"Rescued" M816 Wrecker

[Valence]

If you can show me a picture of the "pump" that needs replacing on the boom I can probably get you a replacement from some wreckers they are going to scrap in the next few weeks. This is an opportunity to get it cheap since they are scrapping, not parting out. PM me if interested.

I will see if I can manage that. The previous owner said it was right below the crane, kind of in a hard-to-get-to tunnel (something about taking the 6 bolts off below the crane and even taking the crane unit completely off?). I will go crawl around it tomorrow or do some un-bolting to see if I can find find it and take pictures.

 

[Csm Davis]

While you wait on winter to pass where ever you live I would start lubricating the whole truck, but especially the cables it takes time for the lubricant to soak all the way in and it is not that hard to do.
Also the pump not turning will probably need to be diagnosed with the motor running and the 936 pumps and shafts are different under the bed. It can and probably will be a shaft key or one of the constant velocity joints on the shaft going to the pump or the rubber pump drive joint that you have to lift the boom most of the way up to take the pump out to change. Might want to wait on crawling under just yet.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Don't drive it anywhere until you replace those hood latches. You will be looking for a hood if you do.

 

[NDT]

Looks like GL sold this in Event 5308 in July of 2010. (Writing on curb side front fender) Looks like a Camp Shelby truck to me. Good luck with it, they come a lot worse.

 

[Csm Davis]

Looks like GL sold this in Event 5308 in July of 2010. (Writing on curb side front fender) Looks like a Camp Shelby truck to me. Good luck with it, they come a lot worse.

Thought I remembered that truck.

 

[Csm Davis]

Your tanks don't look real bad, see which tank it is set on with the valve on the floor just inside the drivers door. Don't change it just look and whichever tank it is on use it for right now and just add fresh fuel to it. Don't mess with the fuel lines yet it ran so they are at least usable fix the primer pump might just need to be tightened or the o-ring replaced.

 

[wreckerman893]

The two best days of my M816 ownership was the day I got it and the day I sold it. It was a self-inflicted wound since I didn't preview it and bought it from Shelby (a known rebuild facility with a history of cannibalizing trucks). It's the only truck (out of over 200) I ever bought from GL that had a bad engine.
Yours looks much better and moves under it's own power so you are way ahead of the game. Changing an engine outside sucks.
With the wealth of knowledge you have available here you should be able to do most of the repairs yourself.
If you have to change any of the hydraulic hoses you are going to hate living. If memory serves me there is no rear access cover on the operators cab to make getting to them easy. I changed one on mine and lost my religion several times before that odious task was completed. They are also dammed expensive to replace. I think I priced replacing all of them at over 1300 bucks but I have since found a cheaper place to have them made.
Leaking cabs must be in the specifications of all military vehicles because I have never driven or owned one that didn't leak somewhere. Sometimes you just have to break out a tube of silicon and go to work.
You are going to have problems with the fuel system.....take it to the bank.....at some point in time it is going to suck air somewhere.....the usual suspect is the fuel switch valve beside the driver's seat.
I'm fortunate that a fellow member is allowing me to take care of his M936 because a wrecker is prob the most useful vehicles to have around when you need it.
Just make a list of what needs to be done and what the priority is. Start with the simple things and work your way up to the worse.
Keep us posted on the progress.

 

[goldneagle]

I just got off the phone with CSM Davis. I have to retract my statement about the parts from the M936 being parted out as replacement for your M816 wrecker. According to Jeff (he has 1st hand knowledge of both models of wreckers) the parts you may need from under your wrecker are not at all the same as what is on the M936 trucks. The designs are different under the bed. I just wanted to clarify that. Please contact Jeff for parts since he may have some available fo the m816.

 

[zebedee]

Valence. Welcome to the big bad world of wrecker restorers..

I think you are starting out ahead of the curve - I would much rather have your situation of civi neglect than civi butchery if your destination is a good example of a military 816. So many were bought and civilianised by amateur tow truck owners - looks like yours is pretty complete, just needs a little tlc and maintenance. BII parts will come your way in time, just keep an eye on the classifieds here and visit local tag sales - 'cause demob soldiers tend to walk out of the gate with all the little stuff that we are looking for and then they have clearouts etc.

I have one spare ground spade if you can muster shipping or organise the S/S underground railroad...

Maybe your first job needs to be a roof...... over the whole truck. Then you can be more comfortable and keep the enthusiasm going! I have owned mine for 4 years now, still don't use it on the road though I have been restoring parts here and there, but I did just finish the roof steel yesterday over the trusses I put up for my restoration.


As others have said - this site has a wealth of info/experience so search wisely and thoroughly.

Good luck and keep asking!

 

[Scar59]

Nice truck, welcome to the wrecker club. Lots of potential there. They are handier than a 2 peckered billygoat. As suggested, try to get it in out of the weather/covered. You will enjoy working on it and will not go backwards.
JC

 

[Csm Davis]

As to getting it out of the weather you might try just a rear cover they look cool and will protect lots of you crane work.

 

[Valence]

While you wait on winter to pass where ever you live I would start lubricating the whole truck, but especially the cables it takes time for the lubricant to soak all the way in and it is not that hard to do.
Also the pump not turning will probably need to be diagnosed with the motor running and the 936 pumps and shafts are different under the bed. It can and probably will be a shaft key or one of the constant velocity joints on the shaft going to the pump or the rubber pump drive joint that you have to lift the boom most of the way up to take the pump out to change. Might want to wait on crawling under just yet.

Thank you Csm Davis, that's excellent starting point advice. I've neglected lubricating even my deuce's winch cable but at least it has the luxury of in-door storage.

I have officially started my "TODO" list for the truck, parts I am certain I need (only scratching the surface for sure, but it'll all come with time), and what I need to research - such as the typically recommended cable lubricant for starters.The only winches I've ever owed are on my 2 MVs.

At the moment, with the temperatures, my #1 item actually is to test if the coolant freeze protection level is adequate for all winter. I think it'll just be wisest to treat almost everything as an unknown until it's been checked, serviced, or inspected. I'm sure that's always the case with almost anything we buy, but it's easier said than done.

Also, thank you for the advice on the diagnosing the pump system. I'll wait on it but you did describe very similar to what the previous owner and Boyce Equipment has told me (removing the boom most of the way to replace what is broken). I'll wait worrying on it until I can actually get power back there, in other words, a better running engine.

Don't drive it anywhere until you replace those hood latches. You will be looking for a hood if you do.

You are very right! Thanks Jeepsinker, there's at least an easy fix.

Looks like GL sold this in Event 5308 in July of 2010. (Writing on curb side front fender) Looks like a Camp Shelby truck to me. Good luck with it, they come a lot worse.

Posts like this is what make me laugh in amazement. You had the necessary info (and preexisting knowledge) to determine this from a casual picture I took. Love it. 10/10
I'm surprised how far the truck has migrated since.

Your tanks don't look real bad, see which tank it is set on with the valve on the floor just inside the drivers door. Don't change it just look and whichever tank it is on use it for right now and just add fresh fuel to it. Don't mess with the fuel lines yet it ran so they are at least usable fix the primer pump might just need to be tightened or the o-ring replaced.

Alrighty, adding this to my check'n do list. I didn't take a picture of the fuel tank selector, or take proper note of its position, but I do recall it was covered in mud. Will clean and inspect. I presume the tank with "red" in it is just off road diesel and the other was regular street diesel. I did already put in a little anti-gel in both tanks.

 

[Valence]

Valence. Welcome to the big bad world of wrecker restorers..

I think you are starting out ahead of the curve - I would much rather have your situation of civi neglect than civi butchery if your destination is a good example of a military 816. So many were bought and civilianised by amateur tow truck owners - looks like yours is pretty complete, just needs a little tlc and maintenance. BII parts will come your way in time, just keep an eye on the classifieds here and visit local tag sales - 'cause demob soldiers tend to walk out of the gate with all the little stuff that we are looking for and then they have clearouts etc.

I have one spare ground spade if you can muster shipping or organise the S/S underground railroad...

Maybe your first job needs to be a roof...... over the whole truck. Then you can be more comfortable and keep the enthusiasm going! I have owned mine for 4 years now, still don't use it on the road though I have been restoring parts here and there, but I did just finish the roof steel yesterday over the trusses I put up for my restoration.


As others have said - this site has a wealth of info/experience so search wisely and thoroughly.

Good luck and keep asking!

Nice truck, welcome to the wrecker club. Lots of potential there. They are handier than a 2 peckered billygoat. As suggested, try to get it in out of the weather/covered. You will enjoy working on it and will not go backwards.
JC

As to getting it out of the weather you might try just a rear cover they look cool and will protect lots of you crane work.

I'm thinking a rear cover will be the best solution for now. If I had it my way the whole driveway would just be a garage/shop! But instead of buying more buildings, I've bought old OD iron. haha

Weeeellll, the garage pictured in the back ground does have a 10' door, which would clear the top bolts on the boom by a few inches. The Operators TM specifies the height as 112", but it was closer than that via my tape measure measurement while standing in back. However, the TM says the truck is 356" long (29.667'), and that garage is 30'x30' on the exterior. So the door may close if I pull straight in and gently touch the rear 2x4's with the bumper... My other trucks unfortunately already have claim to the garage anyway and I can't "cheat" on them any more than I already have.

Unfortunately the door is only 16' wide. So in the summer the two on the sides get it ('77 Plymouth Trailduster, and the ol' deuce). In the winter I shimmy them over and move the center work bench to make room for my '01 Dakota. Who wants to scrape windows and piles of snow off their daily driver? Not this guy.

 

[Capt Pat]

Like everybody else on here says, "welcome to the world of wreckers, " and you will find the post about the best and best days being the day you bought it and the day you sold it is right too. I miss my M-62, but.... I don't miss the "issues". Yours at least has most of the right material still hanging on it. Mine was the victim of what another post on here mentioned, a 'civi' wrecker operator...... And the stuff to replace it on that age vehicle isn't easy nor cheap. But you'll like it even when it comes with alot of "OUCH"..... (better word than most of the others I used that the "mods" don't
even want you to think about putting on here.) Good luck with your "Toy". I do sort of miss mine.....

 

[Valence]

Checked the antifreeze protection level. I had to put my camera light behind it to see the floating gauge. Sure was muddy. Not too surprising I suppose.

Looked to be about -15° F. Not the best but will suffice for now. I'll have to keep an eye on our lows and install some heat bulbs in the engine compartment if necessary until it's running properly and can be flushed. Winter here generally hasn't gotten to -10° F, usually just 0° F for a few weeks (night time low).

 

[Alexsha]

You're reminding me that I need to flush my truck's coolant. All 11 gallons :-/

 

[Valence]

You're reminding me that I need to flush my truck's coolant. All 11 gallons :-/

You didn't want all that money anyway, right?

You could install a passive coolant filter. Seems to be a popular/prudent idea. It's something I'd like to do on both my trucks.

 

[Alexsha]

Planning on a filter, but still need a flush.

 

[ranchhopper]

If Im not mistaken the PTO in the 800 series trucks need the trans to be in gear like the old mack trucks did to drive the pump.

 

[catskillpond]

Good luckMine was a 1970 got it about a month ago spent one complete weekend drain everything,grease fuel. oils and filters. Noticed that where the brake lines were attached to the axles had heavy rust eating at the line so we took all the steel and rubber lines out this weekend and ordered new rubber line I guess the steel lines will have to bend ourselves.
We got the emergency brake reliners does anyone have a trick to set the rivets to the new liners found the cable frozen going to have to order a new one.