is allowed to spill most of the charge the rpm should decrease or a open spill port the motor will shut down. You could try and increase the main fuel alittle to keep the spill port closed a little more than it is now so as to idle and not want to shut down.

 

[bigfrigger]

Can I remove the hydraulic head with out removing the IP ?

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes.

 

[Floridianson]

Can I remove the hydraulic head with out removing the IP ?

As long as you understand competely what you are doing before you do it. More threads start with I took of my HH and now it won't start or run.

 

[bigfrigger]

I am leaking fuel into my oil pan and have done all the step to diagnose it and it appears to be the HH. Do I just replace the O rings in there ?