• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and all pertaining to

Dasgog

Active member
177
148
43
Location
Tucson, AZ
Hello!

So I have never replaced anything on rear wheels including tires themselves.
I have watched Tac Repair videos and yet I find myself without confidence to do so.
I’ve read the manuals and I see the words and see the diagrams but still I have questions.
Maybe having some personal discussion will build the courage in me.
As I mentioned I’ve never done, and I am not exactly a mechanic person so a lot of the ‘obvious” things I may simply not even consider.
Any recommendations, concerns or ideas about what I should do?
From B Mikes I have both the bearings and the “seal”. I have a tub of grease and the tools I need.
Any help I would appreciate. 1972 M35A2
 

HDN

Well-known member
1,966
4,732
113
Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
Hello!

So I have never replaced anything on rear wheels including tires themselves.
I have watched Tac Repair videos and yet I find myself without confidence to do so.
I’ve read the manuals and I see the words and see the diagrams but still I have questions.
Maybe having some personal discussion will build the courage in me.
As I mentioned I’ve never done, and I am not exactly a mechanic person so a lot of the ‘obvious” things I may simply not even consider.
Any recommendations, concerns or ideas about what I should do?
From B Mikes I have both the bearings and the “seal”. I have a tub of grease and the tools I need.
Any help I would appreciate. 1972 M35A2
I've never done it either, but I'll have to pull the bearings this spring on the rear axles to replace leaking seals. I'm not quite prepared to do it yet because I still need to order the parts and gear oil to replace any lost when pulling the hub caps and shafts. I find that it helps a lot to already have the tools you'll need to do the job, plus maybe a wheel's worth of spare replacement parts in case you screw something up.

I think that Tactical Repair video was great as it gave me a good idea what to expect when doing the job. I don't think it's that terrible compared to replacing tires, which I've done six super singles last year (that was a workout!). I'm looking forward to giving this job a try! I just hope I don't find any trashed bearings in the process 🤞

I don't know what you do outside of this hobby, but if it's a desk job like what I have, I enjoy talking about working on the big truck when mechanical stuff (especially car stuff) comes up. I was telling my new manager the other day about how I don't just crunch numbers to engineer stuff, but I turn wrenches - sometimes BIG ones! :LOL: Not many of my colleagues at the office have a 4-foot 3/4" drive torque meter sitting in their shop, or anything with the word "torque" in it for that matter! It's even better when I can take what I learn from my wrenching experience and apply it to what I'm doing on paper, or what people are talking about in meetings, many of whom never having done anything mechanical in their life!

That helps motivate me to do this stuff and get around being daunted by it!
 
Last edited:

tommys2patrick

Active member
671
199
43
Location
Livermore, Colorado
this is a great time for you. most people rarely venture beyond what they have already known or done. Just take a picture before teardown, during and after. almost all of the parts will be very heavy so plan, prepare and leave time to walk away if you get frustrated. its going to be messy, exhausting and confusing. with a lot of curiosity, a fair amount of tenacity, in the end, you will stand there staring at your work like a moron and be overwhelmed with pride and satisfaction. taking pictures will help if you run into trouble and need to post up a question on SS. we all want you to succeed and learn.
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,583
3,455
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
This begs the question, why are you doing this in the first place? Have you any indication this is necessary?

These bearings are known for extreme longevity in service. The occasional cleaning and greasing is all they need, usually done with a brake job.

DG
 

ldmack3

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
849
1,739
93
Location
N. Central Idaho
I had never done it either but being a former aircraft mechanic, I had some knowledge. But trust me when I say this is entirely different. Just wait until others chime in about all the stupid questions I have asked!

I had never welded sheet metal or painted a vehicle or so many other things. I found that watching the Tac Repair videos on seal change, dust boot change, etc. over and over gave me the confidence to do many things and avoid many mistakes. Taking lots of pictures before, during and after helped a lot. When I had doubts, I'd go back and watch the videos again or ask questions.

Just read and watch then dive in. Many here can help you out if you get stuck.
Some members here have been doing this decades. Me? Only 2 years on FMVs.

P.S. If you plan on doing this a lot, buy a torque amplifier!
 

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,283
836
113
Location
Fargo ND
Hey guys pulling the hubs and inspecting the bearing on a Deuce is not a big deal at all, no need to worry about doing it. Two things I would do is watch a video on it on Utube then I would download the TMs for doing this and read through those to make sure you have all the tools, seals bearings (IF NEEDED) and any other as sundry items to complete the job, reason for this is so that you know what to expect as you proceed along on this task and the TMs will spell out virtually every step and there will be diagrams that you can compare with what is in front of you as you are working. Its somewhat heavy work but nothing is complicated or even difficult. The only reason that you would need a bearing/race replacement is it it has been sitting for a very long time not moving or if it was underwater and never taken apart and re-greased . Its a straight forward piece of labor and the best part is you know exactly what you have when you done!!!
When the bearing come out clean them out with air and parts cleaner till they are clean then inspect the rollers and races looking for rough spots or pits if they look good repack the bearing and reassemble! All your torque specs are in the TMs.
 

VBsurfer

Active member
39
141
33
Location
Heathsville, Virginia
Just got my deuce and looking into this as one of the things I need to take a look at as well. Like to make sure I uncover everything so I at least know it's done by someone recently and I don't have to worry about it and of course love to learn how to do things and maybe I can help someone else once I get a crack at this task.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,866
22,086
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
I am going to back Karl up here. This is not rocket science. The TM is set up for people who have little experience doing these tasks. Watch the video. Then, pick a day where you have ALL day to do this. Clean up around your work site. Putting new anything in, dirty, is not good. Get lots of GAA, (wheel bearing grease) and LOTS of rags ready. I always lay out a nice white towel, to lay my removed and CLEAN parts on, in the sequence that they came out. I always read the repair instructions one more time the night before and lay out the tools needed for the job. Put on some Jams you like, and do it.

Take your time. Think about what you just did to remove something and take pictures if you need to. Bearings are really a simple job, so after doing one set, you will feel good about what you are doing. Maybe print an exploded picture of how it all looks in the -24P, and keep it on hand. In fact, if you feel like you need it, print off the procedure from the TM, and put it in plastic document protectors, and keep it near. The only part I would tell you is SUPER important is packing the bearings. Have not seen the video, so do not know what they show about that. If you do not have a device that will pack the bearings on hand, you have to pack them by hand. Work the grease in, GOOD. And maybe twice. The bearings are your friend. Be nice to them. Torquing the bearings is the next SUPER important thing. Make sure you understand what you are doing, and what you should be doing. Check everything twice. You can do this.
 

topo

Active member
897
219
43
Location
farmington NM
If packing the bearing by hand force the grease in the big side till it comes out the little side so it flows in between the rollers and comes out . You can cover the race and out side of the bearing with a thin coat of grease but the only grease that counts is the grease in the bearing between the rollers .

When doing wheel bearing I also check brake parts and take the wheel cylinder a part run a hone through it and clean the rubber parts in hot soapy water .
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,357
19,054
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I am going to back Karl up here. This is not rocket science. The TM is set up for people who have little experience doing these tasks. Watch the video. Then, pick a day where you have ALL day to do this. Clean up around your work site. Putting new anything in, dirty, is not good. Get lots of GAA, (wheel bearing grease) and LOTS of rags ready. I always lay out a nice white towel, to lay my removed and CLEAN parts on, in the sequence that they came out. I always read the repair instructions one more time the night before and lay out the tools needed for the job. Put on some Jams you like, and do it.

Take your time. Think about what you just did to remove something and take pictures if you need to. Bearings are really a simple job, so after doing one set, you will feel good about what you are doing. Maybe print an exploded picture of how it all looks in the -24P, and keep it on hand. In fact, if you feel like you need it, print off the procedure from the TM, and put it in plastic document protectors, and keep it near. The only part I would tell you is SUPER important is packing the bearings. Have not seen the video, so do not know what they show about that. If you do not have a device that will pack the bearings on hand, you have to pack them by hand. Work the grease in, GOOD. And maybe twice. The bearings are your friend. Be nice to them. Torquing the bearings is the next SUPER important thing. Make sure you understand what you are doing, and what you should be doing. Check everything twice. You can do this.
.
Well stated Guy!
Pictures and TM Diagrams are definitely your friend if you haven't done the job before. Even if you have, a few minutes leafing through the books will refresh what we know...
 

Dasgog

Active member
177
148
43
Location
Tucson, AZ
Hello!

So I have never replaced anything on rear wheels including tires themselves.
I have watched Tac Repair videos and yet I find myself without confidence to do so.
I’ve read the manuals and I see the words and see the diagrams but still I have questions.
Maybe having some personal discussion will build the courage in me.
As I mentioned I’ve never done, and I am not exactly a mechanic person so a lot of the ‘obvious” things I may simply not even consider.
Any recommendations, concerns or ideas about what I should do?
From B Mikes I have both the bearings and the “seal”. I have a tub of grease and the tools I need.
Any help I would appreciate. 1972 M35A2
Hello!
So after watching videos and manuals and getting my mindset to do it, today I set out to do it! And… Something is off.
Now I didn’t know to mention this cause I didn’t realize but it is bobbed. So when I took off back tire I see this, and this isn’t in the video or manual that I saw!
Is this a different approach and items needed being this is different rear end?
Also when I took the hub off gear oil just came gushing out.

FEE2586C-DF25-45D5-9912-1C31F78A6672.jpegF74CAAD4-1100-4D22-97D4-E61949E06218.jpeg4CEC2CA7-FA25-408E-B20F-3F1C02EF0BC9.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: HDN

HDN

Well-known member
1,966
4,732
113
Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
The hubs on the rear axle are flipped to run singles that can track on the same line as the front wheels. My truck was actually set up like that from the factory being an M35A3, and the M34 trucks were also built like that. The hub and drum should pull off just like the non-flipped setup the fellow in the Tactical Repair video was using.

I'm not sure about the oil gushing out of the axle. I know it's a good idea to have an oil pan or plastic tub at the axle in case that happens, but I'm not sure what's normal for a properly filled differential.
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,583
3,455
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
Nothing wrong there. Usually called 'flipped' hubs, done so singles track better with the fronts.

Unscrew the retainer nuts, after prying up the keeper flange.

They shouldn't be too tight.

Keep a clean towel of pan under when pulling the hub off, as the outer bearing will make a break for the mud/sand.

The inner bearing is held in place by a seal, that being held in place by a large snapring.

You'll have to pound out the seal and bearing with a brass rod.

Clean everything up and inspect.

In many years of flogging tacticals, I've never seen a wheel bearing worn out. Rusted to bits, yes.

Good long-fiber grease is the best thing to use, stay away from disc brake (black) grease.

DG
 

Dasgog

Active member
177
148
43
Location
Tucson, AZ
Nothing wrong there. Usually called 'flipped' hubs, done so singles track better with the fronts.

Unscrew the retainer nuts, after prying up the keeper flange.

They shouldn't be too tight.

Keep a clean towel of pan under when pulling the hub off, as the outer bearing will make a break for the mud/sand.

The inner bearing is held in place by a seal, that being held in place by a large snapring.

You'll have to pound out the seal and bearing with a brass rod.

Clean everything up and inspect.

In many years of flogging tacticals, I've never seen a wheel bearing worn out. Rusted to bits, yes.

Good long-fiber grease is the best thing to use, stay away from disc brake (black) grease.

DG
cool thank you both. I recall the guy I bought it from
Said something about bed being an M10 something but I don’t recall. I see there is an assortment of those was looking at manuals etc.
But it seems pretty straight forward from what you both mention.
Thank you
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks