Sea foam in fuel system

[metalworker393]

Hello and how are you all doing today. So I have a question regarding my fuel system on my genset. I have an MEP 002 for my backup power. I usually start it up and run it for a half an hour a month to keep it ready to go . I had a larger fuel tank made for it after hurricane Sandy, that way I would only have to refill the tank once a day. ( yes there is a float switch, I don't trust it after what happened to our generator at work).
So I usually keep fresh diesel in it, but not running it for an extended time, what should I do about keeping the system clean? I have been reading about sea foam for vehicles, what would be a recommended amount to use if I wanted to add this to my fuel system? I usually add a lubricant to the diesel since I am using low Sulphur diesel. Want to keep it clean, but don't want to damage the IP either. Any input would be appreciated, Thanks, metalworker393

 

[gimpyrobb]

Unless your having issues with the IP, I'd steer clear of using too many addatives. Diesel is pretty stable by itself.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Your in NJ? Use a anti algee and mabe some anti gell if you see temps below 15* or fill it up in the summer.

Seafoam is for gas engines and prob more for fixing a problem than keeping fuel fresh.

 

[justacitizen]

i have used Sea Foam for a long time. it is good to use when the generator is running at the beginning of an outage but as a long term conditioner i say no. you need a good product that is made for just that and it's main purpose is stability and not anti gel. the best is to use the fuel before it gets old in another diesel mower /truck/tractor or something. if you want yor injector pump tp be protected then put some Marvel Mystery Oil in your day tank and exorcise your generator. it would be a shame to have a good generator that won't run because of bad fuel during an extended outage

 

[Light in the Dark]

Seafoam is great for cleaning the combustion system... but its not a stabilizer. You will definitely want to use a quality diesel stabilizer and an anti-algae (and anti-gel in the winter months). Many recommendations have been made, if you do some searching here. I am a fan of PRI-D and the Power Service products.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Seafoams website says it stabilizes gas for 30 days...theres way better products for less money.

 

[911joeblow]

I second the Marvel Oil comment. The issue with most military equipment is that it has been run on JP8, Jet-A and other mixes are a very dry diesel which takes its toll on pumps. The Marvel really helps to lubricate the pump. Alternatively Bio-Diesel is very lubricating if your fuel system can take it. I run 100% bio-Diesel in the summer months in everything from HMMWVs to GenSets with excellent results. They run so quiet with the reduced clanking and rattling from the added lubricity that you would think they were gas engines!

 

[porkysplace]

I'm kind of partial Power Service products they have products for most needs to treat diesel fuel.
https://powerservice.com/

 

[snowtrac nome]

Diesel does not need to be stabilized, the worst enemy for diesel is algie get a biocide add it to your tank before every extended period of time of being on standby. Power service and Stanidine products are good for conditioning fuel, and improving c tain numbers they wont prevent the growth of algie .

 

[DieselAddict]

I may be in the minority but I've never really liked seafoam for anything and especially not to put in a fuel system.

If your diesel fuel is clean and well stored you need nothing more than a biocide to prevent algae.

If your storage tank has a breather system I recommend using a filter that has desiccant. Water is the enemy.

 

[DieselAddict]

Seafoam is great for cleaning the combustion system... but its not a stabilizer. You will definitely want to use a quality diesel stabilizer and an anti-algae (and anti-gel in the winter months). Many recommendations have been made, if you do some searching here. I am a fan of PRI-D and the Power Service products.

A little off topic but one of the best ways I've found to clean a combustion chamber is to use a mixture of methanol and water AKA windshield washer fluid (not the rainx or other stuff, the basic blue cheap stuff). Spray it into the intake with a bug sprayer. Also good for an octane booster for petrol turbo applications. Though chasing the car down the track with a bug sprayer in your hand can be problematic. :O

 

[justacitizen]

i agree use a descant if possible. best practice is don't store more than you can use in six months and add nothing. have a dry empty clean tank that you can fill in quick order if you can see a crisis come your way.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

I may be in the minority but I've never really liked seafoam for anything and especially not to put in a fuel system.

If your diesel fuel is clean and well stored you need nothing more than a biocide to prevent algae.

If your storage tank has a breather system I recommend using a filter that has desiccant. Water is the enemy.

I agree with you. Used seafoam once per manufacture specs..ignition coil went bad..nevet really saw any benifit from it.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I think one also has to factor in their local climate and fuel sources. Considering today's dry diesel coupled with my State's mandate for B5 minimum BioDiesel plus our high humidity climate during the rainy season, I run the following additives for long term storage in aux tank as well as day tank:

- Bio Kleen by Power Service: for use as Biocide
- Optilube XPD : for lubrication, anti-gel, cetane boost, injector cleaner

*Note: I was running Power Service and it seemed to work well, however I recently switched over to Optilube XPD due to some recommendations here on SS and the higher ranking in the following test results pdf:

View attachment Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf



If I have any aged fuel that is starting to look off color/murky I treat with "Clear Diesel" by Power Service and burn through it as soon as possible. Its advertised as a fuel contaminant dispersant that also removes water and is effective in Bio diesel blends. I had an aux tank of 5 yr old diesel that was starting to look a bit weird color wise. I treated with "Clear Diesel" and then pumped out all the fuel through an inline filter and burned in my Kubota tractor and Kubota mower and it burned/ran really well.

One problem you might encounter on the MEP-002/-003 fuel tanks is that the fuel drain in the bottom of tank is not dimpled in the bottom of tank (no sump to catch water). Water can accumulate on bottom of tank over time due to condensation within tank (breathing). If you unit is not completely level it can pool in one end of tank. If left untreated you can end up springing pin hole leaks due to internal tank corrosion. When I am not running my gensets I keep all the tank vents closed and tanks full, within a couple of inches of fill neck to allow for expansion. This helps to limit tank breathing reducing the moisture laden air exchange within the tank.

 

[Kenny0]

I second that about not using additives, but could be specific incidents where they should be used. Oxygen, heat and water will degrade gas or diesel fuel. The only equipment that I use an additive in is my MEP 802. I use Pri-D for the fuel in it. Add it when you fill the tank(s) and add once per year after that. If mine doesn't get fuel used up for 3-4 years I will use it up in my other equipment and start fresh again. In gas motors imo the only fuel for a low usage equipment is AVGas. More expensive, but has a longgg Shelve life and will never gum up the fuel system. As far as low sulfur diesel goes, it's supposed to meet a lubricity standard so no additives needed. Your diesel could already contain 5% bio-diesel already for lubricity. B5 and below does not need to be labeled at the pump. B6 and above must be labeled at the pump.

 

[Chainbreaker]

As far as SeaFoam goes...it is "advertised" for use in both gas and diesel engines. It makes a LOT of CLAIMS as: fuel stabilizer, injector cleaner, control moisture in fuel, lubricity additive, de-ice & antigel (the list goes on) and even as an oil additive before or after oil changes (I think for sludge/film breakup & removal).

I'm always suspicious of products that are advertised with a very wide range of benefits (snake oil?). However, I do think SeaFoam has a place in both gas and diesel engines as a fuel system gum, varnish and deposit remover. I used a can on my gas carbureted JD Gator and it eliminated a stumble/hesitation I was having. A few months ago I ran a can through my MEP-002a day tank as "preventative maintenance" step primarily as a fuel system cleaner/conditioner mainly targeted at keeping check valve and injection pump healthy in my mind. Couldn't tell any difference but I wasn't having any problems to begin with.

Whether it does all that it claims to do on the can is questionable to me. YMMV

Here is a shot of a SeaFoam can label for those that have not seen one:

 

[SCSG-G4]

Optilube XPD is my choice for lubricity, however it is mail order and cheaper to purchase two gallons at a time. A more local source, but more expensive is to pick up Biobore-JF and Biobore-MD from the local marine (boats) dealer. Biobore-JF is a biocide agent (3.5 cc's for five gallons), and Biobore-MD is a lubricity agent for Marine Diesel engines. I use them in my RAM 2500 with the Cummins 5.9 Turbo engine as well as the deuces.

 

[devilphrog]

I can second Biobor JF.. Good stuff and a little goes a long way. We use it at work to treat and prevent microbiological growth in our jet fuels. You might want to check out Lubribor as well as a lubricity additive as well.

 

[metalworker393]

Thanks for the responses guys, I'm not really thinking along the lines of a "stabilizer" . I am more interested in keeping the system "clean" , trying to avoid any varnish, and at the same time I want to keep the IP lubricated.
I usually keep diesel in it that has a nice clear yellow tint to it. The local Sunoco fuel station has good diesel and so does the local Wawa. There is another fuel company ,their diesel is pretty" Filthy" I stay away from them. So to get this correct, the general conclusion is that Marvel Mystery oil wont hurt the IP , orings or the fuel pumps?
I keep a 55 gallon drum of diesel on hand in case of an outage, was very ideal during Sandy. I pump that off about every 6 months into my deuce. You know how they drink up the fuel. I should be adding an algaecide to that. How about that and MMO ?
Thanks, metalworker393

 

[justacitizen]

Thanks for the responses guys, I'm not really thinking along the lines of a "stabilizer" . I am more interested in keeping the system "clean" , trying to avoid any varnish, and at the same time I want to keep the IP lubricated.
I usually keep diesel in it that has a nice clear yellow tint to it. The local Sunoco fuel station has good diesel and so does the local Wawa. There is another fuel company ,their diesel is pretty" Filthy" I stay away from them. So to get this correct, the general conclusion is that Marvel Mystery oil wont hurt the IP , orings or the fuel pumps?
I keep a 55 gallon drum of diesel on hand in case of an outage, was very ideal during Sandy. I pump that off about every 6 months into my deuce. You know how they drink up the fuel. I should be adding an algaecide to that. How about that and MMO ?
Thanks, metalworker393

in my opinion under the above circumstances you don't need any additives. if you like more lubricity with light cleaning action then MMO is your ticket. i have been using MMO for decades with no adverse affects.