SHC35 and SHC60 Battery

Poccur

Member
136
24
18
Location
Roanoke, VA
Found this. It allows a SHC heater with a dead battery to jump it from a 24v NATO connector on any MIL vehicle...or you can use another 24vDC supply...

You connect cable between battery and SHC heater, once it is up and running you can disconnect and reconnect the battery directly and continue to use the heater. It fools the heater into starting and away you go...
 

Attachments

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,550
6,311
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Found this. It allows a SHC heater with a dead battery to jump it from a 24v NATO connector on any MIL vehicle...or you can use another 24vDC supply...

You connect cable between battery and SHC heater, once it is up and running you can disconnect and reconnect the battery directly and continue to use the heater. It fools the heater into starting and away you go...
.
That's Cool!

Even more so if I had the Jump Box and a 35k or 60k space heater.
Simple civilians called them a torpedo or bullet heater. ;-)

Most likely I would choke when I got a price - but it really is a neat idea!
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
These guys will run off a couple 12v 8ah batteries. I have to spoof the battery temp sensor and the battery heater (working on a solution that will use the same components, but as those who have these know the batteries are epoxied into the pack along with the sensor and heating element).

I have to wait until after dark to work on mine. The thing refuses to start above 90 degrees, LOL
 
Last edited:

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
The battery pack consists of two rows of 6 x 2v. It's still only a 12v pack (two 12v batteries that are not even in parallel) .

It is NOT a 24v system!

There are separate leads to each battery (r+, blk- and w+ grn-). Two white wires for the heating element, and two brown wires for the temp sensor.

Powering the unit is a simple task (12v 8ah to red+ and blk- and a 12v 8ah to white+ and green -).

The kicker is that you can extract the heating element of temp sensor from the epoxy. Replacing the two items shouldn't be difficult if we can sort out the specs on them.

I fired both of mine up this evening (my neighbors are freaking that I was running a jet engine, LMAO). Plus it was like 95 here today, so I may be nuts but I'll be damned if Texas freezes again and I'm not ready). ;p

20210809_180138.jpg

Here's the battery guts. You can see I simply clipped the leads and bypassed to my two 12v 8ah Interstates. The temp sensor and heating element are technically still there (just not on the operational batteries). The orange divider running down the center is the heating element.


20210809_215247.jpg

And here are the leads. Red, big white are pos; blk and grn are neg; the brown are to the temp sensor (it monitors the batteries ambient temp and tells the controller to fire up the heating element as needed); and the two small white leads go to the heating element itself.

20210809_215336.jpg
 
Last edited:

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
I also need to figure out the output on the internal charger. These things keep the batteries topped off via a thermal generator that spins with the generated heat. Pretty cool stuff. But I'm not sure what effect various sized batteries would have on the charging system (that's why I stayed with smaller amp hour batteries). Well that and they will fit in the tray.

But I think it will be doable.

1) Find/fab an enclosure for the new batteries
2) Find a temp sensor that will work
3) Find a heating element
4) Confirm that the charging system can maintain the provided batteries
5) Install fuses (each battery has it's own fuse in the batter pack but in-line will do)
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
.
That's Cool!

Even more so if I had the Jump Box and a 35k or 60k space heater.
Simple civilians called them a torpedo or bullet heater. ;-)

Most likely I would choke when I got a price - but it really is a neat idea!
They've been selling for around $100 on GP. Many with very low hours (both mine have under 20). The buggers are the ones with no controllers, but most coming out of NVegas have shown to be intact.

Ideally, I'd have a 35K if I could find one (the 60K is a beast to lug around). I love the fact that they are 100% self-contained, though. I looked at a lot of types of various surplus heaters and settled on these. A lot of tech in them that can fail, though.
 

ZiggyO

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
521
264
63
Location
Nebraska
You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z
I didn't know you made those. PM me a price if you will. No sense reinventing the wheel if I can afford it.
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Tinkering with bits.

Here's the specs on the heating element

14.5v 105w

It's far more wattage than I would have imagined for a "battery heater". I have some 7w pads coming and they should do fine for when it sits out in a South Texas Winter (aka the month of February) but there are all sorts of wattages available.

20210814_145402.jpg


My heat sensor is dead so I can't check the resistance, but I did what someone in another thread said and ordered a sensor from a 2005 Ford E-series. Will just have to see if it works. The Ford sensor looks to be sitting at 17 ohms.

20210814_145449.jpg
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,550
6,311
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Tinkering with bits.

Here's the specs on the heating element

14.5v 105w

It's far more wattage than I would have imagined for a "battery heater". I have some 7w pads coming and they should do fine for when it sits out in a South Texas Winter (aka the month of February) but there are all sorts of wattages available.

View attachment 842431


My heat sensor is dead so I can't check the resistance, but I did what someone in another thread said and ordered a sensor from a 2005 Ford E-series. Will just have to see if it works. The Ford sensor looks to be sitting at 17 ohms.

View attachment 842432
.
That is interesting! We have pads like that to fit into a plate processing machine. In the machine we have, it isn't very deep but the heating element sits in a chemical (water and other stuff). These heating pads are submersible. Attaching these particular pads to power will "smoke" them if they are not completely covered with liquid. That is a $125 + Shipping mistake in our case.

Can I be nosy and ask what size these battery heating pads are?
Then based on my other babbling above - what happens if the battery heater gets wet?
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
The pad that was in the battery box was just slipped between the two rows of cells as in the pics above. Once I pried the batteries lose the pad didn't have much footing in the epoxy.

This is the 7w element I ordered. My plan was to use one under each battery.

 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
My plan at this stage is to place the two SLA batteries in a Harbor Freight case. I'll re-purpose the box-mounted fuse holders and connector from the OEM battery.

I kind of like the idea of keeping the battery box external to the heater (the damned thing is heavy enough to drag around w/o the battery).

 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,550
6,311
113
Location
Charlotte NC
The pad that was in the battery box was just slipped between the two rows of cells as in the pics above. Once I pried the batteries lose the pad didn't have much footing in the epoxy.

This is the 7w element I ordered. My plan was to use one under each battery.

.
Guessing you have a plan for a controller on the elements below the batteries?
Max Temp of 212f might be a little warm without something to control them.
Would be interesting what you picked for that job.
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
.
Guessing you have a plan for a controller on the elements below the batteries?
Max Temp of 212f might be a little warm without something to control them.
Would be interesting what you picked for that job.

Still reading up in the Op and Repair manual how the unit regulates the exiting OEM pad.

For one of my two heaters I will use the OEM element (it's still good).
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,273
1,674
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Annnnnnd


Horror Freight was out of the small knockoff Pelican cases.

I was looking at alternatives there when It dawned on me, I have lots of them in the supply room. A 50cal can is just wide enough to hold a pair side-by-side. An 7.26 can is the perfect width for the batteries, but not long enough for two.

LOL

20210815_115233.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks