"Rescued" M816 Wrecker

[wcuhillbilly]

For anyone with the older 5 tons and you're planning to upgrade to the m939 series wedge brakes, it's a lot less labor to just swap the rear axles than to knock these rivets out.

after watching you and M1 go through this my fears have been well confirmed about the better route being to swap axles,,,,, however I do prefer S-cam over getting a wedgy-only a mild pun intended.....

 

[MyothersanM1]

for anyone with the older 5 tons and you're planning to upgrade to the m939 series wedge brakes, it's a lot less labor to just swap the rear axles than to knock these rivets out.

Yeah!!!
I called those rivets and backing plates every four letter word that man knows to exist!

 

[red]

after watching you and M1 go through this my fears have been well confirmed about the better route being to swap axles,,,,, however I do prefer S-cam over getting a wedgy-only a mild pun intended.....

Well if you go commando there aint no need to worry about a wedgy hahaha.


Spent today making the backing plate for the brake pedal. For some reason this truck had 2 turn signal relays mounted, one in the cab (wires cut) and one in the engine bay. Either way the one in the cab had to be removed but at least I won't have to remount it somewhere.




Removing that relay and it's mounting plate revealed one giant hole that someone cut into the firewall at some point with a torch. I know it wasn't Valence, must have been either the owner before or the military.





So had to come up with more metal than originally planned for. Decided to use the skid plate from the airpack and cut it to size.




Lots of drilling with the step bit and tack welding in 2 bolts (2 more later) as studs




Initial fit of the brake pedal. Once the weather clears up again then the last 2 holes will be drilled, studs welded in, then secure it up solid. The backing plate completely covers the firewall hole.



Looks twisted but it sits correctly. The clutch pedal is twisted. The brake pedal sits at the same height as the throttle so it's a easier transition than the original setup was.

 

[red]

Oh today was a bit expensive, about $430 worth of valves, fittings, and more hose ends. That's ordering them on Amazon too which saved alot.

2 R12 service brakes valves (4 ports each so 1 per rear axle with wedge brakes)
1 R14 parking brake valve
Lots of push to connect fittings for remaining chassis plumbing. Varying sizes from 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" pipe thread to 3/8, 5/8" hose.
A dozen 3/8" pipe plugs (to cap off the extra air port at each brake can).
A dozen 3/8" pipe to 1/2" JIC fittings (air can to the heavy duty air hose at each hub).
A dozen 1/2" pipe to 1/2" JIC fittings (R12/R14 valves to air hose).
9 more 13/32 ID hose to 1/2" JIC reusable hose fittings.
Couple 1/4" pipe plugs for the remaining ports on the side of the brake pedal. Eventually want to plumb in a "winch brake" so will remove those later.


Still to order (but cheap)
About 15-20ft of 5/8" tubing to run from the 3rd air tank to the R12/R14 valves. Mix of red and blue.
20ft of 3/8" tubing red color (from dash parking brake valve to R14 at rear axles).
30ft of 3/8" tubing black color for remaining stock air tanks to cab plumbing.

With the polymer airlines that use the push to connect fittings I'm using 3 different colors. Red, blue, and black. Blue for the service brake plumbing, red for the emergency brake plumbing, and black for the misc. Makes it easier to identify and it's more organized.



Made some progress today. Started off by rotating the fitting at the back of the upper air tank a little further in. This line will supply air to the 'new' 3rd tank at the rear of the truck.





Then routed that hose to the rear of the truck (overkill using the steel braided hose here). Also routed the hose for the service brakes (blue) running from the brake pedal to where the R12 valves will be mounted. And the hose running from the 3rd tank drain port (black) towards the bottom of the other tanks.

 

[red]

Forgot to mention, 2 of these arrived not too long ago as well......

 

[wcuhillbilly]

I see a crane drive grease pot.... no progress on the rotary manifold for either of us... mine is sitting in the floor, but hey,,, parts in the floor are cheap compaired to "I need it yesterday, can you overnite???" wish I could convince the wife of this when it comes to the MG42/53 LMG parts kit.....

Those Jakes look great... considering mine looked like an exhibit at "the wonderful world of corrosion" (quote from Down Periscope)....

 

[red]

I see a crane drive grease pot.... no progress on the rotary manifold for either of us... mine is sitting in the floor, but hey,,, parts in the floor are cheap compaired to "I need it yesterday, can you overnite???" wish I could convince the wife of this when it comes to the MG42/53 LMG parts kit.....

Those Jakes look great... considering mine looked like an exhibit at "the wonderful world of corrosion" (quote from Down Periscope)....
View attachment 678539

For the price we got those hydraulic rotary manifolds for I can't complain. Was planning to do the hydraulic system mods in June but with the slow progress on the air brake conversion and a event around July 4th where the crane is needed, the hydraulic mods are probably delayed until July/August.

The pile of parts collected over the winter to be installed on the wrecker is shrinking finally so that's a good thing hahaha. But there are more items that are needed to complete each project.

Air brakes: more polymer hoses, 37 more wheel studs, RTV, acetalyne for the torch.

Jakes: gaskets.

Dog bones: 4 new ends needed, thinking of going with the heavier duty greasable joints. Proper wedge for removing the old ones and a press.

Locker: RTV and a dial guage.

Crane cable replacement: New cable end.

Hydraulic system relocation: Welder for the new tank fittings, filter base, ball valves, couple hoses, bracket to mount both pumps, bolts, PTO shaft, seal retainer at the power divider.

 

[zebedee]

Hey Red - how are you going to mod the hood for the Jakes - speed hump or raise the whole thing on taller sides?

 

[red]

Hey Red - how are you going to mod the hood for the Jakes - speed hump or raise the whole thing on taller sides?

Neither preferably, I'm not a body work kinda guy hahaha. Only ordered 2 Jakes so they should (fingers crossed) fit on the middle/rear heads without having to modify the hood. If body work is needed then will most likely raise the whole thing.


Got some gas for the torch yesterday. Cut the rivet heads off of the driver side middle axle and, with a lot of sledge hammer persuasion, knocked that brake backing plate off. So right at 1/3rd complete with the rivet removal.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

you may be able to squeak by, I had to mod mine but I have the cross over tube for the turbo..
mind you the pic of clearance is with the hood cut for mod.

Also,, you will have to move the port on the firewall for the oil pressure line.



I scalped my hood and added 3" to it, raising the top up but keeping the original profile. kinda a sleeper, you really don't notice it until its sitting next to a stock hood

Disregard gauges,,,, wrong pic,, meant to show moving oil press line

 

[wcuhillbilly]

found pic of oil line. This is with the Jake installed and the old (black vavle cover) in place.

second pic is the oil passage plugs, solid plug is what we have, the open plug is what needs to be inserted for the Jake kit.



oil plug location

 

[Another Ahab]

I scalped my hood and added 3" to it, raising the top up but keeping the original profile. kinda a sleeper, you really don't notice it until its sitting next to a stock hood

Very cool, is that THE Devil's Tower in the background of your yard?!

And PS, how did you "scalp" and re-build the hood, did you weld it all up?

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Surgically cut the top off the hood where the top meets the edges, all the way back to the hinges,. Took the top and raised it about 3" in the front and filled the gap with sheet metal,. Welded, and somewhat smoothed with fiberglass and done.
Yes I have a killer view of Devils Tower

 

[Tracer]

you may be able to squeak by, I had to mod mine but I have the cross over tube for the turbo..
mind you the pic of clearance is with the hood cut for mod.

Also,, you will have to move the port on the firewall for the oil pressure line.

View attachment 678941
View attachment 678942
I scalped my hood and added 3" to it, raising the top up but keeping the original profile. kinda a sleeper, you really don't notice it until its sitting next to a stock hood
View attachment 678943
Good job on the hood. I don't think I would have noticed it if you hadn't mentioned it.

 

[MyothersanM1]

Got some gas for the torch yesterday. Cut the rivet heads off of the driver side middle axle and, with a lot of sledge hammer persuasion, knocked that brake backing plate off. So right at 1/3rd complete with the rivet removal.

View attachment 678714

Go, Man, Go! You're getting there

 

[red]

found pic of oil line. This is with the Jake installed and the old (black vavle cover) in place. View attachment 678945

second pic is the oil passage plugs, solid plug is what we have, the open plug is what needs to be inserted for the Jake kit.

View attachment 678946

oil plug location
View attachment 678947

sweet, not too bad then for the install IF no hood mods are needed. If there is not enough clearance then my goal would be to modify the hood like yours where it's a sleeper.

Can't remember, did you have to replace the push rods with the Jakes or was it just that plug?

Should make some progress tomorrow, hopefully get those rivets completely removed from that hub

 

[wcuhillbilly]

The push rods are the same,,. You should be able to put the Jake's on the rear heads with no hood mod. I had the turbo pipe so I had to lift it another 2-3" over the Jake height. The front Jake is an automatic hood mod but you may be able to lift the grill about an inch or so to gain the smidge of clearance needed. I have another pic of the hood mod I can post up Sat when I get back to the office

The plugs will need swapped on the 2 heads that your jaking and isyou may have to double up the gasket between Jake and rocker as mine was holding the valve open and popping at idle or run.

The actuator solenoids are 12v but there are 24v available for extra $. I wired mine into a reducer for supplying 12vdc to keep repair parts easy

 

[red]

Go, Man, Go! You're getting there

More rivet removal today, now 50% complete with getting rid of those. Middle axle driver side hub. after cleaning them up 2 came out with just some air hammer work. The other 8 required being drilled, then basically folded in with the air hammer before they finally let go.





Not exactly a weak air hammer either, better than any other one that I've used. Long stroke hits much harder.





Brake backing plate is mounted on that side as well so all the middle axle needs now is new wheel studs so the hubs can be assembled then mounted.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Found the other pics of the hood Mod.


basically cut on the flat edge of the hood where the side meets the roll for the top. easier to graft in metal and weld to a flat edge than recreate a rolled edge. Kept it intact at the rear near the hood hinges, and lifted the front up about 2" - 2.5" and welded in some 10gauge metal behind it. had to cut out the center brace for clearance and welded the sides up solid. had to cut a section of the rear brace ribs to clear the coolant tank(turbo relocation) cap on the pass firewall.

 

[Another Ahab]

That was a lot of work. And you did a real good job of it.