Series & Parallel Hook Up

[Tlauden]

Just another idea, But would this work to get 12v on the 24v System? you obviously continue to run the two 12v batteries in series to get the trucks 24v power. but also hook them up in parallel to gain the 12v using both batts so your not using one more than the other. I made a quick sketch to show what i mean since i cant really explain it much better

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members/tlauden-albums-general-picture13932-would-work.jpg

Please correct me if im wrong with this idea, i am new to this MV world and honestly i don't own one yet, but i'm trying to gain knowledge so when i by my deuce i'm not completely lost lol

Thanks in advance
Tyler

 

[doghead]

NO you can not do that.

 

[kevin-m1008]

What are you trying to do?

maybe there are other ways to solve your problem

 

[glcaines]

This would be a dead short and if you hook it up this way, there is a strong likelihood that batteries would explode! Don't try this!

 

[Bighurt]

Bad idea.

Here is proper example.

 

[Tlauden]

ok, thanks, and what i had in mind was a way to run 12v accessories on the 24v system without any converters or anything like that. and thanks for the input, like i said it was just an idea i had. i honestly didnt know if it was a good or bad one. thanks though now i can throw away this idea before i would go and destroy something lol ive never worked on a 24v system before so im trying to gain knowledge on it

 

[wsucougarx]

Tlauden thanks for bringing this topic up. I was brainstorming this morning about this very thing. Bigburt thanks for the diagram. Now I am electrically incompetant. How would a guy hook up 6 batteries for a 24v?

 

[Stalwart]

You could, you would wire IDENTICAL batteries in pairs of two in series and then wire the pairs in parallel. You could, but why? You could get away with 2 BIG 12V batteries (4D or 8D), or 2 pair of slightly smaller batteries. I have only 2 Batteries in the HEMTT, they are group 31 type, kinda small I know. I may add one or two more at a later time for the 12V systems.

 

[Unforgiven]

Your green wire connecting the two neg. terminals is making a direct short on the left-hand battery via the red/black wire.

Use a battery isolator or run a 2nd 12v alternator/battery.

 

[Tlauden]

ok, thanks everyone, i was researching this topic most of the day and i think when it comes time, i will just get the 24v-12v converter. All i want to run is probably additional LED marker lights and 6-8 LED warning lights for when i take it on fire calls.

 

[armadillofz1]

I paid $24 for a 15A 24v-12v converter on ebay. easy, cheap, painless. got a car battery at the dump. put it all in a box under the seat.

 

[Rodehard]

What you want to do... pull 12vdc off a 24vdc system... is easy enough to do. Look at a friends bass boat with 12/24 trolling motor- same hookup.
12vdc leads come from one 12vdc battery. 24vdc can be from (2) 12vdc batts, hooked up pos lead to #1pos terminal, jumper from #1 neg to #2 pos, #2 neg to negative (return) lead.
A battery isolater is a good idea to evenly charge batteries. The pos lead from the alternator to the isolater, then seperate pos leads from isolater to each batt pos lug. Ground the isolater to engine block.

 

[drgreg]

O.P. , glad you asked, but there is not a safe way to draw 12 volts, from a 24 volt system. A 24 volt system, like on a deuce, is using (2) 12 volt batteries as a single battery. The deuce uses a single 24 source to charge this system. So each battery is effected by the other.
If you want 12 volts, I feel the best method is to use a 24V to 12V converter.

 

[Sevin7]

Just another idea, But would this work to get 12v on the 24v System? you obviously continue to run the two 12v batteries in series to get the trucks 24v power. but also hook them up in parallel to gain the 12v using both batts so your not using one more than the other. I made a quick sketch to show what i mean since i cant really explain it much better

I had the exact same idea. I thought I was a genius and couldn't figure out why no one else had thought of it. Then I made a sketch as you did and realized that I was creating a 800amp short. I realize now that there are very few original ideas when it comes to the deuce that are that simple.

 

[Tlauden]

I had the exact same idea. I thought I was a genius and couldn't figure out why no one else had thought of it. Then I made a sketch as you did and realized that I was creating a 800amp short. I realize now that there are very few original ideas when it comes to the deuce that are that simple.

At least im not the only one and i guess your right by saying all the simple ideas are gone lol

and armadillofz1, correct me if im wrong, the 12v battery charges off the 12v side of the converter, and the converter and battery would "share" the load off the 12v accessories? am i correct in saying that? im assuming thats how your setup would work

 

[jhooah]

Putting the negative of your 12 volt to the negative 'grounded' 24 volt set, and the + positive 12 volt to the + grounded battery positive WILL give you 12 volts. Only deficiency is your batteries will not be charging evenly when you turn on that 12 volt load.

I ran a HUMVEE 2 years in the desert with a 12 volt radio and light hooked up so i had music on my military rig. Now I never had to replace batteries in those two years, but I'm certain I did not "help" the laws of electrical Gods that say it destroys the batterys. For limited or low amperage use you will be fine for a long time... worst case tossa charger on your grounded battery to bring it up to full load once in a while, or rotate the batteries to even out the work load.
Would a electronic converter sold for trucks be better: Yep...
But you can likely run your LED's off that grounded battery just fine for years, and shorten the lifespan of your battery ???? to some measurable point ???? of SWAG a year less service So if batteries are available to you for $40 each (interstate blemish) every few years, I'd say go ahead and put the minor night time load of your LEDs (with a fuse) on the grounded battery.

And I'm not arguing against doing it "right" just sometimes the simplest solution still works fine for years and we get all uptight about people doing things that work even if they are inefficient.
V/R W Winget

PS: Do not try to hook the batteries in Parallel while they are in Series though, or ground out your wedding ring or a wrench with a battery unless you like hospitals. WAW

 

[dittle]

Can you not find 24V LEDs that would fit your need? Here is some online, might be just as easy to go that route.

160 Amber 24-Volt PIRANHA LED Thin-Line Clearance and Side Marker Light - 160 Series >> Piranha LED Thin-Line Clearance / Side Marker Light

 

[drgreg]

Just curious, does the HUMVEE use a single alt, like a Deuce, or does it have dual alts, like the CUCV?

 

[Rodehard]

I would agree that normal truck operating electrical loads... lights and such, should be of the 24vdc variety. 24vdc bulbs are very much available and not much more expensive. Also keeps with the principles of K.I.S.S. rule. My 12vdc loads are basically a powerblock installed to power 3 or 4 cigarette lighter outlets to power cell phone charger, gps, mp3, etc.. not enough drain to worry about "lopsided" batteries charging.
MAJOR NOTE: If you are the type who does not understand dc electricity principles, DON"T screw with it. Make friends with someone local who is. Welding with battery cables is exciting, but can have expensive results.

 

[jhooah]

Just curious, does the HUMVEE use a single alt, like a Deuce, or does it have dual alts, like the CUCV?

If I am correct, the dual CUCV's are 12 volters rigged to provide 24 volts, and the CUCV uses 12 and 24 volt components so you may find some parts from an old one that would assist in wiring up something different. I think the body group is 24V and the engine components are 12V from what I recall reading.

As to the HUMVEE, it had/has one large black or green altenator (looks like a 'generator' but it's really an altenator.) Same setup as a Deuce, but a different model (not that someone can't reconfigure them I'm sure) These go all the way back to the early 70's M151A2, whereas the earlier 151A1's had the older generators with external regulators that looked like bricks with fins.

Now Bradley fighting vehicles and other armored vehicles run a high output 24Volt unit, which would allow someone to REALLY power up some extra lights on a deuce
V/R WAW