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Show us your Military Trailers

Tinstar

Super Moderator
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Edmond, Oklahoma
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1992 M101A2

Received new paint (bow corners need paint. Ran out of paint. Finish next week).
New bearings/races
New master cylinder and cap
New Wheel cylinders
Brake and drum job.
New trailer power cord
NOS canvas chain protectors.
Two new aluminum military taillights
Tons of TLC

Installed two NOS brand new in box CUCV wheels.
I know their shiny but will leave as is.

New factory GM lug nuts (only 4 on each wheel in pics). All on now.

Trailer was in great shape, just dirty. No heavy rust. Just the usual surface stuff in spots.

Tows like a champ and the surge brakes are flawless.
Couldn't be happier.

Retained the original unit markings as a tribute.
 
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Tinstar

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I think there is a contest that exists to see who can smash the cylinder cap the most.

Was a mother to get off.
Nothing a hammer and punch, followed by big channel locks couldn't handle.

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Drums had never been turned and saw almost zero wear.
Two screws holding drum on required an air hammer to get out.
Rusted drums were also a mother to get off.
Once off and cleaned up and turned. Followed by total brake job, they act normal now.

Tip: apply anti-seize to screws.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
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1992 M101A2

Received new paint (bow corners need paint. Ran out of paint. Finish next week).
New bearings/races
New master cylinder and cap
New Wheel cylinders
Brake and drum job.
New trailer power cord
NOS canvas chain protectors.
Two new aluminum military taillights
Tons of TLC

Installed two NOS brand new in box CUCV wheels.
I know their shiny but will leave as is.

New factory GM lug nuts (only 4 on each wheel in pics). All on now.

Trailer was in great shape, just dirty. No heavy rust. Just the usual surface stuff in spots.

Tows like a champ and the surge brakes are flawless.
Couldn't be happier.

Retained the original unit markings as a tribute.
Here is a nice tip on keeping that cover nice and tight and puddle free. Get a 4'x8'x1/4" thick sheet of plywood and attach it to the top of the bows using rounded head flat or crosstip screws and then put the cover on. I got one this way from the Air Force at Peoria, IL. It looks very nice with no dips in the cover between the bows.
 

acon

New member
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Location
Ma
I put three straps of webbing with snaps under the front bow and rear bow pulled tight on my m105 and have only one spot that puddles a tiny bit before it dumps over the edge. Reason I didn't do plywood was because it's longer than 8' on a m105. Plus it makes it super easy to remove if I want the entire bed available. I just unsnap the webbing and wrap all the bows up tight with it so they aren't falling all over the place while trying to carry them all at one time.
 
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gottaluvit

Well-known member
I will try that on my M105s. Just yesterday I put a new green tarp on one and then put the leaky cover on, but it will still puddle, and leak. I wish I had thought of, or heard of your technique beforehand. Better late than never. I may still get away with it without removing the cover and tarp. It's only gonna store firewood but I like dry firewood.
 

acon

New member
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0
0
Location
Ma
I use mine for everything. But in the winter I will fill it with fire wood stacked and leave it in the driveway, with gas being so cheap right now, I may not burn much firewood this winter. I have a little "build page" that is fairly up to date. If I haven't put the webbing pictures on it then I will tomorrow when I get home from work. I just unrolled half of it and did one down the middle and one on each edge. I measured perfectly so the front or back hoop can be interchangeable because I take everything off and use it like a landscape trailer, utility trailer, lumber trailer......tool hauler,camping trailer, help friends move trailer......I made it as easy to use as possible and everything comes off frequently and back on. I also cut one cover down to use with just the bows in the stake pockets.
 

Tinstar

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Here is a nice tip on keeping that cover nice and tight and puddle free. Get a 4'x8'x1/4" thick sheet of plywood and attach it to the top of the bows using rounded head flat or crosstip screws and then put the cover on. I got one this way from the Air Force at Peoria, IL. It looks very nice with no dips in the cover between the bows.
My plan is to take paracord (US issue, not China junk) and run it front to back, about 7 inches apart, to create support in between bows.
Looping around each bow.
It's more than strong enough to handle any rain or snow.
Plus its a lot lighter and easier to deal with than plywood.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
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Location
IN
Here is my M1101 trailer and S780 shelter, camper project. The shelter sets 4" above the floor, giving room for tent poles, etc.

This trailer didn't have a straight side to it but most the the bent part was cut off. The first picture is a repaired corner.

I measured the wheel wells on the shelter and fit the cut trailer to it. I had 6 pieces of galvanized steel caps made and fit them once the trailer cuts were right. Last was cutting the tailgate down to hold the poles in the (bed) space.

There will be additional structure attached to the axle to lengthen this rig front and back.

I'm hoping to make a large tent type cover that "pop's up", with sleeping on top.
 

Attachments

gottaluvit

Well-known member
I use mine for everything. But in the winter I will fill it with fire wood stacked and leave it in the driveway, with gas being so cheap right now, I may not burn much firewood this winter. I have a little "build page" that is fairly up to date. If I haven't put the webbing pictures on it then I will tomorrow when I get home from work. I just unrolled half of it and did one down the middle and one on each edge. I measured perfectly so the front or back hoop can be interchangeable because I take everything off and use it like a landscape trailer, utility trailer, lumber trailer......tool hauler,camping trailer, help friends move trailer......I made it as easy to use as possible and everything comes off frequently and back on. I also cut one cover down to use with just the bows in the stake pockets.
I plan on filling all of my M105s, both M101s and one M1082 with wood for easy removal of the first one to go empty and simply back another full one in near my basement door. Wood is my primary heat in a 1850s house with no wall insulation. Uses a lot of fuel.
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Central NY
Sankey Wide Track.

Finally gotten around to putting the new cover on my Sankey 'Wide Track'. Had to remake the 'toggles' since they don't come with the canvas.

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gottaluvit

Well-known member
Used my M1082 today to haul some wood (that will soon get cut up for firewood) from a tree that needed taken down so it didn't fall into either of the houses it was between. None of the huge logs got loaded as it was all done by hand. Will be hauling them soon with a drop gate/ramp civy trailer so they can get rolled in. No lifting equipment.

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Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,288
1,773
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
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M101A2

Installed clamp to hold brake Lockout pin.
3/8-4 1/2" Aircraft push pin.

Will not fall out and I will be using very small cable to secure it so it doesn't ever leave the trailer.
Cable install Saturday


Update:
Installed retaining cable on lockout pin today
Enough room to use it and short enough to prevent dragging in the slim chance it isn't in holder
 
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