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I can change if it would help...
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Maybe I should start a poll?
Good observation. I have that one blocked off as well. Also it would be worth mentioning to have a good seal on the air cleaner housing lid and of course every seal up to the turbo intake.PLEASE NOTE: this will not work! The air cleaner has another small port to the inside! You have to close it off too. Sometimes when almost dead, the engine will burp, blow the board off grab another gulp, and go again as well.
Read here :
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125810-Runaway-multifuel-6-20-14&highlight=runaway
I can change if it would help...
View attachment 657983
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Maybe I should start a poll?
It should not be blocked off but a hose run to the compressor.Good observation. I have that one blocked off as well. Also it would be worth mentioning to have a good seal on the air cleaner housing lid and of course every seal up to the turbo intake.
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I just had my deuce "run away" on saturday and it was enough to need a change of trousers.
Within a minute of it running at full RPMS, smoke billowing out, the exhaust pipe started melting the paint off and I couldn't get the air intake off because the whole thing was already too hot to touch so I stepped away and just prayed the diesel didnt ignite and blow up my hunting cabin. After another few minutes the radiator blew out the coolant and it gasped to a stop,
Just be thankful you didn't throw a rod through the block. Dodging flying shrapnel isn't much fun !Sorry to bring up an old thread but I just had my deuce "run away" on saturday and it was enough to need a change of trousers. I'm new to working on anything bigger than a humvee and wish I had known what a runaway diesel even was before fooling with it. I got the deuce in January (it was originally built by SEWERZUK who posted the whole build thread here on SS) and have been fixing it up since I got it. The guy who had owned it between sewerzuk and me didn't take care of it so I've spent the last year going through it trying to get everything back in order so it'll be a dependable ranch truck. I had already done all of the easy stuff (new belts, batteries, battery shutoff switch, turn signal flasher, new fluids, replaced starter after the cheap keyed ignition stuck open and burned it up). Most recently I noticed diesel leaking out of the IP right around the fuel shutoff housing. The last time I ran it it took a few tries for the fuel shutoff to kill it so I figured the 2 issues may be related. Saturday I took the fuel shutoff housing off (noticed some spent looking oil in the case?), popped the new gasket on, tested the fuel shutoff which seemed to be working fine, and put it back together. I hopped in and hit the start button and it immediately hit full throttle. I pulled the fuel shutoff and it didn't have any effect. While this thing is screaming I looked under the hood to see diesel spewing out all around the IP and whatever the canisters to the right of it are. There was diesel dripping down and spraying up in all directions. Within a minute of it running at full RPMS, smoke billowing out, the exhaust pipe started melting the paint off and I couldn't get the air intake off because the whole thing was already too hot to touch so I stepped away and just prayed the diesel didnt ignite and blow up my hunting cabin. After another few minutes the radiator blew out the coolant and it gasped to a stop, hissing and smoking for several more minutes. I had no idea this was even possible? I'm guessing my IP must have had a much bigger problem than that one gasket but I'm still trying to figure out what the **** happened. Can anyone think of what may have caused this after the minor work I was trying to attempt?
On another note, looks like it's time for me to swap in a Cummins 12v. I've spent a good part of today reading up on it but if there are any must-read threads, I would appreciate being pointed towards them.
Thanks.
See my build thread and/or build site listed below. I have had zero problems on my 12v swap in my bobbed deuce. I also have installed a blast gate on the intake to protect from a runaway.On another note, looks like it's time for me to swap in a Cummins 12v. I've spent a good part of today reading up on it but if there are any must-read threads, I would appreciate being pointed towards them.
Thank you sir. It was supposed to be a routine gasket swap between deer hunts, no idea what I was about to go through!!Glad your cabin was spared.
Glad YOU were also. You sure got a story to tell now.
Just be thankful you didn't throw a rod through the block. Dodging flying shrapnel isn't much fun !
There are many things that could have gone wrong here. Without having the truck in front of them there is really no way anyone can really determine what truly happened. My best guess at this time would be you jammed something when you replaced the shut-off housing. If you over tightened the screws it could cause it to jam.
Again this is all just conjecture at this time. Sorry I couldn't be more specific.
Yeah, definitely putting in a fuel line cutoff valve for my new setup once I get it in. Between the blown engine and just thinking of how much worse this could have been it seems like a cheap and easy way to ensure this doesn’t happen again.The beginning of this thread is a good read. I think the next time I work on my air intake I'll put a blast gate in the air line and an emergency cut off switch in the cab like was mentioned on post #10.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ltifuel-cutoff&p=400130&viewfull=1#post400130
See my build thread and/or build site listed below. I have had zero problems on my 12v swap in my bobbed deuce. I also have installed a blast gate on the intake to protect from a runaway.
Let me know if you have any questions.
That is HanksDeuce's stock-in-trade:I appreciate the offer! I actually spent a good part of the day yesterday reading through your page, it’s really well done. Thank you for taking the time to document all of that and making it available to guys like me.
Don't forget to cover/plug the approximately 1" hole near the back of the air filter can.The beginning of this thread is a good read. I think the next time I work on my air intake I'll put a blast gate in the air line and an emergency cut off switch in the cab like was mentioned on post #10.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ltifuel-cutoff&p=400130&viewfull=1#post400130
Don't forget to cover/plug the approximately 1" hole near the back of the air filter can.
It will still run with the air intake blocked if this is not covered as well.
Yep good way to shut down a runaway Multifuel. But by just inspecting the fuel control unit assembly under the shut down cover you can stop the runaway before it even goes that far. On a truck that is use often and you have checked the fuel control and it is working free as it should it will not get stuck over night or maybe even a year. The plunger sleeve you would think is getting polished by the plunger moving up and down on it so it is very low on the list but the fuel control unit assembly just sits there building up the tarnish.Bangs, whistles, revolutions huge, panic, chewed up phone books, lost gloves..Damaged ensuing every which way!
Here's what we do.
Make sure the intake mushroom is FREELY available. ALL Multifuel Engines.
(Always), Carry a HUGE. C.O.2. Fire Extinguisher.
NO Fuss, No Damage, NO Running!, (Away) If it can't "Burn", It just ain't gonn'a run.
I'm gonna install the gate on the engine side of the air intake. I also have a 5lb CO2 extinguisher.That's be great, wouldn't it?!
Work the fix (order the parts, wait, pull everything apart, assemble it all), then -SURPRISE- a run-away diesel again!!!
Thanks for the critical tip, Mr. doghead.
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