Slantback M1043A2

[OBX]

May want to look inside the dog house, looks like something is melting in there, nice truck!
It looks like the previous owner did not install the turbo floor conversion pieces, that is why it looks so tight, post pics of the doghouse, what little I can see looks like someone possibly converted a NA dog house.
Welcome to SS

Great photo analysis Mogman, you are spot on as usual! Casual observers, myself included, missed the obvious. New owners of Humvees, again, myself included, have so much to learn from information found on SS, and I can’t thank you experienced members enough for graciously sharing your wealth of knowledge.

 

[NDT]

Wheels had the CTIS which I'll probably resurrect as that's a lovely option I've been missing since my off-road racing time in a previous life.

. View attachment 874109

That tire is a blowout waiting to happen.

 

[badger_610889]

Thanks guys,
Mogman: good eyes... but that's rat poop!
There was a rat nest right on the turbo manifold. Lots of rat stuff dripped from there, and it was cooked when I took possession of the truck.
I hope these critters didn't chew anything.

I believe the dog house is the right one - for a turbo. There's about 1.5" of gap just by taking a rough measurement.

Also from what I see on the M1123 the dog house is very slim, so assuming that the M1043 used similar dog houses than the M1123 then a N/A doghouse would not host the turbo setup (by large)

Now I could be wrong and maybe the 1123 has a particularly slim doghouse and there is not much difference between the older 1043 doghouse and the newer turbo that came with M11xx ?
I'll post pics when I get back to it.

 

[Mogman]

I think all the turbo dog houses have the same foot print, but I have seen a couple different profiles near the top, I can see where your doghouse is wider than the floor opening, when the proper floor panels are installed that hole where the radio power cable is coming through (arrow) will be covered up and the actual hole will be much larger.
I don't remember where the second two pictures came from, not my conversion but pretty clear what is involved.

 

[Gcelevator]

I think all the turbo dog houses have the same foot print, but I have seen a couple different profiles near the top, I can see where your doghouse is wider than the floor opening, when the proper floor panels are installed that hole where the radio power cable is coming through (arrow) will be covered up and the actual hole will be much larger.
I don't remember where the second two pictures came from, not my conversion but pretty clear what is involved.

Funny, i believe it is my conversion.

 

[badger_610889]

Here a pic of the doghouse.

from what I found on the web, it's likely a turbo doghouse and it matches the footprint of the floor relatively well - not sure what the expectation would be, though.

While looking into this I realized it has no insulation. So I just ordered the metal/glass wood type insulation that I will install.
Thanks for getting my attention to it.

 

[Mogman]

Ahh, looks like possibly an aftermarket doghouse, looks OK though!

 

[badger_610889]

You could well be right: searching the web for "hmmvw turbo conversion doghouse", that's precisely the style of doghouses that's offered. It's made of fiberglass and has no insulation. Therefore the pretty loud noise inside!
Once I receive the insulation shell, I'll see how much clearance there is between the shell and the doghouse and may install some sound proofing to reduce the loud pitch of the engine in the cockpit.

Also the engine is a swap, not a conversion. It's a GEP turbo diesel which I suspect was installed with the tranny at once.

Fun project this truck, I love it !

 

[Mogman]

You could well be right: searching the web for "hmmvw turbo conversion doghouse", that's precisely the style of doghouses that's offered. It's made of fiberglass and has no insulation. Therefore the pretty loud noise inside!
Once I receive the insulation shell, I'll see how much clearance there is between the shell and the doghouse and may install some sound proofing to reduce the loud pitch of the engine in the cockpit.

Also the engine is a swap, not a conversion. It's a GEP turbo diesel which I suspect was installed with the tranny at once.

Fun project this truck, I love it !

It should have the same dimensions so the factory insulation should work, what is the rivets holding in? that is what usually holds the insulation.

 

[badger_610889]

There are bits of black rubber foam. There was clearly some form of insulation at some point but not anymore. I don't know if it was phonic or thermal, probably both.

 

[Mogman]

That looks like what is on the bell housing, as far as I know there is no "conversion" doghouse, just NA and turbo doghouses. (and for some reason I have seen two different turbo dog houses, no idea why but again the foot print looks to be the same) the body tubs are pretty much the same but for the addition of the turbo floor pieces which are factory "conversion" pieces used in the production of turbo trucks.

If it were me I would install the floor pieces, will make working on it in the future a little easier and not very expensive.

EDIT, sorry I only read the text in your first post, you should have 2.73:1 diffs and already had a 4 speed, still better than the 3.07:1 gears in the turbo trucks IMHO.

I will bet the slant back is significantly better aerodynamically than my Helmet Top

Curios when you get the chance and if you want to, take it to a cat scale and see what the gross and each axle weight is.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

You could well be right: searching the web for "hmmvw turbo conversion doghouse", that's precisely the style of doghouses that's offered. It's made of fiberglass and has no insulation. Therefore the pretty loud noise inside!
Once I receive the insulation shell, I'll see how much clearance there is between the shell and the doghouse and may install some sound proofing to reduce the loud pitch of the engine in the cockpit.

Also the engine is a swap, not a conversion. It's a GEP turbo diesel which I suspect was installed with the tranny at once.

Fun project this truck, I love it !

The engine is a “

That looks like what is on the bell housing, as far as I know there is no "conversion" doghouse, just NA and turbo doghouses. (and for some reason I have seen two different turbo dog houses, no idea why but again the foot print looks to be the same) the body tubs are pretty much the same but for the addition of the turbo floor pieces which are factory "conversion" pieces used in the production of turbo trucks.

If it were me I would install the floor pieces, will make working on it in the future a little easier and not very expensive.

EDIT, sorry I only read the text in your first post, you should have 2.73:1 diffs and already had a 4 speed, still better than the 3.07:1 gears in the turbo trucks IMHO.

I will bet the slant back is significantly better aerodynamically than my Helmet Top

Curios when you get the chance and if you want to, take it to a cat scale and see what the gross and each axle weight is.

M1114 Turbo engine cover is different than ECV
That truck is an A2 so it’s got 2:73 gearing.
ECV run 3:08

 

[badger_610889]

Thanks guys. I will get a bit of work on the A2 this weekend and will post findings with photos.
I'm sure I'll have tons of questions !

 

[badger_610889]

Another bad news which may explain some charge issues (voltage fluctuations at idle)





These are expensive modules so I'll check if it's electronically good in which case I'll attempt a repair, but it will likely need to be replaced

Also the delay module for the fan is missing, that one is a relatively cheap and easy fix. I just ordered a new one.

 

[Mogman]

OUCH!

 

[Coug]

Another bad news which may explain some charge issues (voltage fluctuations at idle)

View attachment 874404

View attachment 874405

These are expensive modules so I'll check if it's electronically good in which case I'll attempt a repair, but it will likely need to be replaced

Also the delay module for the fan is missing, that one is a relatively cheap and easy fix. I just ordered a new one.

Test procedure for the 200 amp generator/regulator

https://ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

 

[badger_610889]

In spite of the many large NO STEP labels everywhere in the engine compartment that seem overkill at first, I realize that may not be enough and some idiots may have stepped on the regulator

Another issue I spotted (I'm not officially working on this truck yet) is that connectors 315 A and B in the doghouse aren't connecting to anything.


the TM mentions them as fan cut off switch and mostly shows illustration of the other side of the loom on top of the engine.
these 2 connectors seem to have to be connected on the throttle position sensor that I haven't localized yet... will need some investigation.

 

[86humv]

Doors look legit. Skins are composite with a relatively thick steel plate riveted on them. Windows have obviously been recently replaced and aren't bullet proof - which I obviously not need and I will consider removing the steel plate because 1. X doors look auper cool and 2 the plan is to replace the springs to improve the ride and off road abilities which starts by saving weight by the bucket.

I'd be happy to know if someone has experience removing the steel plates - like there would be some adhesive that would make it a mess or worse: damage the composite panel?

View attachment 874110

Doors look legit. Skins are composite with a relatively thick steel plate riveted on them. Windows have obviously been recently replaced and aren't bullet proof - which I obviously not need and I will consider removing the steel plate because 1. X doors look auper cool and 2 the plan is to replace the springs to improve the ride and off road abilities which starts by saving weight by the bucket.

I'd be happy to know if someone has experience removing the steel plates - like there would be some adhesive that would make it a mess or worse: damage the composite panel?

View attachment 874110

If the plates are original...doors have a 2 layer plate...outside is hard steel, and inside plate is soft steel.....just drill out rivets...remove plates...install some rivets in holes.

 

[badger_610889]

If the plates are original...doors have a 2 layer plate...outside is hard steel, and inside plate is soft steel.....just drill out rivets...remove plates...install some rivets in holes.

Thanks. I scratched a corner and it looks like they have two plates of steel but I'm not totally sure - there are like 4 layers of paint on this truck.
I'm relatively confident about removing the rivets by drilling their head, I'm only worried that there would be some sort of glue between the still and composite material that would give a nasty finish.
but after all, I could start on the ugliest door and see how that goes. Worst case I put the plates back with new rivets.
The plan is to repaint the whole humvee once I'm done with it's sanitation anyway.

 

[badger_610889]

It comes out better on another door. The outside plate is thicker and hard, the second plate is thin and pretty soft as the knife scratches the surface easily.


Is the thickness ratio consistent? Wondering if these are original doors and maybe I should leave them as they are, if they are aftermarket I'll try to remove the plates as I like the look of the X doors.



Now there would be the safety issue but I don't imagine a humvee involved in a high speed accident where pieces of other vehicles would come through the doors.