gimpyrobb
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Runaway Multifuel cutoff?
- Thread starter army70deuce
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rustystud
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Picture number three please !
Katavic918
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Good observation. I have that one blocked off as well. Also it would be worth mentioning to have a good seal on the air cleaner housing lid and of course every seal up to the turbo intake.
winfred
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deliver them one at a time back to back to mah haus in port allen loserana in a loop till i keel over dead from dehydration 
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It should not be blocked off but a hose run to the compressor.
78703TX
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but I just had my deuce "run away" on saturday and it was enough to need a change of trousers. I'm new to working on anything bigger than a humvee and wish I had known what a runaway diesel even was before fooling with it. I got the deuce in January (it was originally built by SEWERZUK who posted the whole build thread here on SS) and have been fixing it up since I got it. The guy who had owned it between sewerzuk and me didn't take care of it so I've spent the last year going through it trying to get everything back in order so it'll be a dependable ranch truck. I had already done all of the easy stuff (new belts, batteries, battery shutoff switch, turn signal flasher, new fluids, replaced starter after the cheap keyed ignition stuck open and burned it up). Most recently I noticed diesel leaking out of the IP right around the fuel shutoff housing. The last time I ran it it took a few tries for the fuel shutoff to kill it so I figured the 2 issues may be related. Saturday I took the fuel shutoff housing off (noticed some spent looking oil in the case?), popped the new gasket on, tested the fuel shutoff which seemed to be working fine, and put it back together. I hopped in and hit the start button and it immediately hit full throttle. I pulled the fuel shutoff and it didn't have any effect. While this thing is screaming I looked under the hood to see diesel spewing out all around the IP and whatever the canisters to the right of it are. There was diesel dripping down and spraying up in all directions. Within a minute of it running at full RPMS, smoke billowing out, the exhaust pipe started melting the paint off and I couldn't get the air intake off because the whole thing was already too hot to touch so I stepped away and just prayed the diesel didnt ignite and blow up my hunting cabin. After another few minutes the radiator blew out the coolant and it gasped to a stop, hissing and smoking for several more minutes. I had no idea this was even possible? I'm guessing my IP must have had a much bigger problem than that one gasket but I'm still trying to figure out what the **** happened. Can anyone think of what may have caused this after the minor work I was trying to attempt?
On another note, looks like it's time for me to swap in a Cummins 12v. I've spent a good part of today reading up on it but if there are any must-read threads, I would appreciate being pointed towards them.
Thanks.
On another note, looks like it's time for me to swap in a Cummins 12v. I've spent a good part of today reading up on it but if there are any must-read threads, I would appreciate being pointed towards them.
Thanks.
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Another Ahab
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rustystud
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Just be thankful you didn't throw a rod through the block. Dodging flying shrapnel isn't much fun !
There are many things that could have gone wrong here. Without having the truck in front of them there is really no way anyone can really determine what truly happened. My best guess at this time would be you jammed something when you replaced the shut-off housing. If you over tightened the screws it could cause it to jam.
Again this is all just conjecture at this time. Sorry I couldn't be more specific.
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The beginning of this thread is a good read. I think the next time I work on my air intake I'll put a blast gate in the air line and an emergency cut off switch in the cab like was mentioned on post #10.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ltifuel-cutoff&p=400130&viewfull=1#post400130
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ltifuel-cutoff&p=400130&viewfull=1#post400130
HanksDeuce
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See my build thread and/or build site listed below. I have had zero problems on my 12v swap in my bobbed deuce. I also have installed a blast gate on the intake to protect from a runaway.
Let me know if you have any questions.
78703TX
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Thank you sir. It was supposed to be a routine gasket swap between deer hunts, no idea what I was about to go through!!
That's probably exactly what happened, at least as far as the shut-off not working. I torqued the housing bolts down pretty tight without thinking much about it. As for the engine running away, I'm guessing it had to have been a gasket or something blowing that let the fuel through the pump to where it was feeding itself?
Yeah, definitely putting in a fuel line cutoff valve for my new setup once I get it in. Between the blown engine and just thinking of how much worse this could have been it seems like a cheap and easy way to ensure this doesn’t happen again.
I appreciate the offer! I actually spent a good part of the day yesterday reading through your page, it’s really well done. Thank you for taking the time to document all of that and making it available to guys like me.
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When you say you tighten down the shut down cover or did you remove the fuel control assembly and tighten it down to tight? The shut down cover rod was not strong enough to overcome a stuck fuel unit control assembly or not hooked into the fuel control unit assembly correctly. What is the cause of a run away in a Deuce is a sticky or stuck fuel control unit assembly. Not the shut down cover so to speak. This would not have happened if you had just checked the fuel control unit assembly for free movement period. Sorry this happened to you and now you know why and can help others that do not know about the fuel control unit assembly. Quick and easy way to prevent a Deuce that is not been run for a while or you know nothing about is to remove the shut down cover and check for free movement of the fuel unit control assembly before hitting the start button.
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Another Ahab
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That is HanksDeuce's stock-in-trade:
- Clear explanations thoroughly documented, AND with first class photos.
His posts are always a treat, even when I don't know anything he's talking about!!
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Don't forget to cover/plug the approximately 1" hole near the back of the air filter can.
It will still run with the air intake blocked if this is not covered as well.
Another Ahab
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That's be great, wouldn't it?!
Work the fix (order the parts, wait, pull everything apart, assemble it all), then -SURPRISE- a run-away diesel again!!!
Thanks for the critical tip, Mr. doghead.
dmetalmiki
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Bangs, whistles, revolutions huge, panic, chewed up phone books, lost gloves..Damaged ensuing every which way!
Here's what we do.
Make sure the intake mushroom is FREELY available. ALL Multifuel Engines.
(Always), Carry a HUGE. C.O.2. Fire Extinguisher.
NO Fuss, No Damage, NO Running!, (Away) If it can't "Burn", It just ain't gonn'a run.
Here's what we do.
Make sure the intake mushroom is FREELY available. ALL Multifuel Engines.
(Always), Carry a HUGE. C.O.2. Fire Extinguisher.
NO Fuss, No Damage, NO Running!, (Away) If it can't "Burn", It just ain't gonn'a run.
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Yep good way to shut down a runaway Multifuel. But by just inspecting the fuel control unit assembly under the shut down cover you can stop the runaway before it even goes that far. On a truck that is use often and you have checked the fuel control and it is working free as it should it will not get stuck over night or maybe even a year. The plunger sleeve you would think is getting polished by the plunger moving up and down on it so it is very low on the list but the fuel control unit assembly just sits there building up the tarnish.Bangs, whistles, revolutions huge, panic, chewed up phone books, lost gloves..Damaged ensuing every which way!
Here's what we do.
Make sure the intake mushroom is FREELY available. ALL Multifuel Engines.
(Always), Carry a HUGE. C.O.2. Fire Extinguisher.
NO Fuss, No Damage, NO Running!, (Away) If it can't "Burn", It just ain't gonn'a run.
This is why we say to use and use a lot of Diesel fuel cleaner and something for lubricity. If you are working on a truck that has not had the fuel control checked check it before you start it. It is only two screws and so easy to check. Then if you have a truck that is being used maybe a good idea just check the fuel control every six months to make sure it is not getting sticky. There is a difference between sticky and stuck and sticky the shut down cable will still work and you can fix sticky. Now stuck your going to wide open throttle no matter what and yes you will need you shorts changed.
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Just to add to the runaway thing. Always make sure the cable sheathing clamp is tight that holds the cable by the engine and stops it from moving when you pull the stop out in the cab. Also make sure the cable set screw stopper thingy screw is tight and I have seen when you can bend the cable just a bit right after the barrel thingy so the cable has a harder time to slip. This might help to over come a fuel control that is getting pretty sticky but a good hard pull on the shut down it might just work. The only thing about shutting down a multifuel is you might be alone so it will take longer to get out of the truck and do your thing with the intake. With two people it will be much quicker as the driver can stay in the seat. Just my .02.
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I'm gonna install the gate on the engine side of the air intake. I also have a 5lb CO2 extinguisher.That's be great, wouldn't it?!
Work the fix (order the parts, wait, pull everything apart, assemble it all), then -SURPRISE- a run-away diesel again!!!
Thanks for the critical tip, Mr. doghead.
DB556
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I just saw this on amazon while I was searching for something else and thought of this thread, its a pnuematic exhuast cutout valve, that is all stainless steel and they run around $30-$60
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NC6ZQGP/ref=twister_B07NC78V4X?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
What I was actually looking for was 3"/4" butterfly valves to rebuild huge confetti cannon that came in from a sports team, and I think that might work too abet they are more expensive at $79 to $105 and would need some kind of spring and release pin setup.
https://www.amazon.com/DERNORD-Sani...words=4+butterfly+valve&qid=1573217371&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NC6ZQGP/ref=twister_B07NC78V4X?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
What I was actually looking for was 3"/4" butterfly valves to rebuild huge confetti cannon that came in from a sports team, and I think that might work too abet they are more expensive at $79 to $105 and would need some kind of spring and release pin setup.
https://www.amazon.com/DERNORD-Sani...words=4+butterfly+valve&qid=1573217371&sr=8-3