Request M35A2 Retrieval info

[Another Ahab]

Dunno, ain't been that deep. Doubt it. Bet rusty knows.
If I had to guess, that rod is moved by the governor weights/throttle. It moves when throttle is moved with engine running.

Right? Flip the assembly 180* and the "5:00" would become "7:00". Or it seems like it would.

Bet he does.

Is he on here?

 

[frank8003]

They been "starting" engine with ether since June.
No TM's, no idea what is in the fuel tank, does lift pump pump?
Is there actually filters in it and if so are they plugged.

Many things have been "messed with" by now.

Just watching from here, it seems one would require understanding
of the TM's and a study of how the fuel system works.
Here is a fuel system picture
View attachment fuel system best picture.pdf

 

[rustystud]

First thought to mind about the "5:00" position vs "7:00" position is reversing:

- does the set-up allow for the possibility of reversing the installation of the mechanism at all?

Does that make any sense?

No. When the lever is installed into the fuel control shaft it is at a 90 degrees angle. So even if you "flipped it" it would still be 90 degrees.
Sorry I wasn't on here earlier. I usually only get the chance to get online after 11:00 pm.

 

[rustystud]

Dunno, ain't been that deep. Doubt it. Bet rusty knows.

That's just a random vid I grabbed to show what I was talking about (fuel shutoff).

If I had to guess, that rod is moved by the governor weights/throttle. It moves when throttle is moved with engine running.

Your correct about the governor moving that lever. There is no physical connection from the outside throttle control to the fuel control lever. The fuel pedal (throttle) puts pressure against the governor which then decides how much fuel is allowed to flow.
That's why at 2800 rpm, you can push the throttle all you want but you will not get anymore fuel.

 

[frank8003]

I am aboutt to go and inspect a (what im told) m35a2 thats been sitting for 10 years and they are wishing to start it up and take it home by some means. My knowledge on repairing these vehicles is close to none and I haven't worked on a m35 thats been sitting that long nor do i know what parts would be needing replacement from sitting that long.
The truck is a 2 hour drive away sitting in a field weathering away and i need to know what all parts I might need to get her JUST to start. That would make me more than happy to hear her yell once more. I would love to know ANY tips or tricks to getting a old 68 up and running again.
If you have a link to a parts list or a check list to get a truck running would make more appreciated than i could say.

Well, does it run?
If these guys can't make it run then nobody can.
What did Gimpy tell you in PM in June?
Did you drive it home yet?

 

[Another Ahab]

Well, does it run?
If these guys can't make it run then nobody can.
What did Gimpy tell you in PM in June?
Did you drive it home yet?

Good questions there, every one of them.

 

[Derpy]

i runs well but i must get it to start on a eather mix from the intake, but will stall out imedately when you stop feeding it. the fuel is pumping in the injection lines but i havn't checked the injectors themselves to see if they are accepting the fuel. something is keeping the feul or the correct amount of full to the engine. i have serviced the hydraulic head and have blown out all the lines. i have even replaced all filters with correct seals, from rob.

 

[rustystud]

i runs well but i must get it to start on a eather mix from the intake, but will stall out imedately when you stop feeding it. the fuel is pumping in the injection lines but i havn't checked the injectors themselves to see if they are accepting the fuel. something is keeping the feul or the correct amount of full to the engine. i have serviced the hydraulic head and have blown out all the lines. i have even replaced all filters with correct seals, from rob.

Have you taken off the fuel line to the injection pump itself ? Try that and see how much fuel your getting there. Your not getting the fuel you need. If you have replaced all the filters (including the one on the passenger side) and your in-tank pump is working, then your boost pump might be bad. So, take off the line at the injection pump and physically see how much fuel is coming out. It should be a substantial amount and will be able to fill a quart jar in 20 seconds or less.

 

[Derpy]

are you talking about the fuel pump underneath the Hydraulic head or the fuel pump in the tank?

 

[Derpy]

wheres the best place to get a flame heater for the m35? im not finding it in napa.

 

[rustystud]

are you talking about the fuel pump underneath the Hydraulic head or the fuel pump in the tank?

The booster pump on the injection pump itself. Just remove the fuel line that goes to the "Fuel Density Compensator" . It might have been bypassed so that the line off from the "T" fitting.

 

[rustystud]

wheres the best place to get a flame heater for the m35? im not finding it in napa.

Why would you want one ? They are not the most dependable of items. To operate properly they must be maintained on a regular basis, and even then they have a habit of leaking. The only place that would have one is a military "surplus" store. If you really want one try "White Owl" military parts.

 

[Derpy]

well its about to be winter here and the flame heater wont work, is there anything you would recomend that you would replace the flame heater with?

 

[gimpyrobb]

My deuce has started on its own in 0* or less. Its not really needed down your way. I plug all mine off. I'll see if I have any parts next time I get up to the barn.

 

[rustystud]

My deuce has started on its own in 0* or less. Its not really needed down your way. I plug all mine off. I'll see if I have any parts next time I get up to the barn.

Just like Gimpyrobb said, it is not needed in your state. In fact it really isn't needed in any of the lower 48 states. It was installed for Artic conditions. Yes some states along the Canadian border can get pretty cold but the deuce should still start. The later models had the "ether" injection for hard starting, though I never needed mine so I removed it years ago. Remember the deuce was equipped to be able to operate in all weather conditions around the world. Just a little "aside" , Alabama is not the Russian Steppes.

 

[cattlerepairman]

well its about to be winter here and the flame heater wont work, is there anything you would recomend that you would replace the flame heater with?

The military replaced the flame heater with an ether kit. You can actually use the flame heater switch to operate the ether injection solenoid. It provides a minimal, exactly metered dose of ether (as opposed to the huge amounts of "starting spray" humans would unload into the intake). If you cannot find an OEM ether kit to put in, KAT makes a 24V kit that some here have installed without issue. Part number appears to be 33102 but do your own due diligence.

 

[gimpyrobb]

The military replaced the flame heater with an ether kit. You can actually use the flame heater switch to operate the ether injection solenoid. It provides a minimal, exactly metered dose of ether (as opposed to the huge amounts of "starting spray" humans would unload into the intake). If you cannot find an OEM ether kit to put in, KAT makes a 24V kit that some here have installed without issue. Part number appears to be 33102 but do your own due diligence.

Yes but!
The ether kit is 100% ether where the starting fluid is only like 8 or 10%.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Careful with that. The MSD for my can of Prestone Starting Fluid says: 40-70% ethyl ether, 25-40% heptane (a hydrocarbon) and the balance is CO2. So, yes, it is not 100% ethyl ether, but a whopping amount is.
My point was just that the ether injection system delivers a metered dose that is deemed safer for the engine than a handheld spray.

The flame heater, when fully operational, works well. It has several failure-prone parts and does not age gracefully.

We have had sub-freezing temperatures here for the last few nights. I started my truck this morning (with brand new 1000CCA batteries, mind you) and she started after about 5 seconds of cranking. No flame heater or ether start needed.

I know that when it dips to -15 or -20 Celsius, she does not want to fire without ether, unless you do not care about excessive cranking.

 

[Derpy]

yeah im to the point where i cant think of anything else untill starting to remove injector heads. heres the video of it starting on its own and then jumping off on 90%diesel/ 10%gasoline. she starts up fine but then stalls out. https://www.youtube.com/upload

 

[porkysplace]

yeah im to the point where i cant think of anything else untill starting to remove injector heads. heres the video of it starting on its own and then jumping off on 90%diesel/ 10%gasoline. she starts up fine but then stalls out. https://www.youtube.com/upload

Your link is a upload and doesn't work here. You need to link it after it's uploaded.