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SHC35 and SHC60 Battery

ZiggyO

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Quick update from last night. Got back to work on the heater and restarted it to listen to the alarm code beep.
Carefully counted 18 beeps, instead of the previous 16 I thought I heard.
18 means battery temp sensor fault. I just built the battery with the 5.7 ohm resistor so lets start there. Looked at the plug and noticed one of the pins was not seated all the way in and was not making contact. I little work and the pin seated and lets retry. Made it all the way thru the startup cycle only to fault out on code 3 fuel system. All looked good but I think I did no have enough head pressure on my fuel can to push the fuel to the system, as my float was dry. Set heater on the ground for my final try and the damn battery was too low to start. that was after about 10 test starts. the battery is charging and I will fire it up tonight and let you all know then outcome.

When you do a dry start (hasn't had fuel in it for a while), you will need to do 2-3 start cycles to purge air out of the fuel system. Every heater I have had has done this-- you are well on your way to having it running. Also, you need a height difference between the can and the heater to generate enough fuel flow as it is gravity fed.

Z
 

Texas243

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When you do a dry start (hasn't had fuel in it for a while), you will need to do 2-3 start cycles to purge air out of the fuel system. Every heater I have had has done this-- you are well on your way to having it running. Also, you need a height difference between the can and the heater to generate enough fuel flow as it is gravity fed.

Z
She's alive and cooking. Works like a champ.
 

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flyfishtrailer

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Reworking this thread to ask a question. I just picked up a SHC 60 and it still had the battery pack (batteries are toast after trying to recharge). I found for the battery box was easy to open and wonder if anyone has actually replaced the 12 batteries and resealed it up? It seems this could be an easy solution. Just wondering if anyone has done this before and would be willing to share a part number or link to the batteries. I haven't dug them out of the epoxy just yet to look for numbers but hope to do so next weekend.
 

ZiggyO

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Yes I have done it--- they are hawker enercells. The mechanics of doing so are easy, its the cost that makes most people think twice. The last one I did ended up costing about $240. They are not happy going for long periods without cycling/charging. In a light use situation like most of us have, expect to rebuild the pack again in a few years.

Z
 

rolling18

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Reworking this thread to ask a question. I just picked up a SHC 60 and it still had the battery pack (batteries are toast after trying to recharge). I found for the battery box was easy to open and wonder if anyone has actually replaced the 12 batteries and resealed it up? It seems this could be an easy solution. Just wondering if anyone has done this before and would be willing to share a part number or link to the batteries. I haven't dug them out of the epoxy just yet to look for numbers but hope to do so next weekend.
for mine I have found the easiest and by far cheapest fix is to buy the little adapter off eBay for like $60

then I just used 2 motorcycle batteries that fit in that same spot.
And now it works perfectly with no errors. Even better you can use batteries that are AGM and have better chemistry or whatever is best for your use
 

flyfishtrailer

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Yes I have done it--- they are hawker enercells. The mechanics of doing so are easy, its the cost that makes most people think twice. The last one I did ended up costing about $240. They are not happy going for long periods without cycling/charging. In a light use situation like most of us have, expect to rebuild the pack again in a few years.

Z
Z,

I was looking at these (below). They would fit into the stock battery bow and seem to cover the needs. Since the heater recharges them, not a need for a lot of amp hours. Thoughts?

Duracell Ultra 12V 2.3AH General Purpose AGM SLA Battery with F1 Terminals - SLAA12-2.2F at Batteries Plus
 

Third From Texas

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Z,

I was looking at these (below). They would fit into the stock battery bow and seem to cover the needs. Since the heater recharges them, not a need for a lot of amp hours. Thoughts?

Duracell Ultra 12V 2.3AH General Purpose AGM SLA Battery with F1 Terminals - SLAA12-2.2F at Batteries Plus

Not sure.

The 8ah batteries put out a total of about 20a (a little over 10a per battery). Just a guess, but I suspect that it might cook off a "Low Voltage" alarm on the controller before the charging kicks in. While the system is pretty self contained once it reaches "Charging" state, it is pretty picky about having enough power during startup and the first ten or so minutes until the charging system actually kicks in.

See if you can find out how many max amps those batteries can put out at max discharge.

My cheapo Amazon 12v 8ah batteries are still holding up, but the controller has fussed at me a few times if I didn't fully top off the batteries before run up. The first sign of degradation I want to try a pair of these. The nice thing about the Lithium is they can be taken flat some 2000+ times and still be brought to full power (where acid and AGMs degrade with each drain)
*keep in mind that I build an external battery box out of an ammo can for my heaters, and not the stock battery location.


If I ever get around to doing it, I will update.
 
Last edited:

ZiggyO

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for mine I have found the easiest and by far cheapest fix is to buy the little adapter off eBay for like $60

then I just used 2 motorcycle batteries that fit in that same spot.
And now it works perfectly with no errors. Even better you can use batteries that are AGM and have better chemistry or whatever is best for your use

I sell that adapter on ebay....... but I sell it here for less (because on here, we are not subject to ebay's pound of flesh).

Z
 

ZiggyO

Well-known member
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Nebraska
Z,

I was looking at these (below). They would fit into the stock battery bow and seem to cover the needs. Since the heater recharges them, not a need for a lot of amp hours. Thoughts?

Duracell Ultra 12V 2.3AH General Purpose AGM SLA Battery with F1 Terminals - SLAA12-2.2F at Batteries Plus

Remember that you are driving a glow plug, the main and secondary blowers, and the fuel pump at startup before the TEG kicks in...... you need preferably 10+ amps to handle that for the start sequence. I highly doubt those duracells will make the cut.

Z
 

Third From Texas

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I had no battery pack for the heater I purchased. Anyone have a way to wire a 9 pin connect to a commercial battery?
Look back a page or two in this thread.

You can make your own battery solution. The way the unit is powered and the way it charges, requires two batteries. A single would not work. I seem to recall that there is a minimum size (amp hours) but a couple larger batteries should work . But I'm not sure how large a battery the little charging system can handle.

IMO you 'd be better off staying with smaller batteries (portability, cost, speed of charging to required voltage, storage space).
 

torp5061

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Look back a page or two in this thread.

You can make your own battery solution. The way the unit is powered and the way it charges, requires two batteries. A single would not work. I seem to recall that there is a minimum size (amp hours) but a couple larger batteries should work . But I'm not sure how large a battery the little charging system can handle.

IMO you 'd be better off staying with smaller batteries (portability, cost, speed of charging to required voltage, storage space).
Outstanding...Just reviewed. Many thanks!
 

torp5061

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You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z
These guys will run off a couple 12v 8ah batteries. I have to spoof the battery temp sensor and the battery heater (working on a solution that will use the same components, but as those who have these know the batteries are epoxied into the pack along with the sensor and heating element).

I have to wait until after dark to work on mine. The thing refuses to start above 90 degrees, LOL
How did you spoof the temp sensor and heater?
 

Third From Texas

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How did you spoof the temp sensor and heater?
A simple resister cam spoof the temp but there are also actual temp sensors.


This is the heating element I used (test them before use, as I had one that ran SUPER hot).

For the temp sensor I used an ff-the-self ambient temp sensor:
 

torp5061

New member
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South Dakota
A simple resister cam spoof the temp but there are also actual temp sensors.


This is the heating element I used (test them before use, as I had one that ran SUPER hot).

For the temp sensor I used an ff-the-self ambient temp sensor:
Thanks for all the help on this
 

SES50

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Look back a page or two in this thread.

You can make your own battery solution. The way the unit is powered and the way it charges, requires two batteries. A single would not work. I seem to recall that there is a minimum size (amp hours) but a couple larger batteries should work . But I'm not sure how large a battery the little charging system can handle.

IMO you 'd be better off staying with smaller batteries (portability, cost, speed of charging to required voltage, storage space).
Are you sure on the two verse one batteries? I have seen a lot of people saying two batteries, but have not actually seen a post where someone has confirmed they tried it and it defiantly will not work. I have seen post saying that the two batteries need to be matched pretty close.

I am trying to understand if you attached two 14 AWG wires with 20 amp fuses to the positives side of a car battery and two 14 AWG wires to the negative side, why the electronics would not just think that is was two batteries that were perfectly matched.

Thanks in advance for your answers.
 

Poccur

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Roanoke, VA
Are you sure on the two verse one batteries? I have seen a lot of people saying two batteries, but have not actually seen a post where someone has confirmed they tried it and it defiantly will not work. I have seen post saying that the two batteries need to be matched pretty close.

I am trying to understand if you attached two 14 AWG wires with 20 amp fuses to the positives side of a car battery and two 14 AWG wires to the negative side, why the electronics would not just think that is was two batteries that were perfectly matched.

Thanks in advance for your answers.
Because that is only 12V, some of the parts inside are 24VDC
 

torp5061

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South Dakota
The parts for this entire replacement assembly are on the previous pages. I installed the resistor on mine to fool the temp sensor-works great. Just buy the plug, a few pin on ends, the resistor and the battery and you are golden.
Mine works like a champ.
Got the heater working this weekend. Ran for 15 minutes. Charging indicator never came on...Anyway to verify charging system is working?
 
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