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Shelter carrier hardware

firefox

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Thanks guys, My only concern with the preasure treated wood is that it has a tendency to
react with the galvanized steel. So make sure your bed has a few coats of paint on it, or stick
some old inner tube rubber to the bottom of the dunnage.
Bruce
 

2deuce

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I looked at some pictures of shelters on HMMWV's and the ones on the M1097 look like they are the same s-250g shelter, where the shelter that is on the other HMMWV variants is built to fit the HMMWV only. The fit in the M1097 is tight to the cab. I don't see anything on my shelter where it may have been bolted down and like I said before the jacks and the brackets they are bolted to would not work with the width of the HMMWV. So I'm thinking this shelter was originally on a M1028 but used a different donnage setup in the front.
 

islandguydon

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My M1028 has 2 brackets 2" from the tailgate, bolt pattern for the 2 bolts per bracket is 4" apart. The bolts run through the upper frame. Thats all I know.

I decided to mount my shelter on my M105 trailer. This way your shelter is mobile by many means of transport and not just the truck, just a thought.
 
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2deuce

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Thanks for the pictures willey10. It seems all these shelters were built different. I haven't seen 2 built the same. I'll try to post a picture of mine.

Was a plate that covered the side rails of the pickup box part of the shelter hardware on the M1028?

Thanks
 
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m38inmaine

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There was never any rails for the bedsides. The dunnage lifts the shelter off of the bed sides. All the S-250's are the same dimensions, just the interior layout, exterior panels etc are different. The only hardware in the bed is the front crossbar and the two rear brackets.
 

2deuce

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I'm still in need of the front crosspiece, and while the bed rails may not have been part of the shelter hardware, the military did install them with the other shelter carrier hardware pieces on my truck. I'm the 1st civilian owner. I'll get a picture of the rails.
 

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firefox

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Very cool! Did the jacks come with the shelter, or did you add them. I would really like to add that feature to mine so any details would be very much appreciated.
Bruce
 

emr

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Just an fyi on pressure treated wood, it sure will rot, it is treated for insect penetration, not rot, it will last longer than most woods though, but not all, and it should be treated with a wood preservative if U want to get picky, just a friendly fyi, :) a good wood primer and paint with proper drying times will do most well also, or just use it, your choice, but U should know this is true about it rotting. ALSO pressure treated wood will NOT react to galvanized steel, only plain steel and zinc coated and electro coated steel are going to react with it,, Galvanized is the only steel besides stainless U should use. this is also true. and stated in national building codes.
 
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2deuce

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The jacks came with the shelter, I didn't add them. I'll get a closeup picture.

I stated it won't rot only because that is my experience, I'm sure it eventually will, but one board I used under my shelter was partially buried in dirt for the last 10 years and showed no sign of rot yet. I just washed it off.
 

2deuce

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The jacks came with big caster wheels bolted to the bottom of the jacks for rolling the shelter, probably on and off the truck but I don't have any flat areas, everything around here has a slope so I removed them and used blocks.
 

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bigmike

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I just did a search for how to secure my new S250 shelter and found this thread. What great info! These are the times when I am so impressed with the knowledge that is available from this site...that doesn't have to do with bobbing or modifying a perfectly good truck.:twisted:
 

2deuce

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Does anyone have a shelter in their CUCV? I had one in a M1028 9 years ago. I didn't have the correct dunnage under it at the time and I ended up removing the shelter. Sold the truck and eventually got a different M1028. I'm going to put the same shelter back in this current truck. I noticed the military had aux. tiedowns for shipping CUCV's with s250 shelters on railcars. They added these to the standard tiedowns. They look to really secure the shelter in the truck. It wouldn't seem(maybe I'm missing something)like a ride on a railcar would be that rough, but 4 wheel'in with a shelter back there could be. I'm wondering if I shouldn't make a set. Has anyone ever felt that the standard shelter cables were not secure enough in their travels? Anyone have a picture of their truck with a shelter in it?
I've got the dunnage made like the TM plan design. I'm going to fasten it together in the truck and get the shelter in there in the next few days.
Thanks
 

2deuce

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I have cut the pressure treated lumber to the dimensions in the TM but I'm not making sense of it when it's in the back of my truck. When nailing it down the assembly instructions call for a 3/16 overhang in the back, a 13/16" overhang in the front. There are cutouts for the fenders and the tiedowns in the rear. The top plank is notched out to the 16th of an inch front and rear, but the shelter doesn't come near any of these precision cuts. I have tried to find an actual installation on the web and can't find anything yet. I did find a picture of Gov liq selling a M1028 with a shelter years ago and it didn't have any dunnage under it. The shelter looked to be resting on the bed on 2 trucks sitting side by side. I wanted to be able to take the truck off road and thought the dunnage would keep the shelter in place, but so far I don't see the benefit of the front and rear wood since the shelter will sit between all of it. I hope somebody can straighten me out.

Thanks
 

2deuce

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I think I know how the shelter is mounted with the hardware. It's the dunnage under the shelter that is perplexing. The specs for it are down to the 16th of an inch. Besides lifting the shelter higher in the bed so it won't ride on the bed rails, I don't see what the end planks are designed to do. I have not put the shelter in the bed yet. I thought the corners were intended to fit in the precisely cut end planks, but unless I move them out of position of the equally precise assembly instructions, they appear to have no function. I must be overlooking something and hope a member who has built this dunnage can help me out.
 

antennaclimber

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I used 3/8" chain and 1/2" turnbuckles to secure the shelter to the tie downs. It hasn't moved yet.
As for the dunnage, I had an Amish friend of mine build it. The shelter fit snugly for the most part. After some "trimming" with a chain saw, it fit well.
Sorry, I do not have any pictures of the dunnage.
 

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2deuce

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portland, oregon
So I took one of the end planks and held it up to the shelter. It looks like the cutouts in it are for access to the shackles on the 4 corners. I thought those shackles were for a different application than the CUCV. Now it looks like they are used for something to possibly lift the shelter, I don't know. It doesn't look like they are used as part of the shelter hold down system. I don't have anything that attaches to them.

Antennaclimber, did you use the same chains in the back? Do you know what the 4 lower shackles on the shelter are for? I have seen many CUCV's with eyebolts in the 4 corners of the bed, but the way the end plates are cut doesn't support that use, or the cuts would have been different. So you used a chainsaw...the dunnage plans call for a micrometer. The plans are crazy precise, and I don't see the reason for it.


 
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