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Should I check anything else before i drop my fuel tank?

parlusk

Member
277
3
18
Location
southwest virginia
I have had fuel problems since I have gotten this 09 running a couple of years ago. First off it was air in the fuel then water. I have installed a spin on fuel filter and that solved my problem until the other day. After driving up to a friends hunting cabin it died when I got back on the main road. I let it sit for a couple of minutes then it fired back up I would rev it up with no problems but as soon as it went back up the road it would die. I was able to let it sit for a couple of days and was able to make it so some rental properties that we own. I went down saturday with a inline fuel pump and a 2 gallon can of diesel. I plumed in the inline pump to the fuel can and routed my original fuel line into a jug under the hood. There was a ton of air in my system but after running for about 15 minutes it smoothed out and i was able to make it home. When it first started the mechanical fuel pump was pumping good, but i noticed when i got home it was not pumping much at all. I have never knows a lift pump only to go bad after warming up, so i am thinking I have algae or something in my tank clogging my sock up. Is there anything else that i am missing before I drop the tank?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I would pull the tank and clean everything up. Change the fuel pick up sock in the tank. I just got finished with one this AM. The ACDelco part number for the sock is ACD#TS1012 GM# 25055272 They are available at Autozone. I keep a few in stock as I have encountered this quite a bit in the past few years. They are 30 + they seen a lot of fuel. Several I removed the socks were covered in beige paint from inside old metal fuel cans. Most are completely black and clogged with crud from the years of use. Change the lift pump also it is a less then $50. item. Do as you wish. Good Luck.
 

parlusk

Member
277
3
18
Location
southwest virginia
I just seen your reply on my other post. Thanks for the advice. I am thinking about adding that electric fuel pump to the system. I may or may not bypass the lift pump. It will be a while before I get on this task. Its about 9 degrees outside, and the lift at my buddies shop is going to be tied up for a while.
 

Gradient

New member
28
0
1
Location
San Diego/CA
This may be my problem as well, I was having fuel issues with a leaky lift pump. I just replaced it with an inline electric pump but the engine still surges and bogs. I noticed that when I'm going down hill, or right after I brake hard, 3-5 seconds later I get a nice turbo surge. I believe it could be one of two problems, the sock or the pump is just pushing too much fuel and the siphon from the tank can't keep up (this could be related to a clogged sock, or a design issue). Anyway, looks like I'll be pulling the tank now.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
490
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I always recommend just starting from scratch. Pull your tank, inspect/replace the sock, replace all your flex lines, change/upgrade the filter, install a new AC Delco pump, and enjoy your many years of reliable service. It's the only way to eliminate the starting and running issues with the old fuel system. This of course is assuming your IP works fine.
 

Gunnermac

Chief
383
107
43
Location
Athens Ga.
We do restorations on MV's and 50"s and 60's civilian vehicles. Skinny is right, one of the first things we do is pull the tank, clean it with something called Wild Dog (takes about 4 or 5 days) coat the tank, then clean the entire fuel system. Most times we will replace the fuel pump or add an electric inline pump and replace all filters and flex lines. It's a pain, but will save much cursing and money in the long run.

Mac
 

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
890
1,332
93
Location
Rhein-Main Area, Germany
There is no need for an electric lift pump.
Design issues are preprogrammed!
Usually, the largest source of error with CUCV's is when people start to be innovative.
I replaced my old lift pump with a new AC Delco ....... let me say, it works.

OMG, I already hear me how cucvrus......
but he's right
 

Gradient

New member
28
0
1
Location
San Diego/CA
There is no need for an electric lift pump.

Design issues are preprogrammed!
Usually, the largest source of error with CUCV's is when people start to be innovative.
I replaced my old lift pump with a new AC Delco ....... let me say, it works.

OMG, I already hear me how cucvrus......
but he's right


Well, it's not an electric lift pump, it's an electric inline pump. Sometimes new tech is better than old and I believe this is the case here. The electric pumps make it painless to prime the fuel system, especially after changing a filter. They start pumping before the engine starts turning therefore are self priming, I can tell you my hard starts instantly vanished when I installed it.

= BETTER than mechanical lift pump.

I'm convinced my problem is in the fuel tank and I'll know for sure this weekend when I pull it.
 
Last edited:

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
890
1,332
93
Location
Rhein-Main Area, Germany
I'm not a mechanic.
I replaced my mechanical Lift pump and the old style fuel filter.
I pulled the pink and green wire from the IP and have the fuel line bleeded, without any problems!
It cost's me 2x15 sec. cranking time.
Put the wires back on the IP, on the first try, it fired right up!
You need no magic and also no electric lift pump.
 

Gradient

New member
28
0
1
Location
San Diego/CA
I'm not a mechanic.
I replaced my mechanical Lift pump and the old style fuel filter.
I pulled the pink and green wire from the IP and have the fuel line bleeded, without any problems!
It cost's me 2x15 sec. cranking time.

Put the wires back on the IP, on the first try, it fired right up!
Mine primes while I'm waiting for the glow plugs. No work. Easy.

You need no magic and also no electric lift pump.
Again, it's not an "electric LIFT pump," it's an inline push pump.

It's not magic. To each his own though.
 

Gradient

New member
28
0
1
Location
San Diego/CA
We do restorations on MV's and 50"s and 60's civilian vehicles. Skinny is right, one of the first things we do is pull the tank, clean it with something called Wild Dog (takes about 4 or 5 days) coat the tank, then clean the entire fuel system.
Mac
I just tried search for "Wild Dog" but can't seem to find it, could you show me where to get it?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
IMHO A CUCV fuel tank on any model is so inexpensive new that if rust inside the tank is an issue. Just forget all the witch hazel formulas and replace the fuel tank with a brand new one. If it is rusty it wont be long until it has a rust hole/leak. Easy thing is to replace it while you have it out. I have been replacing every tank I remove that has a hint of rust. Easier and less expensive now then to have to do the job again. Because an M1008/M1028 the only correct way to do it is with the bed unbolted. Other opinions may vary. But for less then $250. you can replace the fuel tank,straps,fuel sock and sending unit. And it is a great time to clean up a few things on the underside and apply a good undercoating to preserve the vehicle for years.
 

Gradient

New member
28
0
1
Location
San Diego/CA
IMHO A CUCV fuel tank on any model is so inexpensive new that if rust inside the tank is an issue. Just forget all the witch hazel formulas and replace the fuel tank with a brand new one. If it is rusty it wont be long until it has a rust hole/leak. Easy thing is to replace it while you have it out. I have been replacing every tank I remove that has a hint of rust. Easier and less expensive now then to have to do the job again. Because an M1008/M1028 the only correct way to do it is with the bed unbolted. Other opinions may vary. But for less then $250. you can replace the fuel tank,straps,fuel sock and sending unit. And it is a great time to clean up a few things on the underside and apply a good undercoating to preserve the vehicle for years.
Yeah, after doing a bit more research I decided that if it's rusted I'm just going to replace it with an MST plastic one. Now I need to figure out if it can be converted to an in-tank fuel pump...
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
(IN tank fuel pump)? Now I am lost. You do know these do not have in tank fuel pumps? That is just an antiquated electric sending unit and pick up tube with a sock filter on the end. This chase has lead in several directions. Good Luck with your project/redesign.
Should I check anything else before I drop my fuel tank? Interesting.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Yeah, after doing a bit more research I decided that if it's rusted I'm just going to replace it with an MST plastic one. Now I need to figure out if it can be converted to an in-tank fuel pump...

Sounds like a big project. Maybe a tank from a later year would fit? One that was made for an in-tank pump? But then the sending unit might not be compatible with your gauge. Could be a can of worms.
 

Tanaga

Member
50
0
6
Location
Palmer, AK
IMHO A CUCV fuel tank on any model is so inexpensive new that if rust inside the tank is an issue. Just forget all the witch hazel formulas and replace the fuel tank with a brand new one. If it is rusty it wont be long until it has a rust hole/leak. Easy thing is to replace it while you have it out. I have been replacing every tank I remove that has a hint of rust. Easier and less expensive now then to have to do the job again. Because an M1008/M1028 the only correct way to do it is with the bed unbolted. Other opinions may vary. But for less then $250. you can replace the fuel tank,straps,fuel sock and sending unit. And it is a great time to clean up a few things on the underside and apply a good undercoating to preserve the vehicle for years.
Who do you purchase your new fuel tanks and sending units from? I would like to replace mine too but would like to replace with stock or close to it.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Who do you purchase your new fuel tanks and sending units from? I would like to replace mine too but would like to replace with stock or close to it.
If you are asking me? I would say I would buy from Autozone. But that's just me. I have nothing but good luck and get great discounts and warranties from Autozone. And I am not a paid spokesman for them. Just another satisfied customer. I have bought no fewer than 10 fuel tanks for CUCV's from them with out any issues. And most I bought were made in Canada just like the OEM tanks were. Do as you want. But that is MHO.
 
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